Does this look like it needs to be replaced? It there chance of failure here?
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Gray Amick
Chapin, SC
'77 NACRA 5.2
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Mast step
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You are kidding right? Replace it... And if you still have the mast base that the 1977 5.2 came with you'll have to replace that and the bolt as well since the only balls available are the large ones.
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They are supposed to be round. I don't see any cracking, they usually wear down so far and then crack in half.
1.5 inch ball
older boats used 1.25 inch which are not available as stated above,
http://www.murrays.com/mm…_Code=C-MR&Store_Code=MS
http://www.murrays.com/mm…-8002&Category_Code=C-MR
edited by: skarr1, Mar 23, 2010 - 05:52 PM -
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Gray,
That ball has served its useful life and should be replaced. It's toast. Need reassurance, take a knife and carve a little piece off the side. If it comes off like wax you're o.k. If it comes of chalky or flakey, replace it. The piece will crumble due to UV rot. It's Delrin, btw.
Smaller balls are available from McMaster-Carr. You will have to drill and tap it yourself, which is really easy.
Steve, I still owe you a step ball.
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Philip
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If, by some chance yours is the smaller ball, and if McMaster-Carr gives you the run around, go here:
http://cicball.thomasnet.…balls/item-1289?&seo=110
If you don't like that source do a search for:
"acetal ball 1 1/4""
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Philip
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a 1 1/4" ball is alot easier and cheaper than changing out the whole thing, plus it's not really needed.
K.I.S.S.
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Philip
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I agree, if you can find the small ball, buy a couple of them and replace as they wear out. $160 worth of balls should keep you sailing till the next century.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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I have taken on of the larger balls, used a rasp and then sand paper to shape it to size. It was what was available at the time. I wanted to sail that day and a friend had a new one in his spare part box. It took less than 10 minutes and as far as I know it is still on the 5.8 that I sold about 6 years ago. -
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Do you use the ball just as shown in the picture? My (1984-1.5")is getting a bit worn on the top. When I removed it, it seems to have a threaded steel insert. Is it OK to just drill & tap? How far do you drill, 1/2 way, or would 3/4 be better.
I can see the threads just holding the ball in place, & as long as it was screwed down to the end of the threads, the compression load would be taken by the ball instead of the threads.
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Ed,
"a bit worn on the top" is fine. It's "mating" to the profile of the mast base, which is normal and good. I would drill the same depth as your existing ball as to not change the tuning of the rig, which should be set up as you like. If you must, favor to the more shallow side of the drill depth as appose to the deeper side. Drill it too deep the ball is more prone to split. Don't over-think it.
edited by: mummp, Mar 24, 2010 - 09:15 PM
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Philip
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Thanks Philip. Other than the top, the rest is still "shiny", so I think I'll leave it as is for now. Good advice to find parts that "are no longer available."
Gray, the only downside to your setup is that it doesn't appear to be the captive ball system. The newer ones have two holes drilled through the base fitting. A pin is inserted into these holes, & engages below the centreline of the ball, thereby locking the mast base to the ball.
This lessens the chance of the base popping off while raising or lowering the mast. The manual is pretty explicit about keeping a foot firmly on the mast base to hold things in place while raising/lowering the mast. I think Andrew also ties a short piece of line around the mast & DS.
If you step your mast once a season it's probably no biggie, but if you are trailering each day, the $160 might be money well spent.
I'm a newbie also, so take my advice in context. Some of the more experienced guys can tell you if the captive system is worth the extra cost.
I've gone over my 5.7 pretty closely, so far the spreadsheet says I've spent an extra $400 on overhaul. I guess that really isn't to bad for a 1984 boat, since a good chunk of it was to convert to roller furling.
edited by: Edchris177, Mar 25, 2010 - 08:04 AM
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Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
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Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
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Correct, i hate attaching anything to my dolphin striker (as its such a critical part) but I do run a strong (but short) line that is looped around the DS, through a small cleat on my mast. maybe i will start to use that black fairlead that does nothing on my beam
this will prevent my mast base from flying around if i break anything, both during stepping or if i de-mast while sailing.
I feel this has saved my main sail from tearing (after the mast comes down during a de-masting). I have seen many sails rip (on the edge of a beam) when the masts come down...
here is a picture, but I didnt use the line this time so i drew it on to see its location..
PS this same line is used to secure my mast to the front beam during driving home
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ha, i don't cleat the blue line, it has to have slack in it to rotate.. i just tie a fig8 knot in the line
that cleat has no purpose but to hold my jib halyard and forestay when mast is down, not worth drilling out the rivets to change it ...
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Just curious Andrew, what do the two nuts on the DS do? On the NACRA the threads go up to the beam, thereby allowing you to turn the nuts up/down & preload the beam.
Is yours one tube inside another, that allows turning one to lengthen/shorten the assembly?
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
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Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Philip said we all need to grow a pair so i made sure i always have 2 nuts on my boat at all time?
actually i have no idea, i have never had to mess with my DS. my friend with the same exact cat had some issues (bar broke off at the beam) but i never saw anything disassembled -
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FYI to all pre-1983 Nacra 5.2 owners, I just got a 1.25' mast ball from Mark at The Cat House (www.cathouse1.com). Evidently they are available again.
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Gray Amick
Chapin, SC
'77 NACRA 5.2
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