Thanks to all for the info on the last 5.2. Post !! Saved me questions here. Just brought home a 77 .. Great shape but no up grades..

Q 1.. The jib zipper is missing a few (2) teeth and is soo stiff.. I think the slider is bad. Tried silicone.. Bit of help.. Slides down but get stuck when unzipping.. I am rather sure I can zip it all the way to the foot however.. ...I think I can fish the forestay in the pocket prior to setpping the mast. How about raising the mast with a trap line to keep the sail clear of that operation and attaching the chain plate to the forstay using the tention from the trap line... Found a new zipper at Elloits but the repair is a few bucks.. I would like to get her on the water prior to spending bucks on repairs. Thinking about a roller reef add on..

Q2.. I dont understand why the DS needs to be changed to use the larger mast ball?? I was going to get a new mast base cuz I trailer and like the captive feature.. I have a ball from a 6.0 that I just sold and it slips ober the DS post with just a tiney bit of slop.. Seems like it would work fine with a bit of epoxy.. Perhaps that is not needed becaust the preasure is more downward and not as much side to side.. The mast base alone is not 150$ acording to the Murrys cat..

Q3 Anyone got a pix of how the jib hallyard fastens at the base of the mast. I am used to the cleats on Hobies to secure that line.. On mine N. 5.2 the sheet is "tied" to the pulley that conects to the wire to raise the jib. Seems like that is wrong.. Where does that line anchor??

Q4.. Cant seem to find out how the "pivmatic" piece works on the tiller.. I Like the idea that it helps kick up over obstructions but not sure how it works. Forum folks all recomend adding it..

Q5.. Also confused about the trap lines. Going to solo a lot and cant seem to imagine a b. cord in the front x member working well.. How about aft where the tramp laces??

Q6.. The boat came with 3 (yes 3) new daggers. HOWEVER. they are thinner than the originals. The seem a bit sloppy in the wells?? Problem?? Also got to install bungi to hold them up..

Q Last. Righting line. My boat has the caps removed from the front x member and a piece of 3/8 line attached to a nut through the member with several hand holds. It stuffs in the x mamber till needed. Has one on each side. pull out as needed. Workable??

Thanks in advance. Love this forum

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

Q1. You'd probably best be served getting a new jib. 5.2 jibs are cheap, this time of year especially, and it never hurts to have a backup sail. That said, replacing the zipper should be cheap.

q2. I wouldn't epoxy a mast ball on -- they get worn quickly.

q3. That block should hang down the mast, and stop about 1-2 feet above a standard jam-cleat w/ becket. tie a line onto the becket, up through the block, back down through the cleat. Gives you a 2:1 on the jib, and the tension can be adjusted from the water (for upwind vs downwind, or high wind)

q4. search for pics, it'll be easy to figure out if you can see it

q5. the only problem running shock cord through the main beam is that it doesn't leave a whole lot of range of motion for the crew, compared to what you can acheive w/ the skippers trap/shock cord setup.

q6. add padding to the daggers? no idea here.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

Quote

Q3 Anyone got a pix of how the jib hallyard fastens at the base of the mast. I am used to the cleats on Hobies to secure that line.. On mine N. 5.2 the sheet is "tied" to the pulley that connects to the wire to raise the jib. Seems like that is wrong.. Where does that line anchor??
It is correct. There is probably a small steel strap eye on the mast. Run a short line from the block,(pulley) down through the strap eye, up to the block, then down to the jam cleat on the mast, gives 2:1 as Yurdle said. Step 60 in the manual explains the two different systems

Q4.. Cant seem to find out how the "pivmatic" piece works on the tiller.. I Like the idea that it helps kick up over obstructions but not sure how it works. Forum folks all recommend adding it..

The pull down line on the rudder goes over a roller on the rudder pivot bolt, then along the arm through the jam cleat of the pivmatic. When the rudder hits, the jam cleat won't let the line slip, so the pivmatic breaks loose from the tiller arm, & pivots upwards via the pin at the end of the pivmatic.

Download the two NAcra manuals from this site. One is newer than your boat, but it shows the rudder assembly better than the older one. Go to Photo Albums/Technical Tips/pg 2 or this link. It will show two icons, select each one in turn. It will show thumbnails of each page. Go to the bottom & download the PDF file, that will give you the entire manual.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=35212



Edited by Edchris177 on Feb 03, 2011 - 04:00 AM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

halliske

Q 1.. The jib zipper is missing a few (2) teeth and is soo stiff.. I think the slider is bad. Tried silicone.. Bit of help.. Slides down but get stuck when unzipping.. I am rather sure I can zip it all the way to the foot however.. ...I think I can fish the forestay in the pocket prior to setpping the mast. How about raising the mast with a trap line to keep the sail clear of that operation and attaching the chain plate to the forstay using the tention from the trap line... Found a new zipper at Elloits but the repair is a few bucks.. I would like to get her on the water prior to spending bucks on repairs. Thinking about a roller reef add on..

my jib zip has also lost a few teeth, but it gets by. i hear $5 will buy you a new slider, maybe try that 1st

Q2.. I dont understand why the DS needs to be changed to use the larger mast ball?? I was going to get a new mast base cuz I trailer and like the captive feature.. I have a ball from a 6.0 that I just sold and it slips ober the DS post with just a tiney bit of slop.. Seems like it would work fine with a bit of epoxy.. Perhaps that is not needed becaust the preasure is more downward and not as much side to side.. The mast base alone is not 150$ acording to the Murrys cat..

the old DS rod was found to bend, so the new kit is actually; new safer/pinned base, thicker DS rod on bigger nylon ball, probably could use the N6.0 ball for a bit but if you want the captive base anyway...

Q3 Anyone got a pix of how the jib hallyard fastens at the base of the mast. I am used to the cleats on Hobies to secure that line.. On mine N. 5.2 the sheet is "tied" to the pulley that conects to the wire to raise the jib. Seems like that is wrong.. Where does that line anchor??

just put the jib halyard through through the jam cleat on the mast. it was designed to go through the mast saddle, back up to the small block and then down to the jam cleat for 2:1 purchase and jib luff adjustment but unless you are racing 1-design with experienced crew it's more trouble than it's worth...

Q4.. Cant seem to find out how the "pivmatic" piece works on the tiller.. I Like the idea that it helps kick up over obstructions but not sure how it works. Forum folks all recomend adding it..

without the pivotmatic you could rip you transoms out.....it's a bugger to thread the bungee through when fitting

Q5.. Also confused about the trap lines. Going to solo a lot and cant seem to imagine a b. cord in the front x member working well.. How about aft where the tramp laces??

front bungee in front beam is only for crew trap line, too far forward for helm. helm bungee runs through tramp just aft of dagger well, as per pic in other thread

Q6.. The boat came with 3 (yes 3) new daggers. HOWEVER. they are thinner than the originals. The seem a bit sloppy in the wells?? Problem?? Also got to install bungi to hold them up..

you need bits of carpet glued in at top and bottom of well on both sides. thickness and amount of carpet important to get nice sliding fit. oem pre-1984? 5.2' had a bungee going forward from the top of the dagger but this can wear/damage the well in the hull so they switched to a side loader bungee, lots of pics about on the web but the key is getting the carpets bits right

Q Last. Righting line. My boat has the caps removed from the front x member and a piece of 3/8 line attached to a nut through the member with several hand holds. It stuffs in the x mamber till needed. Has one on each side. pull out as needed. Workable??

most recommend tying around the mast base and throwing over the high hull. needs to hold you flat just above the water. i've never righted mine solo as; i'm too light, on a lake the swell doesn't help you, and lake gusts that flip you over are too flukey to pick you up

Thanks in advance. Love this forum

halliske

Q 1.. The jib zipper is missing a few (2) teeth and is soo stiff.. I think the slider is bad. Tried silicone.. Bit of help.. Slides down but get stuck when unzipping.. I am rather sure I can zip it all the way to the foot however.. ...I think I can fish the forestay in the pocket prior to setpping the mast. How about raising the mast with a trap line to keep the sail clear of that operation and attaching the chain plate to the forstay using the tention from the trap line... Found a new zipper at Elloits but the repair is a few bucks.. I would like to get her on the water prior to spending bucks on repairs. Thinking about a roller reef add on..

my jib zip has also lost a few teeth, but it gets by. i hear $5 will buy you a new slider, maybe try that 1st

Q2.. I dont understand why the DS needs to be changed to use the larger mast ball?? I was going to get a new mast base cuz I trailer and like the captive feature.. I have a ball from a 6.0 that I just sold and it slips ober the DS post with just a tiney bit of slop.. Seems like it would work fine with a bit of epoxy.. Perhaps that is not needed becaust the preasure is more downward and not as much side to side.. The mast base alone is not 150$ acording to the Murrys cat..

the old DS rod was found to bend, so the new kit is actually; new safer/pinned base, thicker DS rod on bigger nylon ball, probably could use the N6.0 ball for a bit but if you want the captive base anyway...

Q3 Anyone got a pix of how the jib hallyard fastens at the base of the mast. I am used to the cleats on Hobies to secure that line.. On mine N. 5.2 the sheet is "tied" to the pulley that conects to the wire to raise the jib. Seems like that is wrong.. Where does that line anchor??

just put the jib halyard through through the jam cleat on the mast. it was designed to go through the mast saddle, back up to the small block and then down to the jam cleat for 2:1 purchase and jib luff adjustment but unless you are racing 1-design with experienced crew it's more trouble than it's worth...

Q4.. Cant seem to find out how the "pivmatic" piece works on the tiller.. I Like the idea that it helps kick up over obstructions but not sure how it works. Forum folks all recomend adding it..

without the pivotmatic you could rip you transoms out.....it's a bugger to thread the bungee through when fitting

Q5.. Also confused about the trap lines. Going to solo a lot and cant seem to imagine a b. cord in the front x member working well.. How about aft where the tramp laces??

front bungee in front beam is only for crew trap line, too far forward for helm. helm bungee runs through tramp just aft of dagger well, as per pic in other thread

Q6.. The boat came with 3 (yes 3) new daggers. HOWEVER. they are thinner than the originals. The seem a bit sloppy in the wells?? Problem?? Also got to install bungi to hold them up..

you need bits of carpet glued in at top and bottom of well on both sides. thickness and amount of carpet important to get nice sliding fit. oem pre-1984? 5.2' had a bungee going forward from the top of the dagger but this can wear/damage the well in the hull so they switched to a side loader bungee, lots of pics about on the web but the key is getting the carpets bits right

Q Last. Righting line. My boat has the caps removed from the front x member and a piece of 3/8 line attached to a nut through the member with several hand holds. It stuffs in the x mamber till needed. Has one on each side. pull out as needed. Workable??

most recommend tying around the mast base and throwing over the high hull. needs to hold you flat just above the water. i've never righted mine solo as; i'm too light, on a lake the swell doesn't help you, and lake gusts that flip you over are too flukey to pick you up

Thanks in advance. Love this forum

Q2. I put a helicoil in the larger diameter mast ball to thread it onto my current DS rod. Works great and the captive mast base is worth every penny

Q2. I put a helicoil in the larger diameter mast ball to thread it onto my current DS rod. Works great and the captive mast base is worth every penny

Hall,

I also have a '77 Nacra that I acquired last year, did a bit of fixing up, and sailed last summer.

Q1. I had a local guy (Wright Sail) sew me in a complete new jib zipper for $100.

Q3. Ed's described it well. I looked and unfortunately I don't have a pic of that

Q4. just jam the hold down line from the rudder in the piv. it will pop up from bow to stern when activated.

In case you have not found this guys site it has some good pics http://www.radesignz.com/nacra5.2redo.htm

Also Wolfman has some great rigging pics http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=74145

And check this link http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=35563 for more rigging pics.

This forum is awesome. I would have never made it on the water with out it.

--
Gray Amick
Chapin, SC
'77 NACRA 5.2
--

THanks to all who took time to resond !! Had some of the pixs but not all. Olde guys need pixs..

Think I might try the helicoil thing for the ball cuz the difference in the size of the thread on the DS is so small and the strenght issue looks moot.. and it saves $$

The pivotmatic looks like a great up grade. Got the idea thx..

Going to sail it once or twice till I see how the jib lines work befor I relocate the tacks for them and redo the tramp for trap lines and under tramp jib rigging.

Same for the zipper prob cuz I may want to do a roller and that might change things.. Sail it.. try it.. I am in Northern Calif and could have gone out last weekend (Opps Sorry East Coast guys)

The riging of the jib is still not clear. Coming from a H 16 background.. In a H16 the tension in the rig is established by the downhaul of the jib line. The forestay is slack.. The forstay on the 5.2 is a monster and looks like it should carry the tension of the rigging.. Now my sheet from the bottom of the downhaul cable is tied OVER THE BLOCK AND AROUND THE PULLEY. My guess is that the block should have a bar under the pulley that the line attaches to so the pulley is free to apply tension whenit is rigged with the block in the bottom of the mast and is tightened.. Will try to get a pix tomorrow.

BUT,,, Does the rig tension leave the forestay with tention or is that done with the downhaul for the jib and the tension end up in the leach of the jib.?? Or.. Is there just a bit of slack in the rigging. side stays and forestay??? Should the forestay be tight enough to support the leach at all times??

PS.. Whats with the spar on the 5.2 that is adevrtized now in the clasified?? Looks like it has a spar and the stock lines from the hulls...

Thanks for the info. Buzz out to Calif and go for a sail on her with me.. Going to have the new sheets and the mast base installed next week.. Thx Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

Quote

Think I might try the helicoil thing for the ball cuz the difference in the size of the thread on the DS is so small and the strenght issue looks moot.. and it saves $$

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

Quote

In a H16 the tension in the rig is established by the downhaul of the jib line. The forestay is slack.

Different horse the Nacra is. When I first picked up my 5.7 I took tons of useless pictures. Occasionally one of these proves useful!
In the photo below look at the top right. You can see 3 swagings, & 2 of the three thimbles. The top & bottom thimbles (or left & right if you visualize the mast being vertical) are shrouds, going to the respective chain-plates on the hulls. The center one is the fore stay-that will go down to a 10 hole adjuster that connects via a shackle to the two bridal wires,(one from each hull) forming an inverted "Y". The thinner wires you see are for the double traps.

The mast rake is set by moving the fore stay up or down in the 10 hole chainplate. (I borrowed that photo, note it is rigged wrong, the bridal wires should be inside the chainplate to properly distribute loads).
The rig is tensioned by setting the mast rake,(as above) then set one shroud in the appropriate hole (again each shroud connects to a 10 hole chainplate). Have a buddy pull on a trap wire, or put on a harness & hang from the wire while you set the second shroud. Voila, you now have the rig tensioned & the jib is still sitting at your feet.

Now observe the wire that goes around the block attached to the mast. That is the jib halyard, with block attached,(I think this is the setup you have). The top of jib will attach via a shackle to the end of the wire at top left of photo. As you haul the jib up, you zipper it up as it slides UP the forestay. The tack of the jib is then attached to the jib hanger (it is hanging down in the bottom photo, you would rotate it upwards & attach jib). Now you will tension the jib independently of the rig. With the jib raised, the block with becket (left center of top photo) will now be near the base of the mast. You raised the jib with the long line attached to the becket. When the line was attached, it was done so as to leave appx 2 feet of length as a trailing end. This does not show in the photo. Visualize a 25' line, tied to the beckett so as to leave a 2' tail. Comprende?
Once you raise the jib, take that 2' end & run it through the appropriate strap eye on the mast, back around the pulley, then through the jam cleat on the mast to hold it. This gives 3:1 to tension the jib. You don't need to tension it like a piano wire, you're not in the Worlds with an old 5.2, just take the wrinkles out of the jib, then stow the halyard in the tramp pocket.
All that's left is to attach the lines from the jib blocks, see the manual for this if in doubt. These photos & more are in my album under members 1984 Nacra 5.7 Click on photos in post to get full size.
Hope this works for you.



Edited by Edchris177 on Feb 08, 2011 - 04:28 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Thanks again to all who have taken a sec to respond !!!

1..JIb Rigging This is a pic of the Halyard conection to the jib tac.. ( If the pix works..Figured that it was originally and probably did not have the wire piece( SLO Sail shop make 2 styles of jib halyard).. So Going to install a block with a becket there .. At the base of the mast only a eye and the jam cleat now.. Going to install a cheek block there. Center Starb. side of the front of the mast OK for the cheek block?? What was the duty of the eye there on the lower part of the mast there ??

2..Mast base and DS pin. Is there really a difference in the durability of the 2 sizes of the DS if you lower the mast properly?? YURDLE.. Was that your DS?? Not sure that it is worth it to install a bigger DS??

3..I have the old single post mast rotation control. Looks like it will work?? Worth the retrofit of a newer style?? Same for the spreaders. (How about sealing the old style spreaders to seal the mast??

4.. Sailed H 16s.. NO CENTER BAR on the tramp. Looks like a nightmare.. Read in other posts that it can be gone with some "bracket" retro work. Not clear which bracket???

5..Going to put some gromets in the tramp for the trap lines and to relocate the jib blocks. Think I can figure out the aft Trap lines. Are the forward ones OK in the X Memeber??

6.. The boom has the older 3 block set-up. Worth getting a new block for that?? Located on whitch tac point.. Want to contribute??. Send cash..

7.. Have a roller set up from an H18. Planning to single most of the time.. Might be handy to depower.. Looks like it may work.. Any tips or advice??

8.. Now the hulls.. The last owner painted the keels with a anti-fouling paint. Blue in the pix.. Looks like he primed it with some kind of primer..



Brownish in the pix.. The Blue comes off with Acetone and better with MEK..



Any prob using those on the glass?? The brown will need some rubbing compound or sanding i think.. I would love to have an all white hull..

Questions.. Gelcoat (or paint) the whole hull?? Only from the line down?? Good news is that the keel has NO BEACH WEAR !! Needs no glass or build-up.. Oh Yah. Even if it is a 77.. The hulls are shine-en. (Stored insidde for lots of years.. even in Calif).. What is the polish of choice?? ..


By the way, the Hobies in the back ground of one of the pixs are not all mine !! I"m not that ill.. Got storage. Actually the H 20 and the Nacra 5.8 the call this place home are elsewhere for maintainance.. Not too a big fleet though..

If pixs dont show ther are in the Album section..

Thx Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

SORRY THE PIX LINKS WERE NOT ok AND DONT SEEM TO BE WORKING. CHECK OUT THE Catsailor Photo ALBUMS 5.2 RE-DO Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

Quote

2..Mast base and DS pin. Is there really a difference in the durability of the 2 sizes of the DS if you lower the mast properly?? YURDLE.. Was that your DS?? Not sure that it is worth it to install a bigger DS??

That was my DS after banging on it with a rubber mallet to try to straighten it out. It was almost a full 90 degrees over initially. That's the 9/16 rod. I wouldn't go smaller, and I would retrofit it if I had a smaller one.

That said, there are some caveats:
.It didn't dismast, although we had to rotate the mast by pushing on the rotator after tacking, as the base casting was catching.
.I did more damage in ~15 months to that cat than the previous 25 years.
.When the step bent, we were double trapped in intense wind and lake chop, which is extremely tough on the boat.
.It makes a neat story.

So to each his own, but I've got one of the smaller old style laying in my garage, and I'm going to build another 9/16.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

Quote

3..I have the old single post mast rotation control. Looks like it will work?? Worth the retrofit of a newer style?? Same for the spreaders. (How about sealing the old style spreaders to seal the mast??

I've disassembled those spreaders, and after doing so, I don't think you can seal them. That's not to say it's technically impossible, but realistically it doesn't seem like it would work.

I never had trouble with my 5.2 mast filling with water, though.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

Quote

6.. The boom has the older 3 block set-up. Worth getting a new block for that?? Located on whitch tac point.. Want to contribute??. Send cash..

Sail it first, beg later.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

halliske

SORRY THE PIX LINKS WERE NOT ok AND DONT SEEM TO BE WORKING. CHECK OUT THE Catsailor Photo ALBUMS 5.2 RE-DO Hal

can you provide the link to your album?

4.. Sailed H 16s.. NO CENTER BAR on the tramp. Looks like a nightmare.. Read in other posts that it can be gone with some "bracket" retro work. Not clear which bracket???

if you remove the bar you have to stop the beams from twisting in their cradles. most use stainless rivets to rivet the stainless beam straps to the beams



Edited by erice on Feb 15, 2011 - 01:55 AM.

I put a roller furling kit from an F-18 on my 5.2. I LOVE it, it saved my "arsch" last year when I was over powered in strong winds and had to beat dead to windward in a narrow rocky channel. Would not have made it without stowing the jib or the main otherwise. That is darned hard to do when the slightest false move on the tramp already starts to flip the boat...
I got a new forestay, it was due anyway. First I mounted the pigtail and swivel then connected the jib luff and raised it, tightened it and measured the resulting excess on the original forestay. Then I had one made to the right length (allow for variation in mast rake!) In other words aim for the center hole in the chainplate on the rotator drum. That way I knew it HAD to fit. And it does.

Re center bar: Just lose it! Do as erice says, you won't be sorry. The bracket you speak of may be the center bar's rear mounting bracket. You can't just throw it away because the mainsheet swivel and cleat also attach to it. I left mine original but plan on removing the part that used to go inside the center bar. I've only bruised my knees badly on that a couple of times though, so there's no big rush... OR the beam straps on the forward (main) beam. I put 4mm monel rivets in at roughly the "2 o'clock" and "ten o'clock" positions. After a season including some very hard sailing, salt water and zero maintenance to those specific areas it all still looks great.

Dennis

I used stainless rivets in the main beam/straps. I think I used 1 per strap. I also over-tightened the bolts a touch (not recommended.)

I like the footrest that the fitting under the traveler sheet cleat provides in some situations. I've only hurt myself on it once that I can recall, and it was very minor.

I would lose the center beam if I hadn't already.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--

LiNK TO THE PIXS IS

http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=79384
Thanks for the info on the roller reef, DS re-do, sealing the mast and the center bar removal. Going to try the reefer after i get her sorted out. The center bar goes now..
Got a new set of sheets in today from SLO Sails.. Going to have them re-do the tramp.. $60 for new jib slots, trap line grommets, trim and stitch the center bar material and re-stich a shot spot that is weak.. Oh and Hiking straps install... Great deal. The sheets look cool to.. Great colors. Ex material..

Going to install the new style dagger board straps. What type of screw for the fiberglass hull??

If you get a sec, check out the pix and give your feed back on paint removal and refinishing of the hulls.. and Polish..

Know any one who need an extra Hobie. I have a few..

Thx for all the info. Cheers Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

P.S. Have the furler. Need a swivel.. Anyone got one to sell?? ( I have a winery her in CA.. Or trade for vino?? )
Thx Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

http://www.thebeachcats.c…42c20a4839e86d47c2fe7...

above is a link to the 5 pics

you shouldn't need to put a screw through the f/glass hull for the dagger side-loader bungee. mine has 2 stainless saddles mounted on the alloy tramp track base with stainless screws

gelcoat is pretty tough, if i wanted to remove paint from gelocat i guess i would start by putting a dab of gel paint stripper on as a test. and if it worked without damaging the gelcoat i would use rubber gloves and a stainless wool pot scrubber to remove as much as possible

fair chance it will not be perfect under there though, if not the easiest fix would be to mix up some white gelcoat and hand paint it on to the hull on a hot day



Edited by erice on Feb 16, 2011 - 06:50 AM.

THx ERICE.. Saw those on a 6.0.. Thats what I neeed to install. Mine does not have them. It has a small hook forward on the top of the hull for a bungi to the top of the Dagger B. If I go through the track base it still goes through the hull I thiink.. Will check today.. Also going to try the stripper idea. THought of that but unsure how tough the glass is. The blue stuff comes off with MEK.. Thx Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

I rivetted a couple of hammock hooks to my deck for side loaders. I would suggest just putting a couple of brass grommets in the tramp on either side and tying the shock cord underneath for the side loaders. To be honest even the shock cord going to the front of the boat isn't that bad a system. The shock cords are pretty much out of the way when the dagger boards are down.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Hi All.. Going to get the girl in the water this week or next.. Still need help with rigging please

Since the forestay slides in the jib pocket.. What is the tension on that forstay. Do I snug up the rigging and tighten it by moving the shroud tention up by adlusting the chain plates?? My studys say that the mast rake should be slightly aft of center.. That should be set with the forestay tack at the fore stay chainplate?? In the Hobie days the forstay did not support the tension the Jib did. Sounds like I need a balance of tension from the jib dounhaul and the forstay tension after the rig is tightened..

Cant seem to find a threading guide to my Main blocks.. Hope to post a pix of the setup..

Also have a pulley mounted on the clip on the rear of the rear xmember. Cant figure out what it is for. The main sheet tacked there after runing through the cleat and guide and traveler..

Will try to get pix on my album for those things Thx in advance.. What a help this has been in geting started with the new boat.. Hal]

Pix are in the Album under 5.2 redo.. Thx Hal



Edited by halliske on Jun 08, 2011 - 12:22 PM.

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

Tension the rig before you put the jib up. Set the rake using the forestay pin and then set the shrouds. Start by setting both shrouds to the lowest pin hole that you can reach easily on both sides. Next go to one side and go one more pin down, go to the other side and grab a trap wire (or have a friend do so) and pull it so you can put the shroud in the same hole as the other side. THat should be enough tension for the rig and still let the mast rotate properly.

Your jib should never have more tension in it than the forestay, you jib won't handle the load of the entire rig. You don't need a lot of tension in the jib luff, just enough to get the wrinkles out, plus maybe a little bit.

Which main blocks do you have? Here are the Harken Reeving Diagrams. Likely you have a 6:1 or 7:1 with a hexacat base. YOu can use the 8:1 here to figure it out. If anyone has some better examples that would be great.

http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Reeving_Diagrams.php

If the block is in the center and faces sternward it is to give you 3:1 purchase on the traveler. Your traveler line goes through the cam cleat on the beam through the block and back to the cam cleat. You then tie it off to the becket on the cam cleat.

D.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Wolfie. Thx for the link to Harken. NEVER Thought about checking there .. Duh... Looks like I have a 6:1 with a block added on the becket.. So it should reevie like the 8:1except that it tacks on the boom and not using a quad bock... making it a 7.375;1 He He.. The lower block I have is the 6:1 Dead end on the cam.. (Photo in the album)..

Now.. For the rear ward facing block on the Xmember.. I could see things working IF.. The line went through the cam cleat.. out to the traveler.. Through the block and back to the traveler. But with the with the line going from the cam cleat to the block, the line runs OVER the traveler track which would preclude the traveler from tacking. AND there is no tac or becket on the traveler to tac the line to.. (Might run it through the U shackle) Supose i could use a clip of some sort.. Not sure I need a 3:1 on the traveler. OK OK Got thinkin about it and went out and asked the girl. She said.. STUPID. I am not a Hobie.. Use a seperate smaller line to get me in and out.. So used to using the tail of the main sheet to trim the traveler.. The space when the block is turned outward does not allow enough roon for the larger sheet to run smoothly.. Still not sure I need a 3:1 cuz in my hobie days the traveler was allways more central for hauling a** l.. Thx so much for the hints..

News from California... is that i just got a 5.2 for $150 with a trailer (all apart) with re-done gel cote on the hulls. Got to put her toghter. Got extra trailers to do in the mean time.. Might need a rudder casting..(got an extra I can buy).. I think it is rather complete except for the casting.. .. P S How do you tell the difference from right and left.. Opps Port and starb.. Thanks for your time and interest.. If u bee in Calif. May have an extre 5.2 you can use !! Hav a small winery here so if the wind is down we still have fun.. Cheers Hal



Edited by halliske on Jun 09, 2011 - 07:35 PM.

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

Oops sorry it goes back to the eye strap on the traveller, hard to picture when you are 2 hours away from your boat and forgot to take a good picture. The same connection you use to attache the mainsheet block to the traveller. You could just remove the pulley though and tie the traveller line to the eye strap the pulley was on. Like you said, you really only need 2:1 on the traveller.

Port and starboard castings are the same, so are the rudders and daggerboards. If you need a casting talk to Dan Berger and Prindle Pete on here both part out boats on a regular basis. I believe all the rudder castings for nacras are the same.

May take you up on that one day.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Hi Dave .. Just brought the new 5.2 home today.. WOW what a steal.. NEW.. wheels, tires axel, berrings for the trailer .. Fresh gel cote.. Good Sails.. Needs 1 rudder and casting as well as linkage.. jib blocks.. mast dimond wires and struts and turnbuckles.. Have the missing rigging from my present boat.. and needs a tramp.. 150$.. A STeal .. Do you have emails for dan and Pete.. Love to start on the project.. Thx Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

Hal

Someone listed N5.0 parts rudders and casting for sale on this site yesterday, That might work?

Where in Ca. are you sailing, We are in the Ventura area if you ever want to venture this way.

--
Jeff O
N5.0
solcat 18(sold),
N5.2,
H16
Camarillo CA
--

The castings may work the rudders will not. If you bought the rudders and castings you could likely make it work. I think the 5.0 rudders are deeper than the 5.2, 5.5, 5.8 rudders but not sure what other differences there are.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Hi Hal,
I have a couple rudders, castings, and the tiller bar if you need them... not sure what they are worth but they came off a '78 5.2 that I'm using for parts... I can send photos if you want. eric

--
Eric Mackey
Great Lakes and Beyond
NACRA 5.5 18sq & 5.2
--

That sounds like a good opportunity for you!

If that doesn't work out or if you are looking for other parts you can also PM Dan Berger http://www.thebeachcats.com/profile/view/DanBerger and Prindle Pete http://www.thebeachcats.com/profile/view/pbegle they may be able to hook you up.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Thx both you guys!!
My wish list for this "Bargin boat" is.. entire rudder setup.. Jib blocks and tramp wires.. Diamond wire setup.. Wires shackels and spar. (Might be worth it to get a new later model spar) .. Front bridle.. Tramp.. Might need a set of trap lines. May have an old hobie pair that would work?? Center pole if I get a old style tramp.. I do have a mast from a 6.0 HOw fast would i be going with that in the air?? Wonder if I could just flip the old tramp over and leave the pole off?? Also.. What about running a custom tramp over the pole so the deck would be smooth and angled a bit to drain quickly??
May have found some stuff here in Calif. We have a guy who parts out boats in Cal-South. He is checking on a boat..

For my better boat.. Still looking for some cool decals like Wolfie has.. Sent an email to a place in Fl. but no response so far.. Also .. Is that no slip that I see on the rails in all the pix the 2' stuff from Murrys?? Hobies had the fat rug stuff.. Hated it !! SOOO glad to be in the nacra camp.. Thx again.. Hope to hit it wed.. WE have been having real cold weather, but windy as hell.. He He.. Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

OK, take a look at he guy selling the Prindle 16 stuff on the for sale ads here. He has the jib blocks and main sheet you need. There are a number of adds for stuff like that at good prices on there.

Jib wires, Just use 3/16" dyneema or vectran line covered in a plastic wire cover (like is used on shrouds).

Get a new rigging set from murray's it's not worth it trying to get used rigging, it is too dangerous.

Get rid of the center pole by rivetting the beam straps to the beams with stainless rivets (2 for each strap), make sure the boat is aligned correctly before you do this. then use any tramp you like.

The 6.0 mast will work, it has the same cross section and castings as the 5.2 it is just longer, I can get you a measurement on mine this weekend if you like.

The grip tape on my boat is the murray's 2". It works great, if you rip it you just put more on top or peel it pretty easily.

My decals were custom made locally using a really crappy piece of clipart from the Nacra Web site, it works.

I have an almost new set of sails I might part with cheaply (say $200 for both plus shipping). They have only been used a couple of times but they have some issues. First they were made locally by a tarp manufacturere who copied them from a set of elliot pattersons. So since he knew nothing about sailmaking they are very flat. This is fine for a jib but not so good for the main. Second they are made from 4 oz dacron instead of 5 oz so they are thinner. Other than that, they work, and I have blown the doors off an H16 using them. I was going to keep them and use them as storm sails - I won't sell them unless the person knows what they are getting. PM me and I can take some photos and send them if interested.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

I do decals. PM me for my contact info
If you look in the gallery you will see pics of my old 5.2 with a few decals on it. The folder is listed as Turbocat's 5.2 or something similar.



Edited by TurboCat on Jun 15, 2011 - 09:48 AM.

I actually loved the pole down the center on the 5.2! I have actually thought about using one on my P19. That pole kept me from sliding across the tramp several times

Hey Turbo, I think we talked a while back about decals. I still think I need a little something more. If you can hook me up we should talk!

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

TurboCat

I do decals. Page3teddy@me.com
If you look in the gallery you will see pics of my old 5.2 with a few decals on it. The folder is listed as Turbocat's 5.2 or something similar.

Hey Turbo, shoot me a PM or email, I've been looking for you.

Is you old page3 yahoo email not working? You should not post your real email on the web, it gets picked up by all manner of evil spam bots. Update your email in the Member Panel and then have folks send you a private message ( you get an email notification IF your account email is correct. )

--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

How To Create Your Signature

How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
--

Wolfman, where did you get your sails? Mine is in definate need of a new set. The two sailmaking houses I contacted never got back to me. I'm in michigan (not that it matters where the sails come from). THX.

Turbo, do you have a contact for Randy Smyth? I can't find any solid info online.



Edited by Duckdown on Jun 14, 2011 - 03:12 PM.

Contact Chip Buck a Whirlwind Sails! He did my new flat top main and my canadian flag jib just shipped! His prices are reasonable, his product is top notch! I will warn you though that he has taken a pretty significant position with North Sails in Annapolis so getting sails can take a bit of time. That being said they are worth the wait, and most good lofts are super busy this time of year! I learned the hard way and now that I found a great sailmaker I'm sticking with him for life! Also make sure you call him!! He doesn't check his Whirlwind e-mail very often. PM me and I can give you his other e-mail address that goes to his blackberry.

Regards,
Dave

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

For good price & quality,, I suggest Chip Buck @ Whirlwind Sails 619-925-5229 I think. Pete

So the big day approaches.. Hope I dont do a dive the the AC 45. Saw som great pix of her on local TV.. Talk about publicity !!!
Last min questions. Had both sails up her today !!! Thx for the jib rig comments.. Real clear why the stress has to be on the forestay!! BUT.. How about cliping the blocks on the grommet on the jib instead of using the short pieces of line.. Looks like less chance to tangle with the bungie and the lines and wires on the mast.. (OK.. It is the way I did it on my Hobie..) But it seems logicial and easier to rig.. Now the main. WOW.. Nice. Big!! I am using the set from my bargin boat cuz the jib has a better zipper. I was not able to get much mast rake even with the stay in the top hole in the chain plate.. Not sure why. May not need it now.. It looker rather square. Perhaps a smidg over.. Any measuring tips?? And could not get the main to shape well.. Cranked the downhaul.. Still had wrinkles along the mast AND.. The traveler for the clue for the main was all the way out and there was shi* for tention in the bottom seam of the main?? For the main sheet block set , I have a Harken 6/1 with a extra single pulley on the becket so the sheet tacks to the boom. (Cuz I am old and wimpy) Got the rig mega tight and still no tention on the lower part of the sail seam.. It does not look streched. The bolt rope stays in the extrusion. And the down haul is singing.. Looked like a huge pocket in the lower part of the mail sail and not just close to the mast???.. Have some of the new sheets and lines installed but SLO here in CA gave me some that were rather thin and undersized when I bought the set. Spoke to them about it and they have others coming. News at 11 on how that works.. Going to use the old rudder system with out pivomatics this time.. Any advice here.. Did not have time to get them installed

Packing up tomorrow and then a local lake Thr i hope. Pix to follow. Thank you, you all for the words and wisdom. Makes the transition much easier.. Finally some warmer weather her in CA ...It has been june-uary again this year. You all got to come out some time. Would love to host. Cheers Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

I've done it both ways and I like having the leader line on the jib blocks a little better, and they tend to bind less for some reason. Try both ways, it won't hurt anything.

Put the boat on level ground and use the main halyard to approximately measure mast rake, it should be close to straight up and down, if the halyard hangs to the ports just behing the front beam you should be fine. If you need put a second chain plate on the forestay to get a little more length (old hobie 16 trick).

Hmm, you should be able to stretch the hell out of the main both with the 3:1 downhaul and outhaul. Are you sure you have the right sail? Is your sail set right to the top of the mast? Maybe the bullet on the halyard slipped at some time. Otherwise you may need to get the sail altered a little bit.

You will want 3/8" mainsheet and 5/16" jibsheets if you can do it. Otherwise your hands will get tired pretty quick. 6:1 and 7:1 mainsheet system is fine. I've run 5:1 and that was way too small, I just got and 8:1 low pro because I'm old also.

Sailing without the pivmatics is fine, the boats existed for almost 15 years without kickup rudders and the daggers don't kick up anyway. Just don't hit anything!! You will break the rudders or tear out the gudgeons. :)

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

++Thx Dave.. I used the center bar to establish level to check the rake THought that would work. Bee interesting how far off plumb it is when the boat is in the water. The bottom of the hulls may not be the right guage too !! After all, the rake is judged by how it sits in the water , right?? What about the fat a**s on the tramp that change the geomontry. (my spelling is sooo bad) I will check out the sail after a day of sailing. Who knows how long it has been since it has been tight. It does have 5.2 decals but no Nacra on it.. The main and the jib sheet are not the prob from SLO .. It is the down hauls and the rudder lines and the clew and mast rotation lines that are too small.. We will see how they respond. They are one of the best her in CA and I am supprised.. I sail in a lake that is a bit shallow, however the bottom is mush. Hope to have a good first time with her.. News soon I hope. My crew is off on a camping trip to navada. Hope he is back.. HOWEVER.. I took down the mast today and was supprised how different it was from my old H16. Qiute light... If I used the main down haul to hold the mast in the socket might be able to do it myself alone !! Not confidant however to take out a new girl by my self.. Old.. Lame but smart.. Cheers Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

Yeah, it's a bit of a trick. Best thing is to just sail it and adjust rake to your liking over time. As long as it isn't raked forward you will be OK. More of an art than a science. You may be able to install a clew plate on the sail to get enough outhaul, the downhaul is trickier. The sail could be stretched and blown out but that is a lot of stretch.

The mast will be lighter than an H16, the diamond wires allowed them to go with a thinner aluminum section. You will be surprised when you step it, once you are on one end without the leverage it feels much heavier. Some people do step single handed but I never have, I always have someone on the forestay just for safety.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

I have a 5.2 also and have two of the same issues you describe. I had a prindle 16 for a couple of years before getting my 5.2 late last season. I've gotten used to it now, but still not real happy with it.

1) my main sail when cranked down hard with a 3:1 system still leaves a good 10 inches of space above the boom right at the mast. Seems like a lot of wasted potential sail space. The only good thing is that it's a nice "window"

2) My main does not seem to outhaul very well as it maxes out to the very end of the boom. I'm okay with this, but I wouldn't mind being able to outhaul it more to depower some on heavy air days. Seems like the sail is too long for the boom or vice versa. The folks at Murray's did tell me that it is not a native Nacra Boom. (I happen to live 15 minutes from them so brought it in on a seperate issue and they made that observation)

I'm looking forward to removing the post down the center of the tramp after this season. For now, I'm merely dealing with it and getting used to the boat and developing ideas on how to bring it to 2012 for next year!!

-Scott
Santa Barbara, CA
Nacra 5.2

Scott.. I just got a secont "Fix up" 5.2 off Craigs. Checked the boom and the only difference is that one has 3 tacks for the Main sheet and one has 1. They were the same length. That stock may not be too hard to find so one could get some to add a bit of length.. One note of caution. I got a sheet/line kit from SLO in Paso.. We are dealing with a prob on line diamater.. I will let you know how that comes out..
So did your 5.2 come from the beach there in town?? I spoke to that guy several times. Get a good deal?? How about a sail day for the girls midway. I am in Livermore.. I have a friend who stors his H20 here on my ranch.. He sails a lake down that way that he likes.. Has nice camping (he has 3 kids and rents a RV). Mabey meet there some time. I am off to Woodward out in the valley by Oakdale tomorrow for the first sail on mine. News at 11.. Nice to have a friend closer than Canada.. I will never get him out here.. Will PM you with contact info when I get a chance.. Cheers Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

P.S. On closer inspection, Looks like the outhaul unit could be moved aft !! About 3-4 inches. Going to play with it tomorrow. Cheers Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

Duckdown

Wolfman, where did you get your sails? Mine is in definate need of a new set. The two sailmaking houses I contacted never got back to me. I'm in michigan (not that it matters where the sails come from). THX.

Turbo, do you have a contact for Randy Smyth? I can't find any solid info online.Edited by Duckdown on Jun 14, 2011 - 03:12 PM.

I do have his contact info somewhere around here. Let me look tonight after work and i will post it for u.

I think he was at Sure Sails but im not 100% certain. Will let you know.

damonAdmin

TurboCat

I do decals. Page3teddy@me.com
If you look in the gallery you will see pics of my old 5.2 with a few decals on it. The folder is listed as Turbocat's 5.2 or something similar.

Hey Turbo, shoot me a PM or email, I've been looking for you.

Is you old page3 yahoo email not working? You should not post your real email on the web, it gets picked up by all manner of evil spam bots. Update your email in the Member Panel and then have folks send you a private message ( you get an email notification IF your account email is correct. )

Hey Damon i shot you a PM.

Dave/Wolf - I can hook you up just shoot me a PM with colors and design idea and we can go from there. I need approx size so i can determine if my machine is up to the job. More than likely it is. I havent come across something too big to cut yet.

Will do, I will get something together. Nothing too difficult. Do you screen print and/or computer cut the vinyl? What I hve in mind could be done either way.

D.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Guy's
One thing i learned sailing the 5.2 was that bow down was far faster than bow up. When the bow cuts the water in the bow down position it cuts the water with the front edge. When sailing it bow up it is cutting the water with the bottum of the hull which creates more suface area and a much more blunt surface. GPS showed that i was able go 2-3mph faster with the bow down in bay type conditions. The 5.2 can handle some serious stuffs of the bow so if your messing around next time out give it a try and see if your speed increases. The bow cuts the water easier but it also lifts the transoms slightly which gets rid of that sucking sound. That sucking sound is slowing you down.

Not a huge performance gain but it did help a little

TurboCat

Duckdown

Wolfman, where did you get your sails? Mine is in definate need of a new set. The two sailmaking houses I contacted never got back to me. I'm in michigan (not that it matters where the sails come from). THX.

Turbo, do you have a contact for Randy Smyth? I can't find any solid info online.Edited by Duckdown on Jun 14, 2011 - 03:12 PM.

I do have his contact info somewhere around here. Let me look tonight after work and i will post it for u.

I think he was at Sure Sails but im not 100% certain. Will let you know.

850-243-9463

--
Philip
--

Agreed, the boat seems to like to have the lee hull somewhat submerged. I have run it under almost all the way to the front beam. Probably a better idea to keek it closer to the bridle but you know what i mean. Even keeping the fore/aft balanced the bow will be submerged.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

the goose marine 5.2 tuning article always confused me a bit with this statement

7. Boat Trim.…………...When sailing to windward and reaching in flat
water have leeward Bow driving in to about 50mm before
deck.

i now read it as to have about a hand span of leeward bow above the water when sailing on 1 hull, you can even go a little lower on very flat lake water, but if you go too low, even with the bow just out of the water, about half way along the bow the water will flow back over the top of the hull until it hits the beam and send then fire up vertically like a firehose

looks quite good from the beach but that water hitting the beam with such force must slow things down

Hal - sounds good! I'm a beach guy - surfer & long time lifeguard so partial to ocean. Lakes I know with sailing Lake Lopez in San Luis Obisbo. Lake Cachuma is close to here. I'm off til mid July on Vacation. Look forward to the better winds of late summer SB!

-Scott

--
Scott
1982 Nacra 5.2 "Great White"
Ledbetter Beach, Santa Barbara, CA
--

Hi All.. Well Good news and Bad... Got the 5.2 to a good size lake here in Cal-north on thrs. Took way too long to set up cuz all the pins were the spring type and I am slow with them.. (Old age and bad eyes) Blowing 6 to 8 mph.. Stronger gusts.. Had a friend along who had never sailed a cat. Got in the water about 12.. Wow. nice speed.. Need the pivmatics installed cuz ther was a bit of weather helm.. The deck is a pain in the a**.. I am 6.2 at just over a tenth of a ton.. My friend much smaller.. What a tiny tramp and sooo cluttered compaired to my old H18 & 16.. Hate the bar down the center. Hate the above jib lines above the tramp..

Also thought with daggers, that she would tack better than she did.. Tried to unsheet the jib during the "come about".. Irons both times. Tried the backwind till we both had changed sides and then un-sheet. That worked but we caried no speed through the tack.. And try to get 2 fat a**es under that boom and over the center bar quickly was tough. getting caught in the jib sheet and the main sheet.. Wonder if I could relocate the boom mount higher on the mast to try to get more room to cross the deck. Seems like a lot of waisted space between the boom and the sail.. She did point well however..

I came away wondering if the 5.2 is the boat for me.. Not sure if I want to spend the time and cash on upgrades on the boat and not end up enjoying her performance?? I left the boat at the lake that night with friends in the local fleet here and returned Fri, but alas .. NO wind.. Going to try one more day in her present condition and then decide..

Thanks for all the posts to help me.. Cheers Hal

--
Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
--

you're going through much the same issues as golfdad75 did last year when converting from crusiey H16 to more race oriented N5.2

maybe go through this thread

http://www.thebeachcats.com/forums/viewtopic/topic/11901

and also do some searching on nacra 5.2

you can easily remove the tramp tube and convert the jib block lines to under-tramp to open up more space on the tramp. do that before you start messing with the boom height

only you will know if it's worth it



Edited by erice on Jun 18, 2011 - 06:07 PM.

here is the deal... if you are a little older...and you don't race hard core...you will go only a little faster for a lot more hassel than you would on a prindle or hobie 16....period.

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Well yes the bar is a pain, so are the jib wires. Took care of those issues and love the boat. It cost about $50 to have a canvas shop sew the jib cutouts. As far as tacking do not throw the helm over too hard. Also keep the slot open, that was the biggest go fast I learned. As far the boom height I don't think it is much different. The weather helm issue has nothing to do with pivmatics, it probably your rudders are not going all the way down. However pivmatics are cheap compared to reglassing your stern.



Edited by golfdad75 on Jun 18, 2011 - 07:28 PM.

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Nacra 5.2
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The 5.2 is certainly a more complicated boat than a prindle or hobie 16 But I still love it. The main culprit for making it cramped for sitting is usually the daggerboard but the jib lines, barberhaulers and center beam also contribut to that. There a number of simple changes you can make to realy improve comfort. Most have us have done most if not all of these. If you aren't racing there are a couple of tricks so make is easier.

To clean off the tramp.
1. Jib Lines under the tramp
First get yourself a wishbone type pop riveter from harbor freight (about $20).
Make an order from murrays or west marine or whatever local boat shop is available for the following:
30 - 3/8"long by 3/16" diameter stainless steel rivets.
4 - stainless steel fairleads.
Get a #4 grommet tool from murray's with some grommets (pricey at $36 but worth it, or you can borrow one)
20 ft of 3/16" vectran or dyneema rope
A split shroud cover or lenght of plastic hose

Look at where you jib lines are attached to the beams and drill and rivet the fairleast at the same location under the trampoline. In the tramp itelf place 2 grommets for the jib lines One just behind the daggerboard one just in front. Run the low stretch line though the 2 grommets only abot the tramp for that 2 or so feet and attach to the fairleads as tightly as you can. Protect the line above the tramp with the split shroud cover or hose. Attach the jib blocks so they are right beside the dagger and run a line back through the grommet to the rear fairlead to keep it in position. Moving the blocks forward loses you a bit of performance but gains you space on the tramp.

2. Remove the barberhaulers if you got them.
Again these aren't really needed unless you are want high performance.

3. Remove the central beam.
Make sure the beams are setup properly and simply rivet the beam straps to the beams. Remove the central beam and front casting. Leave the rear casting as a handy foot rest when you are on the helm (especially useful when you are tall).

Likely a days work and close to $100 investment.

Weather helm.

Likely you aren't getting the rudders down far enough. If yours are adjustable adjust the screws so they are forward all the way. If they aren't you probably aren't getting them down far enough. There is a pin in the castings that yoru downhaul has to go OVER. If you don't do that it is harder to get them down. If you are still having problems you can rig up a 2:1 downhaul pretty easilty with a couple of small blocks and some extra line. I have a picture of that here:
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=74162 that got rid of all my weather helm issues.


Tacking

Tacking is a little different process than on an H16 and can be tricky until you get the hang of it, I think because of the hull shape. Anyway here is something to practice.

1. Prior to the tack make sure you and your crew are close to the rear of the bot and on the hull.
2. Make sure you are pointing as high as you can with speed.
3. To Start the tack gently push the rudder to about 45 degrees (not hard over!!)
4. Stay on that hull until you are head to wind (so the leeward hull is light in the water and will come around faster).
5. When you are head to to wind or a little past blow a foot of traveller , do NOT release the jib.
6. When you are past head to wind smoothly move to the other side to end up at the dagger (don't move the rudder, don't release the jib). Make sure you do this before you are so far over that the hull you are on starts to sink and you threaten to capsize.
7. When you are on the new tack, release the jib and set. Bring the mainsail back in and trim as needed.

You can also improve things a bit by raking the mast back 12-18". But then you will get a little more helm.

It sound complicated but once you do it a few times you won't even think about it any more.

Setup

The trick to a quick setup is to leave as much of the boat put together as possible and use quick pins for the running rigging and various connections.
Once you get your rig set to where you like it. Remove as few things as possible to trailor it. Velcro or bungie ties are your friend!
For instance when you bring the mast down and release the forestay, immediately bungie your trap wires forestay, halyards and shrouds to it. Move the whole unit onto your mast support and secure (this way you don't have to rig all the pins again). Instead of removing the rudders tie them into the up position and secure the whole works to the rear beam for trailoring. Leave your jib sheets rigged if you can.

Get yourself some quick pins!! You can use the cheap detent pins to attach your boom to the gooseneck and your rudder cross beam and hiking stick to the rudders. To attach the main block to the traveler car and the boom use Snap shackles. If you can find the Victory brand ones they are quite a bit cheaper than Harken or Ronstan. Yes they may not be as high quality but I have yet to break them and use them on both sides of the main block and to attack my jib sheet to the jib clew.

To attach your jib to the jib hanger and the main sail to the outhaul car get the high quality push button quick pins, you need the strength and security there. I normally store my boat mast up but when i do trailor I can get the boat together if about 15-20 minutes whith all that stuff.

If you do all that the only ring ding clevis pin you will need to use is on the forestay. You do not want to use a quick pin there.

Hope that helps. I think the main problem with the boat is probably the fact that it is so different than what you are used to. I hope you stick with it a bit and see if you can figure it all out. I know I love mine! If you need more advice or if you think I said something that wont work for you feel free to post or pm me. I know others will have different options an opinions than I have for sure, but that has been my experience.

Regards,
Dave

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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Quote

The main culprit for making it cramped for sitting is usually the daggerboard but the jib lines, barberhaulers and center beam also contribut to that. There a number of simple changes you can make to realy improve comfort.

The simplest is to buy a 5.0 or a 5.7! No boom, no boards, no clutter. Just a wide open tramp for the gals to sun on



Edited by Edchris177 on Jun 19, 2011 - 07:10 PM.

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Don't rub it in. If I could find one and had the money I would get one. A 5.7 more than a 5.0. ;)

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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Thanks to all for the instruction. Going to slowly start on the changes for the boat to see if we are compatable.. Can I get the center bar out with out removing the tramp?? Rather not cut the bar.. And rather sure I cant with the tramp on any way. I was going to try to drill the rivets on the front xmember and slide the casting to the side a bit so I did not have to relace the tramp. Might hang out with the jib block wires for the summer and wait till winter to take off the tramp

I am having issues with the folks I got the new line/sheeet kit from. Most of the lines are smaller than what is on there now. They say that they are all standard Nacra size. Found a chart from salty dog and there are a few differences. Any one got a link from Nacra for the sizes?? Especially the rudder lines. Looking at some of the pix in the photo section here, the lines look some what larger than what i got..

With regard to relocating the jib block wire... I have seen some pixs showing the blocks mounted further out toward the rail than they are stock. I assume that that would take a barberhauler setup to trim the slot.. I nave none installed now.
Is the space (9 to 10 inches) that that line runs above the tramp enough to adjust the block for good performance?? It will need a second small line running back to the rear xmembar to secure and tack the block, right??

There is always a invite if you are in Cal N. Got an extra cat or two to use!! Cheers Hal

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Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
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You may be able to squeek the bar out if you drill out all the casting rivets on the front beam and slide it out. Maybe.

A listing of the lines sizes can be found here: http://www.columbussailin…_16_18_18-2_19_parts.pdf

Technically the jib blocks should be mounted about 30" from the rear beam. You can mount them more forward as long as it leaves you enough line to trim the jib. I believe I run my lines about 8" from the hulls. You don't really need the barberhauler setup.

Yes you need a second small line running to the rear beam to hold the jib blocks in position. 3/16" line works fine for this. You don't need much exposed jib line running above the tramp. 90% of people set the location once and never change it. If you are going to live with the above tramp lines for this season, play with the locations a bit and see where the best place for them is.

D.



Edited by Wolfman on Jun 23, 2011 - 12:56 PM.

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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Wolfman, that is exactly how I got rid of my center bar.
Halliske, maybe they are delivering the lines in millimeter sizes in stead of US imperial?

OK Guys. Going to try to get the center post out today.. Worst case.. I can cut it first cuz the tramp cover is not covering the whole post.. The guy at New England cats suggested that I cut the tramp tube cover off with a "hot knife" Not sure what that is but frogot to ask. By the way.. They still stock the smaller mast balls.. Pricy but they have some..

Now time for a righting line.. The boat came with the end caps off of the front xmember and a line in each side with a bungi to a small block anchored to the oppsite side of the tube. How the hell would one get it out of the tube unless you were 7 ft tall?? Anyone got a plan that works.. I have no pockets in my tramp.. Thx Hal

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Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness

I Need a A Cat Please
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Why dont u keep the tramp tube cover on the trampoline. You could put waters in the back and righting line up in the front. If i didnt have any pockets i wouldnt get rid of it.

As for getting through the beams just use one of your battens to go from side to side. i actually have a old broken fishing pole i use for mine. Small diamater pvc, batten, etc

Here is an easy righting line setup. The righting line is the thick line in the middle of the photo. I just bundle it up & leave it sit at the mast base. To keep it neater, you could put a "hockey elastic" around it. That keeps it all in a small package right at the mast base, though it usually takes a capsize for it to come off the tramp. Use a thick line, flip your boat, then throw the line over & try it. You will have to try it once to see where to place strategic knots as hand holds. I put a 1,5" SS ring in one of the knots, just where it lets me hang horizontal. That way I can put the ring on the harness hook, & use my arms for manipulating a bag, or just getting a rest while a buddy gets organized


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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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