All,

I purchased a Harken roller furling rig from Murrays. I also bought a new Jib with a UV strip.

I have installed every thing but have not taken it out as yet.

Somehow, the geometry and set up feels wrong to me. One issue is that the drum does not seem to offer the mechanical advantage needed and the nylon string it comes with is pathetic.(I might change the cord to something more robust) Anyone have experience adding a furler to this boat?

Did you shorten the fore stay?


If the furling line is to large, the drum will fill up with line before the jib is fully unfurled.
larger photo
http://www.thebeachcats.c…963&g2_imageViewsIndex=1



edited by: skarr1, Jun 21, 2009 - 06:46 PM

No set it up as per the instructions. Your set up Pretty much looks like mine. Forestay came with the kit. Mine however pulls the foil back while your's seems level.

How tight is your standing rigging?

Did you compare the length of the new furler and stay with the old stay?



Phillip Mumm's 5.8na





edited by: skarr1, Jun 21, 2009 - 07:49 PM

Thanks gentlemen. As ususal you have been most helpful. I did not compare the length because this was to have been an out of the box deal. However my shrouds are set to the lowest hole. Looks like the mast is coming down this weekend. I'M LOOKING AT THIS PIC AND THE FORESTAY IS TOO LONG. Problem is that I'm so damned busy right now I'm doing this in three-four hour intervals.

Thinking about just ripping it all off and putting the old rig back on. I don't have time for a geometry experiment this summer if I want to get onto the water. The wife snarled when I told her we might be down for another weekend.

If you have 10 hole adjusters under the foil, you could make them shorter. I had mine at 8 holes till I ordered the correct length fore stay. If you subtract the length of the furler and the swivel from the length of your old fore stay, you can order one that length. If with your old fore stay installed , your shrouds were in the bottom hole,(mast tilled back as far as possible) you might want to order an even shorter fore stay. This should allow you more mast fore and aft adjustment.

its worth the effort~!!!! YOu can do it!

Good points. My shrouds were never in the bottom holes with the old rig so I know the mast is raked back too far. THing to do is what I should have thought to do which is to compare the length of the old to the new forestay and go from there. Well .. I know what I am doing with my half day friday coming up! I've dropped too much cash on this project to abandon it so thanks for the pep talk Andrew!

New traveler is on by the way. It came mounted on the loading clip, so after grinding off the burrs and sanding the track, she slid right on.

What is a good line for the furler? I see Larry doesn't like the original nylon that it came with, and I just broke the nylon in my H18 jib furler. Anyone have suggestions for a good thin line to use?

--
Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
--

yes, i use Robline dingy control lines. it is a 2mm spectra line with a 4mm jacket (or something very close to that).

the spectra is very strong and the jacket allows for locking down in a cleat (spectra is to slick to lock down in most cases).

I think the cost was .25/foot at NewJSI.com

Larry,
The difference between a stock NA forestay without furling, and a stock furling NA forestay is 7 inches. You must have a forestay that is 7 inches shorter. You can't use the old forestay.

--
Philip
--

I used the new one. I think they sent me one that is too long. I will check however. It may also be a function of the hole adjusters for the foil.

Might add that the instructions that came with the rig were crap. So thanks for the measurement specs.

what line do you use in your furler? Looks quite thick in the picture?

lawrencer2003

what line do you use in your furler? Looks quite thick in the picture?

and why do you have a turning (cheek) block on your foil? I dont think there is any mechanical advantage to a 90% turn?

andrewscott

lawrencer2003

what line do you use in your furler? Looks quite thick in the picture?

and why do you have a turning (cheek) block on your foil? I dont think there is any mechanical advantage to a 90% turn?

if you are refering to the picture of my boat and Steve's boat, it has the turning block for a couple of reasons.
1) the line enters/exits the drum more cleanly. (there is no farelead)
2)provides a cleaner box area between the foil and front beam (nice when rigging the boat or climbing back on after capsize
3) stays out of the way of the over rotator (forward mounted)
4) I like it that way!

--
Philip
--

Larry,
The 10 hole adjuster to connect the foil to the bridal tang is the correct length. You should have this set up starting from the foil.
a) furling drum (connected directly to rear hole on foil, most modern foils have two holes to connect, some older ones have one.)
b) 10 hole adjuster.
c) forestay.
d) swivel (which is connected directly to forestay with 1/4" pin).
e) tang plate (part #56-9649)
f) shackle

All pieces are connected with 1/4" pins except for the tang plate to shackle. The reason you use the rear hole on the foil is because sometimes the drum will not clear the foil dolphin post using the forward hole.

I would measure the old and new forestay. The difference should be at least 5 inches (2.5 inches for the drum and 2.5 inches for the swivel), the tang plate adds 2 inches (total 7 inches). Murrays should have provided you with some means to connect the swivel to the shackle and properly compensated for the means to connected said items.

--
Philip
--

All is as you describe save the measuring. (and the packing slip said 5.8na) I think I'll take her out this weekend for a shakedown before I make any moves. I still think the string that came with the rig is awful but I'll live with it. She was class legal because the guy I bought her from was a hard core racer.

Dear Larry,
Lay out the two forestays and compare them. Therein you shall find the answer.

--
Philip
--

mummp

andrewscott

lawrencer2003

what line do you use in your furler? Looks quite thick in the picture?

and why do you have a turning (cheek) block on your foil? I dont think there is any mechanical advantage to a 90% turn?

if you are refering to the picture of my boat and Steve's boat, it has the turning block for a couple of reasons.
1) the line enters/exits the drum more cleanly. (there is no farelead)
2)provides a cleaner box area between the foil and front beam (nice when rigging the boat or climbing back on after capsize
3) stays out of the way of the over rotator (forward mounted)
4) I like it that way!

All good reasons!

Philip,

I will take the mast down and check lengths.

Measure from the point of contact with the mast correct?

No point in going out without knowing. I've been around this boat, my last boat and mechanical stuff long enough to know when something aint right.

Thanks

Larry

You can pull the boat over on its side, and get the measurement.

I put her over on her side today and guess what? The forestay on the furling kit is exactly the same length as my normal forestay. Dropped the mast and reinstalled all the old gear. Sending it back. I won't try this again till next spring. So few sailing days this summer!

Larry,
I would ask them to cross ship you the proper replacement forestay. It really is worth the effort to get the furler set up properly. Stay the course.

--
Philip
--