My 5.2 rudders swim around in the castings. What's the best way to fix this? I also have the old tiller crossbar that rotates fairly freely, so its next to impossible to turn and extend or compress the hiking stick. Between the crossbar connections and the rudder play, I have very sloppy steering. Thanks for any tips.

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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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make some plastic shims/washers from plastic jar lids for the rudder slop and use some thin stainless steel wire to lockwire the floating crossbar connectors together at the correct angle. i used about 2feet/60cm per side

Or you can buy nylon shims from your local ace hardware store, dunno about that floating crossbar, all crossbars must rotate freely at the tiller connections, check out item # 01-2061 on the murrays.com website, something like that maybe??? can't get a fracking image on this webpage, fracking irritating


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TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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try to wedge in some clear CD's

It sounds like you are missing 2 very small but important parts. There should be a bushing that goes on the inside of the rudder casting arm that the bolt will go through when you attach the tiller bar. This bushing allows you to tighten the nut properly and will stop the spin. The bushing is actually just a small piece of aluminum tubing that will just fit inside of the tiller arm and just big enough to allow the bolt to go through. This will take care of that problem.

yurdle

My 5.2 rudders swim around in the castings. What's the best way to fix this? I also have the old tiller crossbar that rotates fairly freely, so its next to impossible to turn and extend or compress the hiking stick. Between the crossbar connections and the rudder play, I have very sloppy steering. Thanks for any tips.

Hullflyer is spot on as for the castings. For the tiller/crossbar, do yourself a favor, and purchase part #56-5516. You will wish you had done it along time ago and will realize the cost is well justified. Make sure your yoke assembly for the hotstick is tensioned properly, and finally, check your casting/tiller arm rivots. These routinely become loose and need to be drilled out and replace.

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Philip
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turbohobo

all crossbars must rotate freely at the tiller connections,

Sorry, but I must respectfully disagree, you DO NOT want the crossbar rotating.

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Philip
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turbohobo

Or you can buy nylon shims from your local ace hardware store, dunno about that floating crossbar, all crossbars must rotate freely at the tiller connections, check out item # 01-2061 on the murrays.com website, something like that maybe??? can't get a fracking image on this webpage, fracking irritating

I'll try and look for some nylon shims. That sounds like the best idea for tightening it up w/out killing its ability to rotate.

I think you're talking about the hiking stick connection being able to rotate...my problem is that the tiller crossbar itself spins, which is a pain.

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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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HULLFLYER

It sounds like you are missing 2 very small but important parts. There should be a bushing that goes on the inside of the rudder casting arm that the bolt will go through when you attach the tiller bar. This bushing allows you to tighten the nut properly and will stop the spin. The bushing is actually just a small piece of aluminum tubing that will just fit inside of the tiller arm and just big enough to allow the bolt to go through. This will take care of that problem.

So it's a tube that the horizontal bolt runs through that allows me to tighten the hell out the bolts without crushing the casting/tiller arms? Sounds good if i've got that right.

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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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mummp

Hullflyer is spot on as for the castings. For the tiller/crossbar, do yourself a favor, and purchase part #56-5516. You will wish you had done it along time ago and will realize the cost is well justified. Make sure your yoke assembly for the hotstick is tensioned properly, and finally, check your casting/tiller arm rivots. These routinely become loose and need to be drilled out and replace.

I've seen that part you refer to in the past, but I just now noticed that the two brackets are welded together. I couldn't ever figure out how it kept the bar from spinning. $51 is a bit rich for me, but I'll see if I can't make something similar.

Thanks for all the help everyone, I'll see if I can't get some of this done this week and let you know how it works.

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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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That is correct, if you download the manual you will read where they refer to the bushings. This will correct your problem for about $2.

yurdle

HULLFLYER

It sounds like you are missing 2 very small but important parts. There should be a bushing that goes on the inside of the rudder casting arm that the bolt will go through when you attach the tiller bar. This bushing allows you to tighten the nut properly and will stop the spin. The bushing is actually just a small piece of aluminum tubing that will just fit inside of the tiller arm and just big enough to allow the bolt to go through. This will take care of that problem.

So it's a tube that the horizontal bolt runs through that allows me to tighten the hell out the bolts without crushing the casting/tiller arms? Sounds good if i've got that right.

Yep..I had the bushings in there already, the connections just hadn't been tightened in quite some time. So, just tightening the bolts worked great. Thanks.

My pintles are loose in the gudgeons. I have almost as much play there as I do with the rudders in the castings. I've looked as close as I can w/out removing the pintles, and it doesn't look like they're too worn. Is this a common issue? I'm thinking of buying a slightly larger round aluminum bar and cutting and drilling it to fit.

The rivets on the bars in the castings are all tight, thanks for the heads up on that.

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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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