Trying to determine how the rudder mechanisms function on my new-to-me 91 Mystere 5.0. In the half-way down position they are free to kick up. But in the full down and latched position, are these designed to release on impact with the bottom? They don't release with the force that I am willing to put on them so I'm trying to determine if they don't and shouldn't, or if they should and maybe the mechanism needs a little adjusting or lubrication etc. I have pictures in the photo album section under Beachcat Technical Help/Pictures for help with Mystere 5.0 (haven't figured out how to attach them here yet).

--
Steve - Texas Gulf Coast

91 Mystere 5.0 (sold)
04 Nacra 570 (sold)
08 Hobie Wave
00 Taipan 4.9
--

Here is a link that should get you there faster.

http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures&g2_itemId=72288

--
Steve - Texas Gulf Coast

91 Mystere 5.0 (sold)
04 Nacra 570 (sold)
08 Hobie Wave
00 Taipan 4.9
--

yes they need lubrication. i spray mine every weekend when i go out. all you need to do is spray the black rubber part (that grabs) with a squirt of cheap silicone lube. without the lube.. they will stick and can easly break the casting.

The castings are crap and often develpe stress fractures. i purchased a new set of upper castings from mystere in canada (they still have a school and sell some parts). it is very questionable if they were actually new, but regardless they broke within a year (granted i sail about 120 days a year). the screw ajduster (rake adjuster) ripped in when i was trying to disingage the rudders (to set in the up/stored possition).

also there is a delron screw underneath the lower casting that is supposed to controll how much forse is needed to pop up the rudders. these screws often seize and the head may break durring rotation.. if you can get a few spares proir to adjustment its not a bad idea. also use a very large screwdriver or even a file to turm the screw to decrease the chance of the head breaking off.

chances are you just need to lube your rubber part and all will be fine.

OK BAD NEWS after looking at your pics.. you dont have the rubber part, you have the older aluminum parts. Try silicone (everywhere) and see if that helps (almost doubt it)...

then try to adjust the screw in the bottom casting (if there is one). if not.. i would suggest 2 things... contact mystere and get a new lower casting for each side, or consider changing out to a nacra rudder system

Quote

I have pictures in the photo album section under Beachcat Technical Help/Pictures for help with Mystere 5.0 (haven't figured out how to attach them here yet).

after uploading them to the gallery (or any other website)... right click (in IE)/properties and copy the url of the image or copy image location (in Firefox).

then back in this window click on the image link below and paste in the image URL.

Andrew, I do recall seeing an adjustment screw under the bottom of the casting as you mentioned and thanks for the warning about the potential for breaking it. I think I will try the lubrication option first and see if it free's up (maybe I'll get lucky). Thanks for the input and for the tip on getting the pictures into the posting. As I start getting her ready for the first trip to the lake I will be posting a number of questions.




--
Steve - Texas Gulf Coast

91 Mystere 5.0 (sold)
04 Nacra 570 (sold)
08 Hobie Wave
00 Taipan 4.9
--

fun2themax

As I start getting her ready for the first trip to the lake I will be posting a number of questions.

Glad to help, my rate is 1 cheeseburger or rummmy per answer :)

so far you owe me 5

try a little p b blaster on the screws and let them sit a minute, you can get some wicked electrolosis when stainless is threaded to aluminum...use the "slow hand"...

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
--

andrewscott

Glad to help, my rate is 1 cheeseburger or rummmy per answer :)

LOL, if you got that rate you would weigh 400 pounds and be really drunk!

Now if you only got paid for good answers....

--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

How To Create Your Signature

How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
--

sailor jerry....?

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
--

Quote

you can get some wicked electrolosis when stainless is threaded to aluminum...

allways a good idea on aluminum in stainless or similar,
but this screw is delron (just like the hobies have to adjust the release tension)

Quote

LOL, if you got that rate you would weigh 400 pounds and be really drunk!

who says i am not?

Quote

Now if you only got paid for good answers....

ok... now that hurts Damon... :p

There were several changes to the rudders systems since 91. They changed the part that grabs the upper casting from metal to Delron and they changed the placement of the holes in the blades. Both changes can be fitted to older systems. Call Mystere(get the info from Andrew) and order new adjustment screws, springs, and the part that grabs. You may have to drill out the Delron adjustment screws(not hard to do).
To change the holes on the blades remove the Delron inserts and fill with Epoxy/micro ballon mix. Then find someone with new blades to get the hole placement and redrill. Drill a pilot hole to make sure you have it right. The hole placement is the change that really made the difference in how the rudder system works.

École de voile Sansoucy
150, 27e avenue Pointe-Calumet
J0N 1G1
(450) 472-8042"

info@ecoledevoilesansoucy.com

Jeff, we just got a new 6.0 (purchased and delivered from michigan) on the beach. our good friend Jon (he and Rocco ran the mystere school here back in the day)... we need to get all the mysteres out for a group picture some day soon., maybe the mini-macho in 2 weeks?? ! :) would be a good time for camping too.

I talked to the wife. If the weather looks good(so sick of this 30-40 sh@!) we will be there.
What is the spreader rake on the new boat? I looks a little much for a mystere.

Thats great!..
i know he reduced the rake and tightened his wires but i really dont know where its at...

Jeff-
We met at the Sail for Cancer last year. The diamonds on the 6.0 were a little loose and the mast still had tons of prebend, so I kicked the spreaders forward a few turns (now both have 9 counted threads exposed) and tensioned the diamonds about the same as Catley's 6 meter, even though I know he's not running a sailcraft extrusion, I needed a reference point somewhere.

She's only been out twice, but the boat performs very well on all points of sail (ask Catley :). Any tips you have are greatly welcomed.

/end threadjack.

Topic: +1 for lube and spring tension adjustment. On the older castings even 1/2 turn will make all the difference. Just went through this excercise last weekend.

Jon,
If the weather is good I will make over next weekend. If you like we can look at where the holes are drilled on the blades.
To measure the rake place a straight edge across the spreaders and measure the distance between the straight edge and the mast at the point the straight edge crosses the mast. Mine is about 2.5 inches but that depends on how full your main is. The more rake the more your mast will bend when you downhaul or sheet in. Good for full sail, bad for flat sail. To much rake and you loose to much mast support. Our masts are pretty flexxy. I would not reccomend rake less than 2 inches since the mast could invert in a good blow.
Note. Measure the distance from spreader tip to mast, Mystere was notorious for not having the spreader attacments centered. You may need an extra turn on one side or the other to have them equal.

I'll get out a tape measure and straight edge this weekend. My sail is pretty full and is the origional North square top mylar main. Thanks for excellent advice Jeff. Hope to see you on the 28th.

With your boat in the area we'll have enough 6.0's for a basketball team.

i have 1 & 3/4" rake on mine...

i thought it was to much rake

has never inverted

maybe i will ask you to take a look when you are here Jeff, get you and catman to debate it... :)

Yours is a 5.5. Same mast setup as a 6.0 except they took a foot off the top. Because of that and a smaller main your don't get the loads a 6.0 has so you are OK as long as your diamonds are set correctly(cranked).
What is Mike's setup?

i dont think they are overly tight. i look forward to your opinion next week.

Quote

What is Mike's setup?

TO FAST! he needs to depower, and drag a damn anchor!

ps he has a VERY VERY VERY (get it) stiff tornado extrusion. he has issues getting it to bend but he still is way to fast on it.



edited by: andrewscott, Mar 18, 2010 - 04:57 PM

OK, I'm back trying to complete preparations on my 91 Mystere 5.0 (after a two month distraction). The delron adjusting screws turn freely and lubrication and tension adjustment got one rudder working fine. The other rudder I had to change out the spring to a lighter version to get it to release. Now the question is how much spring tension, how much force should it take to make them release. Don't want them to release under normal operation but also don't won't to tear anything up if a hit something or run aground. Any thoughts or tips on how tight to set the rudder release point would be appreciated. Link to pics of the rudder mechanisms is below. Thanks.

http://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=pictures&g2_itemId=72288

--
Steve - Texas Gulf Coast

91 Mystere 5.0 (sold)
04 Nacra 570 (sold)
08 Hobie Wave
00 Taipan 4.9
--

the proper calibration for rudder release requires special equipment:

Items needed:
boat
trailer
foot

the proper technique is to put the crossbar, and rudders on the boat when its on the trailer (or beachwheels can work but a trailer is a flat surface and you don't have to worry about your boat tipping fore or aft).

lock both rudders down and use your foot to gently sweep through the rudder... at what point does it break away? If you broke your foot.. they are to tight, if your shoe flew off as you swept through, your to loose....

really you want about 15-20ftp (footpounds) of pressure to release them. to lose and they will kick up when you are sailing fast (20ish).. to tight and they don't kick when they should, risking your transoms. so firm but not hard pressure should be about right.

dont forget after you adjust the tension screw to make sure they are still in the correct rake angle (u may need to re-set the rake adjuster screw to correct lee/weather helm)



edited by: andrewscott, May 18, 2010 - 11:06 AM