Anyone know how to rig the up and down pulleys on the rudder system. It does not seem to be in the manuel.

Well if Manuel doesn't know no one does.

It's so much easier to show than to tell and it's been a couple seasons since I've really had to look at it so i'd have to take a look at mine again before I tried to describe it.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

Ill take some pics for you tonight.

I have a new (to me) Prindle 18. I'm so close to sailing it I could explode at any time. I think I understand how the rudders are tied in, but I (hope to soon) trailer everywhere...do you have to take everything apart each time you tow the boat? It looks like there's no positive way to keep the rudders off the pavement sooner or later but to untie, unbolt, and remove them each time. Is that right?

--
Repairable P18
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I would take the rudders off when towing, even if they don't fall, they would vibrate and bounce, stressing the transom.

Will someone look at this and confirm I am not leading B24 astray?

I should add my lines are kind of thick, and don't move past the tiller screw very well. It was also very difficult to get them onto the three pullies in the picture on the upper left.

Next time, I would get some thinner, low stretch line. Someone else can chime in on a line recommendation. The line here is 3/16" (5mm) that comes with the Saltydog Prindle 18 cord kit http://www.saltydogmarine…ath=421&products_id=3667.

Frankly replacing the rudder lines sucks, be patient, have a beer.



edited by: kgatesman, Mar 31, 2010 - 08:19 AM

I just noted Saltydog has increased their rudder line from 3/16" to 1/4" since last year when I bought mine. The Saltydog kit is a deal if you have to replace everything (like I did), but the line is not very fancy. Sta-set would be an upgrade.

I think your pics are right on the uphaul goes down and around so it can also pullup and and release the lock-down pin and the downhaul just goes down down around the bottom bolt as it only has to pull the locking pin into place.

I think you line is exactly the same as mine and I remember it taking a fair bit of finessing and cussing to get where I wanted it.

CAN I STRESS HERE!!
I have tried rigging these with a cheaper line.
DON'T DO IT
It needs to be high quality LOW stretch line.

I can't imagine a bigger line working don't know how they can go to 1/4. The holes are only so big.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

pirateboy27

I have a new (to me) Prindle 18. I'm so close to sailing it I could explode at any time. I think I understand how the rudders are tied in, but I (hope to soon) trailer everywhere...do you have to take everything apart each time you tow the boat? It looks like there's no positive way to keep the rudders off the pavement sooner or later but to untie, unbolt, and remove them each time. Is that right?

There are a couple way you can handle rudders for trailering.

If you have some sort of rear mast rack or holder and you mast is not tied to rear beam like mine you could leave the crossbar and casting mounted and just remove the rudders. You can do this by removing the one bolt the rudders pivot on. give yourself enough slack in your ruddeer lines to allow you to push the knots out the holes and untie them. Be sure to retie a figure 8 stop knot after you remove the so you don't have to redo your rudder lines in the cast as that would really suck. Then reverse for putting them back on. I did this for a while but I didn't care for it.

Now I leave the entire assembly as one piece but with rudders raised as high as I can I remove the entire rudder pin on one side and pull the casting out. I fold that rudder in where it hinges at the crossbar so it is parallel with the rear beam. If you are careful it will be supported on the rear of the hull while you remove the pin on the other side and fold it in. Then I tie some line around middle wrap a canvas tarp around it and throw it in my catbox all as one piece.

I have also seen someone towing with rudders on but secured with a ratcheting tie down strap that went from the rear beam around the underside or the rudder and back up to the beam taking all the weight and holding it in the up position. This was kind of rudimentary buy looked like it would work and I figured if you cut the legs off an old pair of jeans and sewed the bottom shut and made them like a sleave the you slide onto the bottom of the rudders then have some strapping sewn into the top that you could use to secure it in a similar way it might work even better. I have yet to experiment with this but anything to make setup and take down quick is a plus to me.



edited by: Quarath, Mar 31, 2010 - 01:28 PM

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

I remove the entire rudder pin on one side and pull the casting out. [/quote]

I love this site--Thanks for the input , guys! Q; do you have some odd kind of cotter pin holding the rudder pivot pin in place? The one on my boat is a standard cotter key, and it looks like it would take a while to get it out.

BTW Q I looked at your profile...MAN do you have a clean lookin old boat! The 18 I have is in great shape, too. It's been in covered storage for a few years and not sailed too often before that I think. I took the sails to a sail loft for a once over, mainly because the jib zipper was frozen, but they called and said only a few stitches were needed and one jib batten was broke. $200.00 and I have almost new sails!

--
Repairable P18
--

I'm dragging the boat over to the house this weekend for me and a bud to do the sail hoist and rig tune thing. I think my rudder lines look just like the pics, but I'll sure check. Is Sta-set the line I should get to replace the junk thats on there? Anything better or is that plenty good? I dont need stainlesskevlarium, but I would like to know I'm good for a few seasons. Thanks in advance for all the help!

--
Repairable P18
--

I leave mine on. Been doing it that way since '95.
First with my P18, then with my P19. But have
recently changed out my rudder system for the
N20 Gen 3 system. Will sail it for the first time
with the new rudders in a couple of weeks...got
to let the water temp get above 70f first ;)

Somewhere on this site people chat Dynema and other types of high tech line.

I tend to go with sta-set for halyards and sheets because it is easy on the hands, low stretch enough me, and not expensive. It would not be suitable for trampoline lines, batten ties, rudder pulls, and other cases where you want really thin and/or near zero stretch. Milwaukee Rigging has good prices on Sta-set.

If you have to replace everything, Saltydogs deal can't be beat.

pirateboy27

I remove the entire rudder pin on one side and pull the casting out.

I love this site--Thanks for the input , guys! Q; do you have some odd kind of cotter pin holding the rudder pivot pin in place? The one on my boat is a standard cotter key, and it looks like it would take a while to get it out.

BTW Q I looked at your profile...MAN do you have a clean lookin old boat! The 18 I have is in great shape, too. It's been in covered storage for a few years and not sailed too often before that I think. I took the sails to a sail loft for a once over, mainly because the jib zipper was frozen, but they called and said only a few stitches were needed and one jib batten was broke. $200.00 and I have almost new sails!

--
captainjon
-- [/quote]

I love this site--Thanks for the input , guys! Q; do you have some odd kind of cotter pin holding the rudder pivot pin in place? The one on my boat is a standard cotter key, and it looks like it would take a while to get it out.

BTW Q I looked at your profile...MAN do you have a clean lookin old boat! The 18 I have is in great shape, too. It's been in covered storage for a few years and not sailed too often before that I think. I took the sails to a sail loft for a once over, mainly because the jib zipper was frozen, but they called and said only a few stitches were needed and one jib batten was broke. $200.00 and I have almost new sails![/quote]

Currently I use



however when on the water I push pin all the way in to the large rounded end not just to the notch. When I have the rudder assembly off I put the pins back in the stern mounts upside down so the permanent ring on the hinge pins is on the top so it can't accidentally fall out on the road. I then use the above pin in the bottom.

I would like to try



instead.

On my profile if you are referring the picture of the P18 side view.



That's not really my boat it's kgatesman's. However mine could be it's twin so I photshopped him out of the picture lol.



edited by: Quarath, Apr 01, 2010 - 03:48 PM

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

I don't mind, the boat is very lovely, even with out me. The sails went to Sailcare for cleaning, re-resining and repairs over the winter, they look even better now.
Since last year I have repaired or replaced all the wearing parts. It is nice as a 28 year old boat with original sails, hulls and crossbars can be.



edited by: kgatesman, Apr 01, 2010 - 06:30 PM

kgatesman

I don't mind, the boat is very lovely, even with out me. The sails went to Sailcare for cleaning, re-resining and repairs over the winter, they look even better now.
Since last year I have repaired or replaced all the wearing parts. It is nice as a 28 year old boat with original sails, hulls and crossbars can be.edited by: kgatesman, Apr 01, 2010 - 06:30 PM

How much did that cost I really need to get that done to mine



edited by: Quarath, Apr 02, 2010 - 10:38 AM

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

Cleaning and re-resining was $150.
The zipper was only $50!
I had a lot of repair work done too, popped stitches, shroud chafe, I think they charged $40 an hour for this work.

I can't rave about Sailcare enough, the colors look spectacular, and the sails look like they are a couple years old, not 28.

It takes a long time though, call and find out how long before you send them in. I sent mine in in December and got them back in February, but that is their busy season too.



edited by: kgatesman, Apr 02, 2010 - 03:51 PM

Thanks everyone so much for your help.

kgatesman

Cleaning and re-resining was $150.
The zipper was only $50!
I had a lot of repair work done too, popped stitches, shroud chafe, I think they charged $40 an hour for this work.

I can't rave about Sailcare enough, the colors look spectacular, and the sails look like they are a couple years old, not 28.

It takes a long time though, call and find out how long before you send them in. I sent mine in in December and got them back in February, but that is their busy season too.edited by: kgatesman, Apr 02, 2010 - 03:51 PM

Thanks a Bunch I may have to look into this after this season is done.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

I have a set of Prindle 16 rudders that have a lot of play. The casting has widened, or flared out, I guess from abuse. Now the rudders can wiggle from side to side. I want to bend the casting back to its original shape but I'm afraid to do that for fear of breaking them. Does anybody have any suggestions about how to fix this?

--
AJ Sawyer
Nacra 20
San Diego, CA
--

They sell rudder shims kits, or you can make you own. They are about the size of a 50 cent piece and have a hole in the middle the size of the rudder bolt. Place 2 or 3 on each side of the rudder put the bolt back through and tighten firmly with the rudder in the up position so it will not drop. Now back the nut off just enough so the rudder will drop and then there should be no slop. The easiest way to put the shims in is to take a length of whipping line and thread it through the one side of the rudder casting first coming from the outside then through the shims, then through the hole in the rudder, then through the shims for the other side and finally through the hole on the other side of the casting. Pull the whipping line up from both side and everything should line up. Now put the bolt back through and tighten as I said so the rudder will not drop and then back off just enough for the rudder to fall. Should do the trick.

Sawyeraj

I have a set of Prindle 16 rudders that have a lot of play. The casting has widened, or flared out, I guess from abuse. Now the rudders can wiggle from side to side. I want to bend the casting back to its original shape but I'm afraid to do that for fear of breaking them. Does anybody have any suggestions about how to fix this?

I had the same problem, get a butane torch and heat up the flared out area a bit so it is more likely to bend than break. I don't mean heat to melting or anything like that just warm it up I used a rubber mallot and tapped on it a bit or you could maybe even uses a vise.

The shim kits are nice also but what you describe seems more than they alone would fix as was mine. I have since bought 2 used casting off the classifieds here that I will start to get all the parts for to fit as and brand new down the road. New ones are $125 at murrays but if you watch you can get em used a lot cheaper. I got one all put together with line and the tiller arm for $50 from Pete Begle at Big Bear Lake, CA. And I just picked up 2 castings only is great shape for $30 each.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

If you do as I said in the above post and after you have finished that, take a wooden clamp or c clamp and pull it back into shape. I don't think I would ever use any form of heat on the casting made out of aluminum. I am guessing your boat is probably mid 80's which would make the casting about 25 years old. I also forgot to mention, I start from the tiller ext connection and make sure that it is snug, then I go to the tiller connector end and snug them up then I go to the rudder and casting as I stated and you will see a noticable difference when steering the boat. When all of the slop is out of the steering the boat will respond quickly and tacking will become quicker and smoother.

hey guys, I am looking for some prindle rudders, anyone knows of any for sale?

Have a pair. Email@ pbegle@charter.net Pete