For the mainsheet system is there any real benefit to spending the extra cash for ratchamatics over just the carbo blocks?
Has anyone used both and can describe the difference in performance?

small gains...
less mass (size, weight). if your on a h16 size is a big deal as a smaller block can sheet tighter (block to block)

less metal (less rust)

automatic ratcheting vs manual engagement of ratchets

is it worth it? was to me... my cat is 500+ lbs. i want to reduce every ounce i can... but its a pretty small difference.

I like the new ronstan blocks too. they are cheaper and have a higher work load (usually) compared to Harkens

andrewscott

I like the new ronstan blocks too. they are cheaper and have a higher work load (usually) compared to Harkens

You have a model number for the ronstan blocks your refering to? I will be using on a Nacra 5.5sl

Andrew,
What did you add to that boat? Stock 5.5 is about 405 lbs.

Quote

What did you add to that boat?

rum.. a lot of rum! :)


Rey brought scales to the causeway a few weeks back.

non-stock gear:
spin/pole & blocks and lines, front tramp, anchor (with chain), tornado sail, 6.0 jib. In my front hatch (hatch added weight too) 2 paddles, bilge pump, tool kit, first aid kit, 2 righting bags (since i can't right it with just 1) with blocks, probably scuba boots and watershoes in the hatch, and it pretty possible i had my radio onboard when we weighed it (as i was trying to get an accurate "underway" weight. heck its possible i had my cooler(s) included)

fa1321

You have a model number for the ronstan blocks your refering to? I will be using on a Nacra 5.5sl

i have 2 friends using them, not 100% sure if this is the block they use but...

RF56331B

http://www.ronstan.us/marine5/product.asp?ProdNo=RF56331B

And you wonder why Darrin passes you on my old boat.

I guess the other concern would be durability the new style carbo sure do not look as tough as the older blocks with the metal sideplates. The main thing would be function though since you are making adjustments to the most of the time I just want smooth & easy control.

beachsailor

And you wonder why Darrin passes you on my old boat.

I still beat him around the island by an hour on friday :)



edited by: andrewscott, Jul 14, 2010 - 11:08 PM

fa1321

I guess the other concern would be durability the new style carbo sure do not look as tough as the older blocks with the metal sideplates.

My blocks are 3 or 4 years old and work perfect. perhaps slightly discolored but thats the only wear they show. i think Harken did lots of R&D before they switched to high impact plastic sides (why is this a critical place for metal?)

Quote

The main thing would be function though since you are making adjustments to the most of the time I just want smooth & easy control.

the function is the same... except on the older version you flip it into ratchet mode.. how often do you turn that on or off?

what adjustments do you make on blocks? i have never adjusted anything on them besides sheeting angle

I just

andrewscott

what adjustments do you make on blocks? i have never adjusted anything on them besides sheeting angle

I am still getting use to my 5.5 I switched over from a H16 so I am not use to the power yet so I tend to get overpower and not able to steer out of it quick enough so I have to pop the sheet and let out then I pull it back in and repeat! lol!!!

fa1321

I am still getting use to my 5.5 I switched over from a H16 so I am not use to the power yet so I tend to get overpower and not able to steer out of it quick enough so I have to pop the sheet and let out then I pull it back in and repeat! lol!!!

ohhh just sheeting adjustments... there would be little change in that regard. perhaps a ftlbs or 2 difference in sheeting but that is not really a factor in my opinion.

are you looking to upgrade or increase purchases (7-1 to a 8-1) ?

I have the old 7:1 that came with it but they seem to stick or just be to hard that last foot or two when sheeting in it takes two hands to pull it I tried soaking them & sailcoat tricks but same problem. I also bought new england Salsa line but still to hard to sheet it. So I was hoping a new 7:1 (triple with single on becket)would work better and if its still tough I could also add an eyestrap above cam & a quad on top for 8:1.



edited by: fa1321, Jul 14, 2010 - 02:13 PM

[/quote] I am not use to the power yet so I tend to get overpower and not able to steer out of it quick enough so I have to pop the sheet and let out then I pull it back in and repeat! lol!!!
[/quote]

Thats because the mast rotator wasnt hooked up. The pocket was huge so your boat heeled more than accelerated in the puffs. We can get it all worked out this weekend. You can give my carbo's a try and see what you think.

Oh yeah I have a plan on the rotator set up! Since we almost sunk her last time I though you might be afraid to get back on a Nacra with me! Lol! I may be stuck out working on my rental property on Saturday but I will try and swing it (late nights all week) You headed to 10 Mile this weekend?



edited by: fa1321, Jul 14, 2010 - 02:25 PM

gotcha.
I think turbo's post will help, but you may still want to upgrade to an 8-1 at some time.

i believe you will be more overpowered without a rotator limiter engaged, but i would be surprised if depowering it makes to great of a difference in the amount of torque needed to sheet in all the way


i wouldn't get another 7-1.... the new blocks do not have any real noticeable benefit (as it's still the same purchase, with the same 10-1 holding power).

Yes sir ill be there!

that kind of stuff happens and the only way to get past it is to jump back on and give it another go. Ill gladly get back on your boat since i know who fixed it and that they used quality materials!

Get that rental stuff done so we can race the P19 and 5.5!

andrewscott

i believe you will be more overpowered without a rotator limiter engaged.

Again, the control here is the clew traveler (outhaul). The 5.5 is boomless and it's an over-rotator, not limiter. Remember, applying mainsheet tension flattens the main on a boomless rig. Downhaul first, then adjust clew traveler, as you have these sheeted on hard the mast rotates aft already. Travel down and maintain mainsheet tension. If you still have alot of draft in your main it is blown, and then using the rotator to limit will help some, but is being used as a crutch for something else (the blown main). It really won't help much with the healing moment.

Your experience with the full range of clew traveler should be measured in a few inches when going to weather.

--
Philip
--

New Rachomatics will help get line out when you are in a bind also. The combination of spinning more easily and the ratcheting turns off when you are letting line out in a hurry so it goes out even quicker.

I have discovered that with my new this season 8:1 Harkens. My old blocks had more resistance when letting line out in a hurry, new one seems like they are sucking the line in with a vacuum. Makes that hull come down quickly when you need it to.

But when the ratchet is engaged has similar feel to my old blocks for holding power.

If you are getting new blocks and sometimes struggle with the loading on the 7:1 changing to the 8:1 would make sense to me. That is what I did. Sure a little more line to deal with, but it was worth it to me.

--
Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
--

I sailed a 5.5SL for 12 years, go 8:1 and use your original block. I even set mine up 9:1 for a while but it took so much line. You?re wasting your money until you at least try it. The boomless rig likes massive amounts of sheet tension.

--
Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
--

nacra55

The boomless rig likes massive amounts of sheet tension.

Sounds like its the nature of beast! I will try the 8:1 setup.

mummp

andrewscott

i believe you will be more overpowered without a rotator limiter engaged.

Again, the control here is the clew traveler (outhaul). The 5.5 is boomless and it's an over-rotator, not limiter. Remember, applying mainsheet tension flattens the main on a boomless rig. Downhaul first, then adjust clew traveler, as you have these sheeted on hard the mast rotates aft already. Travel down and maintain mainsheet tension. If you still have alot of draft in your main it is blown, and then using the rotator to limit will help some, but is being used as a crutch for something else (the blown main). It really won't help much with the healing moment.

Your experience with the full range of clew traveler should be measured in a few inches when going to weather.

Definately more adjustments on this rig I am not use to adjusting so thanks for the info on adjustments to play with.

When we moved from the 16 to the 5.5SL, we were 280lbs and the boat was powered up and overwhelming. I talked to several hotshots at that time and I raked the spreaders back and cranked the diamond wires, but we suffered in light air. We got the boat were we could handle 10-15 mph winds and never looked back. Now with an extra 40lbs on the boat, I would have loved to have had my original settings back but they are long lost. The boat does not like a lot of crew weight and likes the weight forward. If you drag the sterns she?s a dog.

What conditions do you sail in?
Crew weight?
Spreader rake?
Diamond wire tension?


--
Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
--

What conditions do you sail in? In the gulf @ Surfside beach Texas
Crew weight? I am heavy @ 230 and do not have a steady crew.
Spreader rake? Not sure of the exact angle but its raked back a few inches.
Diamond wire tension? They are tight.