Hi Guys,
Along the lines of the topic "how much wind is too much" any advice on how to depower a hobie 16 once you find yourself out in it after it picks up? I was single handing last weekend in ~10-15 mph and stopped in a protected cove to explain why I use wind and not gasoline to some ladies in a canoe, when I got back in it there were serious (for me) gusts to 15+. I ran across and gybed in lee of some trees, but was nearly blown over reaching back to dock. Not good since I didn't unwrap my new ballast bag yet. As a newbie probably shouldn't have gone out but you know how it is...
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eddiecat
Nacra 5.0 (destroyed in storm)
Hobie 16 (restored)
Nacra 5.5- amalgam "Franken Cat"
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depower Hobie 16
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Apr 14, 2009
- Last visit: Jun 12, 2020
- Posts: 62
Posted: Jun 29, 2009 - 02:44 PM
- Rank: Master Chief
- Registered: Jun 20, 2006
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- Posts: 7089
Posted: Jun 29, 2009 - 02:49 PM
Yes, the H16 is built with de-powering in mind.
I will let the guys who currently own one to go into detail but the main things that are universal are
1. if you have a furling jib, furl it
2. travel out... NOT sheet out. Sheeting out can make a bigger pocket to "catch" air in... you want a flat (tight) mainsail. you can keep it tight and travel out to reduce power.
3. older Hobie's had grommets in the sail to "reef" up the bottom panel (reef means curl / roll up) and there was a 2nd bead on the halyard so it can be lowered.
I will let the guys who currently own one to go into detail but the main things that are universal are
1. if you have a furling jib, furl it
2. travel out... NOT sheet out. Sheeting out can make a bigger pocket to "catch" air in... you want a flat (tight) mainsail. you can keep it tight and travel out to reduce power.
3. older Hobie's had grommets in the sail to "reef" up the bottom panel (reef means curl / roll up) and there was a 2nd bead on the halyard so it can be lowered.