I have a 91 Mystere 5.0 that I bought a little over a year ago. It is my first cat so I have little experience with design and rigging so let me start by apologizing if I use the wrong terminology. After sailing it for a season I have come to suspect that there is something missing on how the rigging is set up for attaching the jib blocks but so far I haven't been able to find any info to help me figure it out. I'm hoping someone familiar with Mystere's or other cats might help me figure out if my setup is right or not? My 5.0 has a slide rail tethered to a line and a jam cleat that runs on the inside of each hull almost the full length of the tranp. The jib blocks currently clip directly to these slides so the angle of pull can be adjusted from fore to aft by cleating this adjusting line. However, even when adjusted toward the rear of the boat, it is still in my opinion too far outward to properly tune the jib to the main (you can't get it in tight enough to the main). Seems to me like there should be a line with adjustment or maybe a rigging with some loops running across from slide to slide across the tramp to allow you to adjust the angle of pull on the jib?? In other words something to allow you to sheet in tighter, much like the front beam mounted adjustable blocks on other catamarans allow. If someone knows how the boat is supposed to be rigged or has ideas for how to improve the current set-up please pass along descriptions, pictures, etc. I do see that there is someone in my area with a Mystere 4.3 so I'm going to try to contact him and find out how his boat is rigged. Thanks.

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Steve - Texas Gulf Coast

91 Mystere 5.0 (sold)
04 Nacra 570 (sold)
08 Hobie Wave
00 Taipan 4.9
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Hi Steve, the jib blocks dont attach to the car that runs up the top of the tramp track, you are correct, that creates the wrong sheeting angle for upwind sailing (to much outhauled).
you would only want to be out to that far on a deep reach/downwind. you need to be able to pull/release a line (by where you sit) and inhaul (for upwind) or out out haul your jib blocks (downwind).

There should be a little mini block attached to each car. there should also be a wire cable running to the other car on the other tramp track. (i replaced my cable with high tech line in an attempt to make it easier on crew. shins.. didnt help much)

the jib blocks attach to the cable running across via another mini block (under the jib blocks). this will allow them to slide in or out(haul) as you pull/release the control line. I also removed the mini blocks under my jib as i find them to be extra un-needed hardware

a line goes from the base (or becket, or shackle) of the jib block, and then across the tramp, through the mini block on the car and back into a little jam cleat forward in your tramp track.

you can see the blue line in the top pic below, it runs from the little jam cleat on the near beam, under a tramp pocket (designed to keep these exact lines out of the way), into a mini block on the far track, and back out of view in the pocket.. but its attached to the bottom of the jib block unit.

click on the image for bigger view, still hard to see..


Little hard to explain.




also most people run a bungie to "auto-pull" the jib blocks inward as soon as you uncleat them from the jam cleat... i find this also to be extra un-needed gear



Edited by MN3 on Jul 01, 2011 - 11:37 PM.

Andrew, Thanks for the explanation and pictures. It is still difficult for me to see the exact set-up even with the pictures and description but it does give me a good idea of how it is supposed to work. I don't think my boat had this setup originally because it does not have any jam cleats on the hull in this area for securing these lines but it would be nice to know for sure. I think I will start out with a simple line between the cars with loops or rings (no on the fly adjustment) to test the waters and see how much difference it makes. Thanks again for the info.

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Steve - Texas Gulf Coast

91 Mystere 5.0 (sold)
04 Nacra 570 (sold)
08 Hobie Wave
00 Taipan 4.9
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