So I now have an 18' Prindle, the size is almost intimidating, the walls on the outer hulls are huge. Have started cleanup and she looks good so far, bottoms are sweet, removed old tramp and haver a new one from SLO Sails already. Removed jib blocks off the tramp, have older style Hobie jib blocks on tracks which I will mount on front crossbar giving me a clean tramp. Will also setup a furling jib in place of the complicated jib setup the Prindles use. Thought I would have to replace lines but a suggestion from Pete Begle to drop them in the washing machine sure worked wonders, used bleach to get rid of the algae, thanks Pete.

Will take pics of all upgrades and post in Tech Help Gallery as soon as project is finished, want to get this Prindle sailing before it gets too cold, will keep y'all posted.

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

Caution, moving your jib blocks to the beam might drastically change your sheeting angle. From photos that I have seen the Prindle 18 jib clew extends behind the mast. You might not be able to get enough tension on the foot of the sail.
Of course when you have the furling jib made you can have the foot shorter to fix this.

I am saying this from viewing photos and could be wrong.
I am sure some real Prindle 18 sailor will chime in.

2nd above, if the jib blocks are moved, even a few inches, your ability to trim the jib correctly for a full range of sailing angles will go out the window

you can move the blocks where you want but will then basically need a differently shaped jib. a sail-maker could probably cut your current jib down but this has it's own issues...

Aye. I've had a P18. You can't sheet the jib to the beam. The stock system is fine for jib sheeting. The barberhauler I had (which might be standard?) was horrible...that's what I'd upgrade.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

You think the P18 jib is complex you should see the 4 way setup on my Nacra 5.5sl talk about losing tramp space! You should sail it once with the stock set up before making changes.

you will end up with the blocks on the farthest back setting for best speed anyhoo...the prindle jib is set up almost perfect outa the box.

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
--

There's absolutely no problem moving the jib blocks forward to the main beam. I've done it to two 18's and found no noticable difference side by side with normal P-18. You simple move bridle eyestraps 18" forward (with bar underneath gunwale) and attach longer bridle wires. Cleans up tramp nicely. Pete

If the factory thought that the jib block placement should be on the front crossbar, they would have put it there. The Prindle 18 is almost perfectly balanced as it comes from the factory. I doubt if I would move the bridal wires forward, I believe that the hull is beefed up a bit where the bridal tangs are attached to the hulls from the factory, also moving them forward will change the angle of the luff of the jib. I firmly believe that almost all producion catamarans have went through alot of R&D with true professionals and should remain rigged to the factory specs and setting to maintain the true balance and highest performance.

doesn't the p18 have a 4way jib adjuster system?

if yes... a compromise may be attach the jib blocks to the outer most position (on my boat this would by attaching the jib block onto the track) and remove the 4 way inhaul/outhaul feature.

So you will now have a h18 style adjuster where you can adjust it fore and aft but not in (tramp) and out.

then you can remove the horse (the cable or line that goes port to starboard) and the other lines... now you have a clear deck and you don't have to move your bridal wires, cut your jib, mount blocks on your beam.. etc

There is an aluminum plate under the standard bow tang, but the curved gunwale lip is sufficiently strong enough or 100,000 H-16's couldn't carry their bow tang in the front. The slight luff angle change makes little or no difference as proven by side by side sailing with std boat. The factory was not driven by "ease of use" in the late '70's. The boats that sell today are Hobie Wave, Getaway, or H-18's with wings. A clean tramp for rookie crews to move around on is a hugh plus for keeping new people interested particularly when you add barber haulers and the associated lines (that crews are always sitting on). Pete

Quote

Removed jib blocks off the tramp, have older style Hobie jib blocks on tracks which I will mount on front crossbar giving me a clean tramp.

I would suggest you not do this unless you want to go with a smaller jib. Back in the day we experimented with this and a buch of other stuff and in the end we went back to the original design. They put it there for a reason.



--
John Schwartz
Ventura, CA
--

pbegle

There is an aluminum plate under the standard bow tang, but the curved gunwale lip is sufficiently strong enough or 100,000 H-16's couldn't carry their bow tang in the front. The slight luff angle change makes little or no difference as proven by side by side sailing with std boat. The factory was not driven by "ease of use" in the late '70's. The boats that sell today are Hobie Wave, Getaway, or H-18's with wings. A clean tramp for rookie crews to move around on is a hugh plus for keeping new people interested particularly when you add barber haulers and the associated lines (that crews are always sitting on). Pete

I've heard you say this in the past and I am interested in the idea as well. One question the bridle tangs have one screw that goes into a bar under the lip and another that goes up higher into the deck. What does this other one connect to and when moving them forward what do you connect this second screw to? Do you know the new length needed for the new bridles?

Unless your racing and P18's don't have a huge racing class do they? Then I am more interested in a clean tramp for passengers/crew than I am in performance as any racing I do is purely recreational.

I do however have a hard time when one of my son's who is heavy like me is sailing with me as there is no where for him to sit and I need him as far to the beam as possible to keep the bows down. I am pretty much always single handing with passengers so I am setting the jib myself and they are almost always in the way of the blocks especially if I have more than 1. I love my boat but if I was to look for another I'd look for a clean tramp and wings or something to make it more passenger friendly.

Pete do you have pictures?



edited by: Quarath, Sep 24, 2010 - 02:52 PM

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

skarr1

Is that a Prindle Bob on top? Never seen one of those before.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

Quarath, that's simply a Hobie baby bob with a P on it. The other screw goes thru the deck into an aluminum plate. Just drill another hole in the bar stock, but put washer & nut on because of eventual corrision of stainless/aluminum. Raise mast & use line to connect to forestay to measure new bridle length cause I never wrote it down. P-18 jib is no bigger than H-16 jib so Hobie blocks will work fine (or you can cut them off & use better P-18 blocks) Pete

Quarath, Shoot me an email as I think I have all the parts you need to make the change. Rather than longer bridles, just adding Prindle chain plates to bridle will make them long enough. pbegle@charter.net

Hey Prindle guys, correct me if I'm wrong, but does the mast connect to the mast step link pin sideways? I was looking at my mast base and noticed what seems to be the link pin connector, but it's on the side. The reason I ask is because I'm building my own solo mast step setup similar to what I have on the Technical Gallery but that setup centered around using the forestay to raise the mast. If the Prindle mast is raised sideways, there is no way I could use the forestay to pull the mast up.

Need input, Johhny 5 'alive'



--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

Yes, the mast hinge is on the side, causing the mast to be
turned 90 degrees till raised. I use my forestay to pull my
mast up even so. I guide, my wife cranks the hand winch on
the trailer, pulls the mast right up. Unpin, rotate, secure
and sail away.

ButchG
P19 w/Spi

ButchG

Yes, the mast hinge is on the side, causing the mast to be
turned 90 degrees till raised. I use my forestay to pull my
mast up even so. I guide, my wife cranks the hand winch on
the trailer, pulls the mast right up. Unpin, rotate, secure
and sail away.

ButchG
P19 w/Spi

Why not just use your mainsheet to haul your mast up. I learned this trick from a guy that use to single hand his Prindle 19; here is what I showed me:

Unhook the the starboard crew trap-line and hook the mainsheet to the loop in the wire - using the upper blocks that attach to the boom.

Fasten the other side of the mainsheet to the hook on the trailer where you attache your hull tie down to. I one is nothere as in my case, make one with amsteel line and a few loops.

Raise the mast and when it is up, sheet in on the main sheet making the trap line act as a the securing line. From here I was able to let the mast go and and fasten the forestay to the brindal wires. Unhook rthe mainsheet rigging, take the pin out of the hing and reattache the trap line.

This will also work for taking the mast down, just make sure to revers the mainshhet blocks, that is the boom end attach to the trailer, and the traveler end to the starboard crew trap wire.

And give yoursel about a 30 to 45 degree angle for the trap line to the trailer.



--
John Schwartz
Ventura, CA
--

Quote

There's absolutely no problem moving the jib blocks forward to the main beam. I've done it to two 18's and found no noticable difference side by side with normal P-18. You simple move bridle eyestraps 18" forward (with bar underneath gunwale) and attach longer bridle wires. Cleans up tramp nicely. Pete

--
prindle pete
--

Yes you can raise it with the forestay with the mast sidways. Like they said once you have it secured then unpin and rotate it forward. But I use a winch to raise mine.(No gin pole for now). I connect to one of the skippers trap lines thimble and tie the 2 crew trap lines out to the outside of the front beam to control sway. If you raise it with the trap line then like they said you have the mast secure and can attach the forestay without worry. Once it's attached you can return the trap lines to where they belong. Without a gin pole I usually have to walk the mast up to the rear beam while the wife cranks the winch and hand it off to my son on the tramp.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

I will throw out this word of warning on stepping the mast. Always double check to make sure the step plate is in the right holes. I didn't check it one time and ripped the plate on the mast out. It was a fun repair. But most of all getting the mast down was a pain.

Thanks guys,am working on a solo mast step setup for my P18, will post pics in tech help gallery for future reference. If anyone is interested, Action Sailcraft & Marine out of Andover, KS are selling the Harken hi-load furler & swivel for $235. Dustin, I know you were looking for one depending on price.

Give them a call at 1-800-799-SAIL

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

Or buy it here for $205. ($221 is the lowest price Harken allows vendors to advertise, click on "ADD TO CART" & you will get it for $205)

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|77896|299748|750993&id=1015158

or here for $221
http://www.mauriprosailing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

http://www.apsltd.com/c-1070-smallboatfurlingsystems.aspx

I think Andrew has the top swivel for $50, then just buy the drum for $137, total cost $187.



edited by: Edchris177, Oct 06, 2010 - 05:56 AM

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

That current Sale price on your first link now shows $189 in cart

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

Thanks EC, but... (see next response)



edited by: MN3, Oct 06, 2010 - 05:20 PM

Quote

I think Andrew has the top swivel for $50, then just buy the drum for $137, total cost $187.

Thanks EC, but i gave it away to the guy who lent me the tramp that that assswhole from SLO SAIL AND CANVAS wouldn't return.

I have been messing with the rudder setup on my P18, what a load of cr*p, this has got to be the worst rudder setup ever. I replaced all rudder sheaves, both upper and lower, replaced rudder lines, got everything working sweet, the only irritation is that each blade is swolen where the up-haul line attaches to the blade, will have to fill that with epoxy.

I stepped back to admire my handiwork only to realize how do I trailer this cat with these rudders. It would take way too long to remove and setup rudders each time I go sailing and you can't trailer this cat with the rudders on. I'm going to have to re-think this one, any suggestions?



--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

Turbo, I only own a Nacra 5.7, so I may be so full of it that my eyes should be brown, but...
Does the entire rudder assembly attach via a long pin+ 2 ring dings to hold the pins?
Is it possible to pull the pins & leave the entire rudder assembly intact?
If this is a retarded idea, sorry,my brain is addled & soaked with German beer,(it ids the Canadian Thanksgiving). I hooked my small (120 lb) wife to the wire & went out for the first time in 50 clicks, (30mph) today.
The good news is the wind was from the NW, short fetch, smooth seas.
The bad news is the wind was from the NW, gusty as he.l.l. over the hills, we never dumped, but what a wild ride, I don't think I've ever seen rooster tails that big, especially with my jerry rigged traveler as I'm waiting for MUMMP to dispense with all the naked chicks that flock to his Nacra & look at his pile of old cleats.



edited by: Edchris177, Oct 09, 2010 - 10:56 PM

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Ed, the rudder blade on the Prindles is held by a single bolt with lock-nut, but if you look at the pics at http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures&g2_itemId=72612, you will see that both the up-haul line (on a 2:1 pulley) and the down-haul line are attached to the blade.

I see where you are going with your thought process, I was thinking along similar lines, just do away with the up/down haul lines and use use a quick-release pin in place of that bolt to quickly detach rudder blade. I like this idea for holding the blade up http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures&g2_itemId=67186


, but I would use a rubber stopper on the pin to protect the blade.

I would not use the pin like this http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures&g2_itemId=67190 to lock the blade down, imagine hitting an obstruction at speed.

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

I trailer my p-16 w/rudders attached,I only drive 10 miles to lake on nice smooth road so your situation could be different.raise your rudders all the way up.take a couple of 4 foot piece of 3/8 rope"one for each side" wrap rope around rudder casting. between top of hull&bottom of rudder control arm then arround the back under the rudder snug against casting below lock down bolt.make 2or 3 passes tie off & release rudder so it pinches rope & supports the rudder do this to both sides then center them up& tie tiller stick to where you knot your traveler sheet.I also extend tiller stick up the center of tramp to where my trapeze bungee cord comes thru tramp&secure there as well.
this seems to work really well for me. a picture would clarify above paragraph but my girl has camera for the weekend so i can post pics of my set up later if you want there are other ways as well some guys have a support that attaches tomast & cradles rudders in the up possition.

Thanks for the input Bill, appreciate it, I had a similar idea in mind,constructing a stopper for the blades, problem is that I have to drive 60-90 min to nearest lakes, 3 hr drive to really good one. Am what is termed a trailer sailor because of the huge distances to trailer cat to nearest body of water, can't have that kind of stress on the gudgeons.

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

Turbo, what about removing the entire casting, with the blade still attached, along with the cross tie bar?
Maybe this doesn't work with the Prindle?
Here is my 5.7, I removed the entire assembly as one piece when I bought it, for the trailer home. Both rudders & cross tie are a bit awkward for one, but with a 19' I assume you have a pal, that makes it easy.
Can you pull the mounting pin that goes through the gudgeons? I wouldn't want to pull the bolt through the blade unless I had to. That entails the lines & roller pin.


--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Ed, had already thought of that one, problem is, the Prindle rudder setup is so complicated it would take too long to re-install rudders solo.

Bill (nitrodub) mentioned something though, a cradle or sling that would loop over the mast, effectively capturing the rudders for trailering, will look into that, thanks nitro.

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

Use a small hitch pin to retain casting shaft pin and change to newer Hobie crossbar setup(same as Tornado). Take rudders off in 30 seconds.

i use nitrodubs method...i drive 70 miles each way to the coast with my p-16

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
--

here is how i secure the mast/tiller crossbar...

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
--

here is how i deal with the rigging/jib sheetnote forestay pinned to mast base



edited by: coastrat, Oct 10, 2010 - 03:24 PM

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
--

Thanks for the pics coastrat, appreciate the time spent posting those up on the website, I like that mast holder.

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

the mast holder came with the boat, it's a sweet tool...the boat came with a set of cattrax too...thank you previous owners!



edited by: coastrat, Oct 10, 2010 - 06:57 PM

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
--

, green with envy......

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

I simply remove the long rudders pins the connect them to the hulls like said above and remove the entire rudder setup as one piece. I loosen the the rope keeping the rudder up just bit so the rudders can fold parallel to each other tie a line around em and toss em in the catbox. I can remove or install them in less than 5 minutes even by myself. It really is not that hard. My wife has even beaten me to the last couple times doing by herself or with one of sons. It really is quite easy and not that time consuming at all one you have done it a couple times.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

Quarath

I simply remove the long rudders pins the connect them to the hulls like said above and remove the entire rudder setup as one piece. I loosen the the rope keeping the rudder up just bit so the rudders can fold parallel to each other tie a line around em and toss em in the catbox. I can remove or install them in less than 5 minutes even by myself. It really is not that hard. My wife has even beaten me to the last couple times doing by herself or with one of sons. It really is quite easy and not that time consuming at all one you have done it a couple times.

Same here. Just make sure the threaded portion of the cross bar is marked so the rudders aren't out of alignment. If they are it is pretty easy to tell as soon as they are hung, just a PITA to have to take it back off and fix it.

So when I went to order the new rudder sheaves, hit a problem, on my rudder setup there are 3 upper sheaves, 1 lower sheave on the lock release plate. Murrays did not know about this lower sheave, they say that according to their catalog, there is no sheave, only a plastic spacer. So the question is, is my lower sheave an upgrade, or is the plastic spacer an upgrade?

I like the sheave there, it has a small spacer on the side of the sheave, on the clevis pin, it acts as a rope guide as well as giving me 2:1 uphaul on the rudder.

What thinks thee my merry men?

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

So when I went to order the new rudder sheaves, hit a problem, on my rudder setup there are 3 upper sheaves, 1 lower sheave on the lock release plate. Murrays did not know about this lower sheave, they say that according to their catalog, there is no sheave, only a plastic spacer. So the question is, is my lower sheave an upgrade, or is the plastic spacer an upgrade? Which would be better?

I like the sheave there, it acts as a rope guide as well as giving me 2:1 uphaul on the rudder.

What thinks thee my merry men

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

i tried to get a tight shot of my rudder...

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
--

Bill, you have 2 sheaves on your lock release plate, waddup wid dat

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

I am new to the prindle world as well and just got done repairing and repainting my 18-2. I am starting assembly this weekend and have an internal 2-1 downhaul on the rudders (thanks stu) I have some old pics of how they came off and will have some new pics when i get them back together. The extra sheeves are available but eeven the maker can't seem to get the parts right! take what ya got and go shop hopping or take some pics on a ruler and that should help you find replacements if needed (some of mine were rotten)

I second the whole jig block relocation thing. If you want to free some space, you can remove the cross wire and attach the blocs directly to the traveler car (this is a factory configuration so no worries) the 4 way system is a nice upgrade but a pain for the crew to hurdle. Just another reason why its good to be the captain... keep in mind the jib works with the main so mess it up and you could easily disturb the air iver the main and cause all sorts of issues not to mention loss of power. i was tempted with the whole hoobie jib system but after reading the prindle book on the 4 way, i just have to try it especially since i am solo 90% of the time and have a life time of cat experience even if not prindle. Adding a furler was a great upgrade. i did the same but am still looking for a GOOD way to mount a wind vain on it so any ideas, please feel free to share and look for pics late this weekend from me

you can use sheaves as a spacer like coastrat "nice rudders by the way".upper & lower sheaves look to be the same,that is probably why murrays doesnt bother to list a lower sheave. maybe just order 5 sheaves per side or 4sheaves w/ a spacer per side.

Have 8 sheaves on order, Tom at Murrays ran out to take a look at a P18 they had on site, he said there was no lower sheave on that one, it had the new spacer which does away with the lower sheave, it's longer than the old spacer.

On a side note, wrestled with my mast today, trying to step the mast solo, because the mast is longer than my old H16, sidesway is a bee-yach. With the mast going up sideways, the diamond wires get in the way, gonna have to come up with a tri-pod to hold the mast up slightly to get it off the tiller crossbar. So it's been a whole new project building this solo mast step setup, might just have to turn the cat backwards on the trailer and use the mast holder to step the mast manually.

Will keep y'all posted

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

its how the boat came rigged...i even had a spare rudder/casting/tiller set up rigged the same way. when i did my rudders last year, i used new nuts/bolts/washers/lock down bolts/lines and tuned the rudders by the book...they work flawlessly! this season i got my rig tension/mast rake tuned in and she is fast! here is another shot of the rudder...

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
--

I put my P18 in the water yesterday for the 1st time. Trailered cat up to the lake using the "pinched rope" method as suggested by nitrodub and coastrat, no problems, thanks guys. Spent a few hrs tweaking my solo mast step setup and it's working great, once you get past the weight, size, diamond wires, etc, it's a breeze. Built a tripod out of 1.5 inch PVC to hold mast, high enough to keep diamond wires off of tramp, and used forestay to pull mast up, there were no issues with mast being sideways. Dropped the mast only once but it came down slow enough for me to catch it, will have a bruise on my forearm for a few days. Will definitely work on a furling jib for this cat, the original takes waaay too long to setup.

Later guys


--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

Rider_55

Quarath

I simply remove the long rudders pins the connect them to the hulls like said above and remove the entire rudder setup as one piece. I loosen the the rope keeping the rudder up just bit so the rudders can fold parallel to each other tie a line around em and toss em in the catbox. I can remove or install them in less than 5 minutes even by myself. It really is not that hard. My wife has even beaten me to the last couple times doing by herself or with one of sons. It really is quite easy and not that time consuming at all one you have done it a couple times.

Same here. Just make sure the threaded portion of the cross bar is marked so the rudders aren't out of alignment. If they are it is pretty easy to tell as soon as they are hung, just a PITA to have to take it back off and fix it.

After having the threaded part come off on me once probably because I had it adjusted too far out without realizing it. I now wrap it thoroughly in electrical tape after it has been adjusted and leave it.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

turbohobo

I put my P18 in the water yesterday for the 1st time. Trailered cat up to the lake using the "pinched rope" method as suggested by nitrodub and coastrat, no problems, thanks guys. Spent a few hrs tweaking my solo mast step setup and it's working great, once you get past the weight, size, diamond wires, etc, it's a breeze. Built a tripod out of 1.5 inch PVC to hold mast, high enough to keep diamond wires off of tramp, and used forestay to pull mast up, there were no issues with mast being sideways. Dropped the mast only once but it came down slow enough for me to catch it, will have a bruise on my forearm for a few days. Will definitely work on a furling jib for this cat, the original takes waaay too long to setup.

Later guys

Though I agree with furling jib, my regular jib goes up pretty quick so maybe walk us through your process and we can critique. I know I had issues and worries there at first to but now it's fast.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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as a trailor sailor, i was wondering if there was an advantage to roller furling jib from a set up point of view. as it is now, i stand the mast up and my crew shackles the forestay then i tension the forestay to where i like it. i like this method better than moving a shroud pin down a hole or two. do you leave the jib on the forestay or do you have to rig it like you didn't have the furler when setting up?

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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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The forestay runs up a sleeve in the leading edge (luff?) of the jib, then the jib is attached to the forestay by connecting the thimbles (upper/lower) on the forestay, to the grommets (upper/lower) on the sail luff, using shackles.

http://2010.archive.hobie…ort/pdfs/PARTS_14-16.pdf (scroll down to H14 / H16 JIB SAIL & BATTENS)

So the forestay and the jib become one and the same, the jib rolled up around the forestay, when you have raised the mast and shackled your forestay to the bridle wires, your jib is ready, just pull on jib lines and the sail unfurls, pull the furler line and the jib sail rolls up around the forestay, Advantages are many, can depower in an instant by hauling on furling line, when beaching cat, furl jib, stops it from beating itself to death in strong winds, and looks very professional when coming in, jib is already furled, turn into wind as boat stops, drop mainsail, walk cat up beach, grab a cold one to the admiring gazes of any/all beach babes.

A 10 hole chainplate is attached to the top of the furling drum allowing you to adjust your mast rake to where you want it.



Edited by turbohobo on Oct 18, 2010 - 11:51 AM.

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TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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for trailoring, would you leave the jib/forestay on the mast and hank it down to something, or remove it(stored spun around the forestay) and shackle it on when you raise the mast? i think i'm asking how you store the jib...spun around the forestay or rolled up tradional(not on forestay)? set up and break down time is at a premium for us so i'm trying to determin if the upgrade will cost me too much extra time. right now we are from the road to rigged and loaded in under 30 minutes...we tend to leave the beach after dark and we HATE to leave!

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Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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I hear you coastrat, in my case, I dont have the space to leave my mast on my cat, I have brackets on my privacy fence to hold my mast. After sailing, I take everything off the mast tang, roll up my trap wires as well as my jib/forestay and attach the shrouds to the trailer knowing that when I get home I'm going to lift the mast off the trailer and hang it in the back yard. In most cases, trailer sailors can leave their mast on the trailer, and can therefore leave everything attached to the mast tang including the jib/forestay. In that case a jib sock is recommended to protect the jib from the elements, some guys with roller furling jibs who leave their cats mast up will use their mast halyard to raise the sock up over the jib for protection. In those cases the sock is usually a zippered canvas sock, works similar to the Prindle jib, you hold onto the zipper as you pull on the halyard, closing the canvas around the jib sail. I leave my sail furled around the forestay when I pack it away, it does not take long to rig all shrouds, forestay and trap wires onto the mast tang prior to raising mast, but if you can leave your mast on your cat, it will save you a few min.

Hey no smilies!!

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TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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sounds like it could be a good thing...got some other repairs/upgrades for this winter, if i get those handled i'll look into roller furl...i mainly like it for beaching on windy days. yesterday we saw a bimar uni screaming across the bay, it seemed unuseually fast, esp when he poped his chute! fast boat.

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Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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check it out guys, just started an album under beachcat members, restoring my 1983 P18

http://www.thebeachcats.c…faf7e73b609d88033512dca5




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TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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Nice pictures.
How much did you get that P18 for?

turbohobo

check it out guys, just started an album under beachcat members, restoring my 1983 P18

http://www.thebeachcats.c…faf7e73b609d88033512dca5

Edited by TylerH on Oct 21, 2010 - 09:57 PM.

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Tyler holmes
Panama city, FL

Boat whore
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i love mildew on hulls! if people just washed it off they could get another 500$ for there boat! thats a new tramp and a new set of standing rigging!

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Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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I paid $600 for cat and trailer, cost me about $200 in gas to Ohio and back, $300 for a new tramp, $150 in title and license fees, and about $200 in other sundry items, sold my old H16 for $1200.



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TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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