The tramp is unbelievably crowded. Is there anything to do with the jib leads. The boat is not easily moved from trailer to water and vice versa ( i need a cat trax) Geez it is heavy or I am too old. The rudder system could be better. I don't understand the mast rotator. Yes I know what is does I just need to know hwne and how to use it.
I have owned two h16 and a p16 so maybe the go fasts were too much. But the dang thing would move.

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Nacra 5.2
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Yep it's a little crowded. #1 improvment, move the jib wires and leads under the tramp. Look at this photo here:

http://radesignz.com/graphics/sailing/08/redo/IMG_2582.jpg

There are slits in his tramp so only about 1 foot of the jib wire and leads are showing. I did something similar but I put 2 grommets in my tramp (you have to remove the tramp to do this) for the line to come through. You also need to put strap eyes on the beams under the tramp track. I will take pics of mine this weekend.

It is a big beast (380 lbs)! But is still relatively light compared to other 17 ft boats. Actually the H16 isn't much lighter but there are more places to hold onto it and lift so it's easier to move around. Cat Trax are a good idea.

You probably have the old rudder system without the Pivmatic, pop up option. See a slightly modified version here:
http://radesignz.com/graphics/sailing/08/redo/IMG_2598.jpg

It's pretty simple. Normally you pull on the line and cleat to put the rudders down, if you hit something with the pivmatic system (just a plastic sleeve on the tiller really) it automatically uncleats. When you beach you just uncleat and let the shock cord pop up the rudders (they only usually come up about 2/3 of the way but they move freely). If you want a more positive locked up position use the mod in the pic above. My understanding is the Prindle rudder system is much more finicky. I like the H16 system but it tends to pop up at unoppotune times. This one is really simple but takes some getting used to.

The mast rotator isn't a huge deal, It's used to point the mast into the wind and shape the sail to a more efficient shape . I would just set it and forget it unless you are going downwind for an extended period of time and want more rotation.

But yes, this boat will Haul A$$!! And with a bit of courage (and proper rigging) it can be pushed really hard!





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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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on the jib halyard I have two jam cleats on the mast. One for the main halyard, 1 for the jib halyard and 1? for the downhaul? The thing that throws me off is I have a cleat on the bridle ( not a jam cleat ) Am I missing a jamb cleat on the mast? Thanks for all your help Dave.

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Nacra 5.2
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OK, there should be 2 jam cleats on the mast. One is for the jib halyard (also call the jib downhaul), the other is for the main downhaul.

Here is the best pic I can find for the jib halyard:
http://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=pictures&g2_itemId=35631

Airborne's setup is not stock but it's close. The Factory setup for the jib halyard/downhaul is a 2:1 downhaul. On the front right of the main is a strap eye that you attach a couple of feet of 1/4" or 3/8" line to. On the end of the wire jib halyard should be a block, you put the line thought that block and down to the jam cleat on the front left side of the mast. You then coil the rest of the jib halyard and stow it (in the tramp pocket or on the tramp just behind the mast).

If you have a cleat on the bridle, there could have been a roller furler on the boat at one time. You can also run the line down the jib luff and cleat the jib halyard there if you prefer. They both work, and really you don't need a huge amount of downhaul(uphaul?) on the jib.

Referring to the same pic, you can see the downhaul for the main sail. You don't need a cleat for the main halyard because you have the hook at the top of the mast holding the main up. The line part of the halyard should be coiled and stowed after you raise the sail, the wire part can be attached to the strap eye about 3-4 feet up on the front of the mast.

A block with a becket and 2-3 feet of 1/4" line should be attached to the grommet at the bottom of the main sail luff. The line should be run down from the becket through the cheak block (inside the mast rotator wishbone) and back up through the block over to the right side of the mast. It is then cleated in the jam cleat there. In heavy air you can really reef on this downhaul to flatten your sail and depower. Unfortunately you can only depower so much unless you have swept back spreaders (most 5.2s have straight diamond wire spreaders).

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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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