To keep things simple, I have the standard jib system.



Can someone enlighten me where the optimal position is depending on course, like forward on running downwind and aft on going to weather?

I played around with it, but wasn't able to notice much difference in either position.

Thanks,
Dan

When they are aft, you are pulling more on the foot than the leach. This let the leach open, de-powering the sail.

See this Pic

P18-2 and P19 Tuning Guide in pdf format

YMMV of course.

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When they are aft, you are pulling more on the foot than the leach. This let the leach open, de-powering the sail.

Without a way to move the jib pulley/cleat assembly inboard or outboard, you have no way to control the slot
created by the jib, thus no way to adjust the leech slot, and no way to power up/down the jib. I would suggest reinstalling the 4-way jib control system or copying the P18 classic setup.

By the way. . . whats the orange thingy across the front of the tramp??



edited by: ButchG, May 09, 2010 - 08:18 PM

Thanks. I think the Tuning Guide answers the question.

The thingy is an extendable righting pole. Let me know if you want to know more and why I think righting poles suck... In the meantime I have a righting bag. :)

Several reasons not to use the 4 way system: I don't have it; the boat was parted out and I had to get many parts, most from the guys on this forum. The aft forward adjustment is more than what some other sailboats have, and the thing is already fast enough, and then I often have crew that have never been on a sailboat before, so I really want to keep things simple.

Dan

My 5.8 only has the aft forward adjustment. Once you have cleated the jib, pulling the the opposite jib sheet tight will pull the clew inboard.

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Can someone enlighten me where the optimal position is depending on course, like forward on running downwind and aft on going to weather

the avg forward/aft position should typically give you a sheeting angle that cuts the jib in 1/2 (follow the jib sheet when sheeted. it should run up to the middle of the sail). I would try moving the car forward going downwind to induce a bigger pocket.. but depends on the cut of the jib if it will help or not

by sliding forward or aft you pull more on the foot or leach of the sail. this will have only minor effect in most situations and i probably would set it and forget it.

I have asked others oldtimers about sheeting on the lazy side (opposite jib sheet tight ) as suggested above, no racer i know would ever use this technique as it will mis-shape the sail. i know when i have my lazy side accidentally created i go slower


I WANT TO KNOW WHY YOU HATE RIGHTING POLES

Andrew, Steve speaks from experience, not oldtimer folklore. I agree with him. You can get the shape nice using this technique with out the 4-way.

Generally speaking, the 4-way does give you unlimited jib shape control, but . . . Very little is gained on the North American versions of the Nacras, and not that much is gained on the remaining older version Nacras, except for a small gain going to weather on the race course. That is why you see most of them removed.

The forward, aft position is important and you can feel the effects immediately.

Carry on . . .

--
Philip
--

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Andrew, Steve speaks from experience, not oldtimer folklore. I agree with him. You can get the shape nice using this technique with out the 4-way.

ok, cool. doesnt work well on my cat

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except for a small gain going to weather on the race course.

significant gains on my cat in pointing and sweet spot

For recreational sailing, I would leave them either all the way forward, or no more than half way back. Usually I will set it half way between the half way point in the tract a forward and leave it there.

For racing, the only time I would bring them all the way back like that would be sailing upwind in heavy air.

--
John Schwartz
Ventura, CA
--

On the 5.8, the 4-way may not be that big of deal but on the 8.5' wide boats like the 6.0 and 5.5, it's a must to point.

On the 5.5SL, I found thet the fore and aft position was a little forward than center. Never changed that for up or downwind. The inboard and outboard position changed with wind. Light to double trap, 4-6 inches out from hiking strap and then out from there to open the slot.

Downwind, all out and use the barber hauler.

Just my openion.

--
Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
--

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I WANT TO KNOW WHY YOU HATE RIGHTING POLES

I want to know why you're yelling at me ;)

The righting pole occupies space on the tramp.
Getting it on the other side is cumbersome--I once punched a hole into the bow section throwing it to the other side. This is admittedly very poor style, and dangerous too, it could hit someone on the head.
Two lines have to be attached to the stern and bow to stabilize the extended pole.
After the boat has been rightened, the line clipped to the bow is nearly impossible to remove.
All lines will inevitably be entangled.

Dan