New to this forum, so hello. I just bought a 2000 NACRA 500 this past Friday. Up until now I've been on Hobie 18's and turbo 14's. After my first 2 days I really like the boat. I have a couple questions though. One, I was having trouble with my jib slipping down after some sailing, especially in more wind. I think the line used on the halyard is slipping in the v jam cleat on the bridle connector. I was thinking a little bit bigger line might fix this? My other question is about mast rotation. On my 18 I had the control arm for that and the 14 has the stops on the mast step. Am I missing something or does the 500 not have rotation adjustment?

What other types of boats would the 500 be comparable with? I do some racing, but there are mostly f18's and Acats there along with the occasional Hobie 18 and 16. Would love to hear any experience with the 500 and your take on the boat.....

--
Mac
Midlands South Carolina
AHPC Viper USA 366
A Cat USA 366
Super Cat 17
--

Congratulations! That is one of my 2 all time favorite boats!

I'm assuming you have the steel v jam cleat on your forestay. Those cleats have a tendancy to slip sometimes. You can try a thicker jib halyard but likely the simplest solution is when you cleat it, bring the line up and tie 3 half hitches around the forestay and adjuster plate above the cleat. THis way you are assured it won't slip and it shouldn't be too difficult to untie at the end of the day.

Rotation adjustment on the 5.0 or 500 is handled by 2 cleats on the front beam (or just behind the front beam on the hull) and a line to at wishbone type bar that protrudes forward from the mast. This lets you set the rotation limits and adjust as necessary. I think that mast rotation control may have been an option on the 500... it certainly would slow you down when the mast overrotates. It is a pretty simple add on if you don't have the required hardware and want to have it.

The N500 is roughly comparable in performance to a Hobie 16, Prindle 16 and the Mystere 5.0. Basically all the 16 ft cats you are likely to see except the F16. That being said it will definitely sail and behave differently than the H16 (haven't sailed the Prindle or Mystere). I personally think that it is a better behaved boat with fewer bad 'habits' (i.e. much less tendancy to pitchpole, less weather helm when tuned properly, more hull volume for crew weight). It is also more forgiving of mistakes. It is a little more complicated to rig than the H16 though, the H16 being once of the simplest rigs going.

You probably won't be able to hang with the F18s or Acats unless you are a much better sailor but then not much can. You should be able to keep up with the other 16 footers though.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Another option is 3mm line and a clam cleat.

If you need less rotation, sheet harder. No need for stops on a boomless rig.

--
Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
--

I have purchased 2 Nacra 500s (a 2008 and a 2010) on behalf of a comunity sailing club in Toronto. They are great boats and are actually simpler than a hobie 16, as there is no boom and the rig tension is not adjustable when sailing.

They are great boats and have met with much wider acceptance in the club than the Hobie 16s did, as they are harder to capsize, easier to right, easier to rig and less crew weight sensitive.

I think the "3 hitches" suggestion is the simplest way to deal with the jib cunningham.

The Portsmouth and Texel ratings for the Nacra 500 are about the same as for the Hobie 16, but I think the Nacra 500 should be slightly faster since it has more efficient sails and lower resistance hulls. The Dart 18 is a couple ticks slower but still in the same ball park. The Hobie 18 is a couple ticks faster.

The mast rotation on the 500 is automatic. As you sheet the main sail tighter for upwind sailing, the mast will rotate back (less rotation) and as you ease off the sheet and/or travel out for downwind sailing the mast will travel out. It's not perfect, but it seems to work pretty good.

There are a bunch of Nacra 500 videos in here: http://www.youtube.com/user/catsailordude

Ed
F18 Infusion
Bladerider Moth
Nacra 500s (community club owned)

I have a 5.7, the big brother to your 5.0. Rotation was an option on these boomless boats. As stated it is mostly automatic. One place it is very useful is light air. If the wind is flaky the mast tends to bang around. You can lock it into the most efficient position. I store my bioat all summer on Lake Simcoe, & when not using it lock the mast to prevent it banging around.
If you want it, it's a very simple upgrade, especially if you already have the fairleads, eyestrap & cleats on the front boom. You only need to buy the wishbone, drill a hole & mount it with a long bolt.
Mine is rigged with a 2:1 purchase, using a single line. I think it was Nacra55 who told me how to do it properly.
Here is the setup. This is an old photo. The line should start at the eyestrap, go through the end of the wishbone, over to one cleat, around the rear of the mast, across the tramp through the other cleat, to the wishbone, then back to the other eystrap & tie off.
Click on photo for full size




Edited by Edchris177 on Jun 21, 2011 - 02:32 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

My jib blocks are on my front crossbar, where you have yours cleated. Guessing I would have to add some cleats to do this? You don't weaken the mast by drilling the holes in it?

--
Mac
Midlands South Carolina
AHPC Viper USA 366
A Cat USA 366
Super Cat 17
--

the old alloy nacra masts are very tough, they may occassionaly bend up top but don't think i've ever heard of a mast base failure starting from a few small holes, the forces are mainly up around the mast hound

I've put LOTS of holes in my mast and beams installing downhaul components and various other add ons. Haven't had a problem.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Wolfman

I've put LOTS of holes in my mast and beams installing downhaul components and various other add ons. Haven't had a problem.

YET

--
Philip
--

Yes, good point Philip. I'm pretty sure the hulls he has in mind are the ones listed here under classifieds, looks like mid 80's decals.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Hey its not like I put 1/4 holes right around the mast!! ;) Unless you are losing more than about 20% of the area around the circumference it is extremly unlikely that you will be weakening the mast or beams very much. Take a look at the bottom of the beams there are 3/8" drain holes drilled on around 3-4" centers along the entire thing.

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Kind of off the topic but anyway. The pin that goes in the mast base when stepping the mast, does it come out once the mast is up?

--
Mac
Midlands South Carolina
AHPC Viper USA 366
A Cat USA 366
Super Cat 17
--

Yes, that just keeps the mast from jumping off of the step while you are raising it. You could leave it in while sailing but if you ever dismasted due to a rigging failure it would also destroy your mast base casting and dolphinstriker. If you have any rig tension at all on the forestay and shrouds it shouldn't be needed.

REgards,
Dave

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--