1) Do I take the center bar out? I am leaning to. My wife and kid hate it.
2) I am getting tramp resewn. Where do I put the grommets to run the jib wires under the tramp.
3) Do I run my trap bungees under the tramp or through the front crossbeam.
4) I have to replace my standing rigging (it may be the original) Do I reswag the trap wire to the shroud or try and attached it to the mast hound. I have a one hole mast hound. This would of course make me buy another trap wire.
5) How do I keep the tiller bar from twisting.
6) Do I want to put a capture base on my mast? It seems fine to me but....
7) I have no pockets on the tramp does anyone have suggestion to anything other than two up from for the halyards.
Thanks

--
Nacra 5.2
--

1. Yes but leave the back casting for the bar in place. It's a nice place to put your foot while you are driving. Just adjust your hull alignment and rivet your straps to the bars. I did that and didn't look back.

2. About 18" inside the hull and between 2-4 ft from the rear beam giving you 2 ft of adjustability. It's easier if you mark where your old wires go on the tramp with some yellow crayon and the location of your blocks.

3. The helm shock cord should go under the tramp just rear of the daggerboard and through a strap eye on the outboard side fo the hull. I used nylon strap eyes to be easier if you sit on them. The front shoudl go through the front beam and can double as a hand hold to get back on the boat over the front. It also keeps it out of your way if you only single trap very often.

4. Buy the 2 double trap wires. Drill a second hole in the hound above the shroud attachement if you can't fit 2 shackles in the main hole. Or get a new hound.

5. Old system, use nylock nuts and nylon washers on the attachment to the tiller arms and tighten them so they are snug but allow a little bit of play. Or get the upgrade kit for $50+

6. If you have the old 1.25" ball then you want to get the newer base just becuase you can't get the old ones anymore. A full trapped ball base (i.e. it is captured all the time not just when stepping) isn't needed.

7. Just one big one aft of the mast. That is really all you need to hold your halyards, whistle and a couple of odd bits. Most everything else can go in the hulls. Might be nice to have a couple of pockets or stretchy straps sewn underneath facing the front beam to hold 2 collapseable paddles. Otherwise they are a pain to ferry around.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Wolfman you are wise beyond your ears.

--
Nacra 5.2
--

I have a 1 1/4" ball that I'll never use. It is worn, but would work as a spare to keep you sailing. Free to anyone who wants it. P.M. me.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

as above

1. if you remove the tramp bar, drill and rivet the straps to the beams with 3 stainless rivets per strap
2. later 5.2's moved their jib blocks a bit further out, i've moved mine a couple of inches further out and a couple of inches forward. and gone through the tramp, to be tested next summer]
3. rear trap wires, my hulls had a black plastic guide for the rear trap bungee, i just put the eyelets in the tramp in line with those

dinner time

4. i think i gave my views earlier
5. use some stainless lockwire to wrap the tiller universals in the position you want fixed
6. if you have mast up storage you can probably live with the old mast ball system, i do. if you have to raise and lower the mast each time you go sailing you should probably get the captive system
7. hand sew the corners of a couple of mesh zipped bags on to the front of the tramp, the kind women put their "specials" in before throwing in the washing machine

7. hand sew the corners of a couple of mesh zipped bags on to the front of the tramp, the kind women put their "specials" in before throwing in the washing machine

Good tip, that! Always pays to be ready for anything ;-P

Why not just buy some tramp material and sew your own tramp pockets? Much more durable that way. I carry an anchor in one of mine. To carry my extra junk I string a sports bag to the gooseneck and boom.

I also took out the center bar. Absolutely no regrets!

trapeze bungees again

front goes through front beam

rear goes through an eyelet on the tramp that is 27cm aft of the shrouds

(actually before that eyelet mine goes through a too small guide on the edge of the hull, from there to the tramp eyelet. as the hull guide is so small only thin bungee can be used which stretches badly after a season and needs to be replaced. so have used some whipping twine to hang a small block next to each eyelet under the tramp. now, using triple length of bungee, it runs from left trap handle, down and through hull edge guide, across hull and down tramp edge eyelet, across to right side block, back to left block, back across again and up remaining eyelet, across hull to guide, up to right side trap handle)

the position of the helms trap bungee is kind of set by the space available.

it wants to be just behind the dagger well so it's out of the way but easy to see and reach for while sailing



Edited by erice on Jan 19, 2011 - 11:26 PM.

See this thread re: 1 .25' mast ball.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ms/viewtopic/topic/11635

--
Gray Amick
Chapin, SC
'77 NACRA 5.2
--

Specifically see the last posting regarding the availability of the 1.25" ball.

--
Gray Amick
Chapin, SC
'77 NACRA 5.2
--

golfdad asked for some pics and explanation of the, untested, under-tramp jib wires on my 5.2
hopefully the pics are above, or this album

http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=72040

click on the pics for full size

rather than cut slits in the 29yo tramp mesh i sailed for a couple of years experimenting with what i thought was a better position of the jib blocks. this is outboard and forward of the factory settings of 1980. 1985 boats went outboard from the factory too, but not as far forward.
once the better position was decided small holes were chosen in the tramp mesh and then gradually expanded/stretched, with large artist brush handles, until the blue plastic coleman tarp grommets could slid on and hammered together.

http://www.scouts.ca/wind…a/Scout%20Shop/Tents.htm

to move the jib wires under the tramp the 4 saddles on the beams had to be moved under the tramp too. going below the tramp track made the distance longer so new thinner wires were made up with loops at the end big enough to squeeze through the grommets in the tramp

as on the old style, to fix the fore/aft position of the jib blocks a line runs from the blocks back to the rear saddle where it is knotted

if i start sailing more often with crew, next winter the beam straps will get drilled and riveted to the beams so the centre bar can be turfed. but for solo sailing it's fine