Rigging help - Jib block/cleat and sidestay/forestay tension

Hi,

I have a Mystere 5.5 with a few questions.
My crew has a real hard time uncleating the jib sheet, not sure if it is our technique or equipment related. See attached picture of harken block/cleat we have
Also, I just noticed that with no sails, and no tension on haylards, the mast does not want to rotate more than 80 degrees, the side stays are preventing it from turning any further, does this mean I have too much tension on my stays?


http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures&g2_itemId=63151
Thanks in advance,

Pierre-André
http://



edited by: rafale55, Jul 03, 2009 - 12:08 PM
on the jib sheet blocks experiment with the variable angle cleat. the angle for solo is different as the helm is sitting further aft than where crew would be

it looks like the angle on that block has been set for easy release when flicking the sheet sitting aft, helm operating from around the rear beam

with crew the angle needs to be different as they are sitting much further forward

on mast rotation it does sound as though the rig tension is too tight. try raking the mast aft 1 hole on the forestay adjuster and see if that increases rotatable to 90degrees or so

while i can rotate my mast more than 90 degrees by hand it won't rotate freely enough on it's own with out a positive rotation line. i would only need 110degrees for extended downwind sailing, which i don't have in our small lake

positive rotation is also seems like an extra hassle as it has to be set and un-set each time or it can really screw up your lower mark roundings
Hello Pierre-André.

I too have a Mystere 5.5.

my jib sheets were frozen (could not adjust the angle) and they were set very low (perfect for on the wire, but impossible for crew to un-cleat). I had to learn / teach crew how to FLICK the sheet to uncleat. it is all about technique (unless you can adjust the angle...).

In your jib block picture, you are missing the 4 way adjuster system. with out it, you can not move the blocks inward (for upwind/close hauled) and outward for downwind?
It looks like you also have a barber hauler ring in the picture that is not being used.,..

If you need the info on how it should be rigged...here is a link to a thread that talks about how to rig the 4way and has many pics...


If you need more info. i will post it for you.
http://www.catsailor.com/…lat&Number=177106&page=1


Your mast.... hmmmmm i would double check all your trap wires and shackles (on top of your mast)... i really dont think you could over tighten your side stays (and have a lose front stay/halyard) to the point you cant turn 90*. If you over tighten the halyard... you can lose the ability to rotate... but i doubt at 80*.. you would notice the tightness at any movement. but i could be wrong.. please keep us posted on what you find.

PS do you have anything between the mast base and the ball (on the beam)? I use an orange juice bottle top with some silicone spray in there to avoid wear and tear and to act as a bearing...



edited by: andrewscott, Jul 07, 2009 - 10:13 AM
The jib clew block surely looks way undersized to me, what do you think Andrew?
well it surly looks to small for the line thats going through it, and it doesn't need a long shackle on it (extra gear/weight/something to really hurt you when you get smacked with a flapping jib)...

I would at the least upgrade those blocks to something that you can tie the pig tail to (with a Becket).

BUT that block looks like the ronstan bearingless... and if it is, its rated to 350lbs... i would GUESS that could hold the jib... but i wouldn't be surprised to see it break under real stress.

I use the same size block on my tornado spinnaker (both tack and halyard) and they hold up very well (as long as they can rotate)...

i am not sure which sail has more force on it ... a 5.5 (or 6.0) jib on a reach.. or a spin pointing high....
Hi guys,

thank you very much for your advice.

I have bought new blocks for the jib sheets 2636 40 mm Carbo Block and changed the sheet to 3/8 inch, this should make it easier to uncleat.

I will also look into the 4 way adjuster system that Andrew suggested, very good suggestion, I have a hard time figuring out how to rig this 4 way adjuster system from the pictures, is there just one bleu rope and a block/cleat on each side?

Lastly, if you have more details regarding the mast "bearing" at the base of the mast.

Thanks a lot,

Pierre-André
4 way adjuster - please read the thread i posted (link) it should answer all your questions and there are lots of images on that thread (most you must download).

the mast bearing: the stock mast ball has a little Stainless Steel "nipple". there is also a Stainless Steel plate in the stock mast end (cup). both SS parts are there to avoid corrosion and wear but most of us put a plastic "shim" between them to help even more. I have seen several Mystere mast balls that were in poor condition. Mine is so so.

As i mentioned above i use an OJ or gator aid lid. i place it on the ball as i am stepping the mast.

Feel free to PM me any other questions (or post here)