nacra 5.8 broken bridle foil

the bridle foil on my nacra 5.8 broke yesterday. i was going over some 4-5 foot breakers with my friend on the wire when the bridle broke. it was a scary moment because i didn't know if the mast will stay up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCWUAhsV4E8.
i found that the spreader wire bracket on one side broke.
http://tinyurl.com/3ahhwwj
if you own a nacra5.8 NA check this bracket.

now i am looking for a new foil or maybe someone has a used one laying around.

bernd n.y. nacra5.8 sc19







edited by: vkm, Jul 19, 2010 - 09:54 PM
Bummer,
I've seen it happen too often, usually something stainless lets go. They are very rare used. I sold the last of two extras I had to Steve. Try placing an ad in the classifieds wanted section.

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Philip
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Well the good news is that no one was hurt. The bad news is that a new one runs almost $300 at Murrays.

Might want to give Performance Cat a call and see if there is any way you can do away with the Bridle Foil completely and just use bridle wires. Probably would involve some repositioning and reinforcing of the bracket but if you have some damage there it could be worth it. I have seen newer 5.8s without the foil.

Regards,
Dave

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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Wolfman
Might want to give Performance Cat a call and see if there is any way you can do away with the Bridle Foil completely and just use bridle wires. . . . I have seen newer 5.8s without the foil.

Dave,
Shite happens!
Doing away with the foil would make it an original 5.8. That would require a new forestay, new jib, and new bridle and related hardware. That would exceed the cost of a new foil. The foiled 5.8 (known as a North American rig) is a great boat, and is deadly on a reach, and downwind. I wouldn't want to give that up. The foil also helps reduce the torsional loads on the bows.

As in newer boats without foils, you might be referring to the 580. It was designed to reach both the recreational market as well as the weekend racer. The newer design provides for the spinnaker package upgrade, and modified the original daggerboards to more recreational friendly centerboards. The elimination of the foil was to allow jib sheeting from the front beam and to allow for the upgrade sale of the spin package.

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Philip
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Hey bernd,
I just looked at your pictures. Most of the hardware including end caps are in good shape. You could easily rebuild that bridle foil with a piece of extrusion. I would call Jack and ask him if he has an extrusion laying around that he is willing to part with for a small fee. I bet he does.

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Philip
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It looks like that fitting failed as a result of crevice corrosion & propagation, you can see corrosion around the spot that failed, leading me to believe it was a hidden problem that could have been there for years.
In the aviation inspection world finding cracks before they lead to component failure literally saves lives. Does anyone use dye penetrate testing, (DPT) a form of non destructive testing to inspect critical parts, & hopefully avoid a catastrophic failure?
Essentially you spray the DP on suspect hi stress areas, leave it for a few seconds, then wipe clean. Next shine a "black light" on the area, or use developer, depending on the kit. Hairline cracks that cannot be seen with the naked eye show up like a lightning bolt. We used a product I believe was called Magnaflux. Others are available at any hot rodding shop or engine rebuilder. They are cheap & easy to use. Avoid aviation specific products, they will cost 10X what an automotive application will.
Another free way is to use magnification with a visual inspection. Buy a cheap jewelers loupe,(an 8X version can be had for $2 at an auto parts store)& go over each part during the off season, make sure you have strong lighting. In a pinch use your binoculars. Turn them around & look through th objective lens. You have to move the ocular lens VERY close to the part, but it will magnify to the same level as the power of the binocular. This won't work to inspect the inside of a radius, as you can't get close enough, but is wonderful for items you can get close to.



edited by: Edchris177, Jul 20, 2010 - 01:20 PM

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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going to get the foil fixed by a guy how fixed me rudder casting. but i have to buy a new spreader rod because the brackets one the end can't by removed.

bernd
QuoteEssentially you spray the DP on suspect hi stress areas, leave it for a few seconds, then wipe clean. Next shine a "black light" on the area, or use developer, depending on the kit. Hairline cracks that cannot be seen with the naked eye show up like a lightning bolt. We used a product I believe was called Magnaflux.


we used this exact method to inspect weapon hangers (to suspend weapons under plane wings) in the navy.

my testing method on my cat is to ignore all signs of ware and sail in 25-30 knot wind. if i feel something may brake... i break it! :) just kidding, of course we should look over the cats often, inspect tangs (bow and stay) for cracks, tighten any shackles WITH A TOOL.

I have found my side stay shackles (i dont use pins/ring dings cause i have my spin blocks attached at the stay tang) will loosen with all the loading/unloading and movement that happens with sailing and tacking
That part had a lot of load on it. Not sure if I'd fix it. One thing I always watch for is folks grabbing the spreader bar when we haul my cat up the beach. I always make sure they grab the underside of the foil.

Gonna check mine tomorrow.