OK- so I'm getting better with my 5.2 now that I have sailed it 7-8 times. I can rig in an hour- down from 2 when I first got it. I have gotten to the point that I can ask some useful questions which I didn't know needed asking until I reached this point. I'm sure that many may be found in the old posts, but if I'll ask them here, anyway. What else do y'all have to do on the computer besides read these posts, like me, anyway?

Rig tension- My rig always seems to be very loose. The mast always moved from one side to the other. When sailing with the wind placing tension on the sail, the windward stay is tight and the leeward one is loose to the point of flopping. I have seen this with running stays, but don't think this is right for my situation. I can't adjust the side stays any tighter or the mast won't come all the way up when stepping. I may be able to tighten the forestay, but don't want to if the rig acts as it should.

Helm- Do cats in general have a good deal of weather helm compared to monohulls? I don't seem to remember needing to have as strong a grip in the tiller on monohulls as I do this boat. Can this be due to balance? I have tried positioning my butt and the crew's fore and aft, but still seem to experience a good bit of helm either way.

Tacks- When tacking, I backwind the jib until the boat comes about and the main fills, but this still does not seem to be very efficient at changing directions and getting going on the new tack quickly. Again- old monohull sailor here. Aside from crew experience, any other helpful tips here?

BTW- if you ever get a chance to go to the Virgin Islands, be sure to sign up for a sail on the Americas Cup boats at St. Martin. This was the highlight of my trip (second to standing at the end of Princess Juliana Airport) when I was on a cruise in 2008.

Thanks

--
Eric C

Force 5 project boat
Unnamed

Previous boat
1980 Nacra 5.2
"Double Vision"
--

I don't know anything specific about the rig tension on the Nacra 5.2 but yes, when sailing upwind the leward shroud will be very loose. You can't have super tight shrouds on a beachcat like you might have on a keelboat because of the need for the mast to rotate on the cat.

Weather Helm - No, cats don't automatically have more helm pressure than monos. Lots of things affect helm feel and there is a difference between true weather helm and how hard you have to pull the tiller to stay into the wind.

To understand the science behind weather helm read and digest this article, it's old but the science is still the same.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…s/15/about-weather-helm/

--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

How To Create Your Signature

How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
--

Rig tension, as the mast rotates It will tighten the rig. It should be loose enough that the mast track can rotate to maybe 10 deg. in front of the main beam. To get the rig tight enough on my 5.8 I would have the fore stay and the port stay in the proper holes. Crew would pull on a starboard trap wire so I could move it to the correct hole. For putting the mast up I would have the starboard adjuster in the top hole to allow for easy fore stay connection.

Helm If you have weather helm " boat wants to turn to up wind " with the boards and rudders all the way down the mast has to much rake. Running with out a jib or the jib not sheeted in enough can also cause weather helm.

I never had any trouble tacking in light to medium air. As it gets windier since the traveler and main sheet were not tight I would miss tacks. Pulling in on the main or traveler during tacks helped solve this.



Edited by skarr1 on May 19, 2011 - 11:35 AM.

Steve- Good idea with the trap wire. My boat only came with one when I bought it and I removed it as I don't have a harness nor the balls to hang out over the hull just yet. I'll install it (the wire :-0) and try your technique.

E

--
Eric C

Force 5 project boat
Unnamed

Previous boat
1980 Nacra 5.2
"Double Vision"
--

Rig tension- you need it to be loose enough for the mast to rotate, that being said I like to adjust the forestay for mast rake first (very little on a 5.2) and then tension the rig at the shrouds. Adjust both of them equally to a pin position where there is a bit of tension on the rig. Then go to one side and move it one down, go to the otherside, grab a trap wire and lean on it to get the other one in place. If you have to put your full weight on the trap wire to get it to go in then it is likely too tight and you should set it one pin up. When sailing the windward shroud takes all the load (along with the leeward diamond wire. The leeward wire will be loose and flop around, nothing to worry about.


Helm- No the helm should be almost neutral. If it isn't check to make sure that the rudders are fully cinched down (very important), if you can't put enough force to get them all the way down you can rig a 2:1 purchase system to make sure. Here is my system: http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=74162


If the rudders are all the way down check the rudder alignment as per the manual (you can download it in the technical help gallery), you may need to get a length of aluminum tube if the rudders are out of alignment and you don't have an adjustser. If that fails you can 'rake' the rudders forward a bit either with an adjuster screw (you likely don't have one) or by filing away the rudder at the contact point with the transom. Don't do this unless you are absolutely sure that this is your problem as it is not easy to undo.


Tacks- When tacking, make sure your main is tight and centered. And you and your crew should be huddled near the back windward corner of the boat (so the bows are up a bit). Push the rudder over smoothly about 45 degrees and let the boat come about, looking at your wind indicator wait until you can come straight on and through the wind about 10 degrees. Then move under the boom and send the crew towards teh front beam on the new windward side and put yourself on the daggerboard. Make sure you do not move the rudder while you are doing this, if you straighten it, you will lose the tack, if you push over harder you will brake and also lose the tack. When you are over about 20 degrees off the wind, blow the traveler about a foot or so and release the jib to get you over the rest of the way with speed. When back on course reset the sails and traveler and continue on.

What this whole procedure does is let you pivot most of the way around the windward daggerboard and only move the load onto the other daggerboard after you have mostly competed the turn. This way the turning radius is shorter and you can get around faster before you lose your momentum.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

From the 5.2 manual
Click the photo to read.








Edited by skarr1 on May 19, 2011 - 01:16 PM.