So I'm going to put an inspection port in both of my hulls and I'm not sure which one to get as my hulls have a slight curve on the top and there aren't many Trac 18 cats around.


Any suggestions? I'd like the ports to be larger with cat bag possibilities. I'd even be willing to go up to hatch width with cooler possibilities if such a hatch exists!

Thanks!

Murrays has these

http://www.murrays.com/mm…y_Code=C-P&Store_Code=MS

If you tighten the center line bolts first and let the sealer harden up under the outboard edges they will fit a lot of different contours. I have the 5 inch ports on the stern of my NACRA.



edited by: skarr1, Sep 01, 2010 - 10:19 PM

Thanks for the link... I had been to some of the individual ports but not that Murrays Main Port page with the diagram.

I'll order up a pair of those 5" Contour ports.

Did you use the nylon fasteners?

Thanks!



edited by: lonbordin, Sep 01, 2010 - 11:30 PM

--
LIVE LIFE... Dave Wilcox
Trac 18
Bloomington, IN
--

No, I went to Lowes and bought stainless screws and lock nuts. Over kill but looks good. I also used white plumbers DAP caulk instead of the 5200. Add a little spray foam to keep the lids from sinking. On most cats you don't want to install ports forward of the main beam, the front of the hull will break off!!




edited by: skarr1, Sep 02, 2010 - 06:41 AM

I used the plastic hardware that came with the port. Between the hardware and the sealant I don' think the port is going anywhere. The plastic hardware seemed to do the trick. SS hardware might look nicer, but the clear plastic just blends in with the port.

I would also recommend not installing the ports in front of the front beam. I added ones behind the rear beam to give access to hull repairs I had to do. The contoured Viking ports worked great for me.

--
Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
--

Both of my ports will be between the beams... safety is job number one! :D