Hello,

I want to change all the wires in my Prindle 16 (both shrouds, forstay and trapeze wires). I am not sure about the year of the boat, but it has no port holes and no numbers. I am guessing early seventies.
I recently had some pentex squaretop sails made by Whirlwind Sails and it is flying. My problem is that the wires are old, but I think not not original. I am not convinced of the accuracy of their lenghts. I would buy the whole new set, but I live in Chile and the transport would be too expensive.
I wondered if someone has the exact measures. I have not been able to find them.
I can have them made here at a reasonable price but importing them would be too expensive or too slow.

Thanks in advance,

Juan

Can the place making them just take measurements off your old ones?

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

Hi,
Yes, but in my opinion the shrouds are a bit longer than they should be, and maybe the forstay a bit shorter. I can reduce an inch here and add an inch there but the best would be to have the "official" measures.

mines an 18 but I have some 16 standing rigging I just can't say for sure if it's a standard length. I assume it is but I have never seen it in use I just picked it up with a bunch of spare parts off a 16. If I can remember and have time this weekend I might can measure it.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--

That would be great, thanks!

The early 70's P-16 had a jib halyard system like the present Hobie 16 does. Does your jib have a wire in the luff or is it a newer version zipper luff. The reason I ask is the forestay will be different. The newer one will have an upper and lower forestay connected with a shackle and a stainless steel ring attached to one for the jib halyard to run through.

Mine had a block that run through the ferestay, and that was/is connected to the halyard with a shackle. No ring, no S shape hook.
The luff of the original jib was wire which I updated to zipper recently.
That and the fact that mine has no portholes made me think it is an early 70´s P16.
The problem with the lenghts is that with the shrouds at the lowest possible position, it is not raked aft as I want and would expect.

Thanks

Sailed a P 16 for several years.
Your shrouds, forestay, and trap wires should all have ajusters. The wire in the jib luff becomes the forestay when you adjust the tension - The shroud adjusters set the mast rake when you want to "change gears " More mast rake means better upwind,
less mast rake is better for downwind. I always set my mast rake to where the main halyard contacts the tramp at 18 - 20 in. behind the front beam when just hanging from the top of the mast.
This boat is a race horse if set up properly, and will beat a H16 in any wind condition.
When you get out on the Trap. you need an adjuster, so you can move fwd/aft as conditions change.
When you want to change shroud adjustments, have a crew member or a passing hottie hold the trap wire on the other side while you move the pin in tha adjuster.
Catamara Sailing From Start to Finish, by Phill Burnam is the best book in the world on cat sailing.
It is old but still covers the basics very well.

Hope this helps.
abubba

Thanks, it is indeed very helpfull. Specially the part for meeting hotties
I have read and re-read the book by Burman, it is excellent.