Ok so just so you know I have read and looked at all the material I can find here, in the tech gallery and other places so I am not looking to start an brand new discussion on something that has bee covered I just wanted ask a couple questions.

First I am fixing the spot from the rear beam to the Centerboard well on an H17 about 12-13 inches wide by 30-36 inches long.

How much Wests do you think I need for that size job? Will the quart do or do I need the Gallon?

If I decide to get the Gallon planning to have some left over for other work. How well does is store and keep after it has been opened? (I plan to have to do some wing pock repairs as well. but am not sure how soon.)

Does it matter what kind of syringes I use. Do I need to get the ones West Marine has or can I use any if I have other sources for cheaper ones. How many do you think I will need.

Do I need any other West Systems additives for this job or will it be fine with just the resin and hardener?

What is best for cleanup?

Is there anything special I need to do when finished to promote curing or anything?

Thanks guys.

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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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a quart will do it, it's more than you think...last on shelf at least 2 years(hardener turns red). i have used both west and standard 3m/bondo brand resin for deck lid injection repairs, can't tell the difference except mucho dinero. got big syringes @ local horse and feed stores(horse syringes) for mayby 2$ a piece or cheaper. last time i was at west, was checking out the west system in a standard caulking tube(2 parts) and was thinking how easy it would be to just mask over the area, drill the holes, and shoot the resin in the holes. think the tubes are 20-25$ each but you holes would need to be a little bigger than syringe hole.

oh yeah, no need for any addatives for curing, esp in summer. coloidal sillica is nice but slows you down a minute(don't breath it!). clean up oozing hole tops with a fresh razor blade while the resin is "green" and pull the tape off. acetone cuts resin for messes. as resin settles in and cures, you can get some dimples or voids left behind. this is where another topping of resin w/coloidal sillica finishes off holes real nice(do this before you pull off tape).



Edited by coastrat on Aug 29, 2011 - 01:35 PM.

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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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A quart should do the trick. Get the slow hardener, 206, and you can work longer. West Systems will last for years. Do the repair in several batches. Get the pumps for measuring!!! The syringes need to be small enough to get into the 1/8" holes you drill. Quantity depends on how fast you work, how many batches and temperature, but don't get into the project and not have the supplies. Use acetone to clean up and get it at your local home repair store. Less expensive.

I always started at one end of the repair and as the holes started to overflow, I cleaned the excess off, and put a piece of pre-cut tape over the hole.

And be VERY careful not to drill a hole in the inner skin. One or two will happen. Cover those with tape from the inside before you start injecting epoxy.

Spinakerjohn

If you're going to install an inspection port to deal with the wing tube, you might wanna do that first, to aid with this repair. (If you drill all the way through for example). Also, you can put some layers of glass inside, covering the whole area if you want to.

Did you remember to buy a box of gloves? You can only use them once, as the epoxy you get on them tends to stay sticky for a long time. Easier to just rip them off & put new ones on each time you use a tube of epoxy.
I find the 3M Bondo kicks off pretty quick when mixed as recommended. The West slow hardener is much better for this type of job, it allows you working time, & will make sure that the product can flow into all the crannies.
Organization before you start mixing the first batch is key. Think through how exactly you are going to go about it. This way you can have bits of tape precut & stuck to the hull, pieces of cloth precut to size if needed, any required tool at hand, etc.
This is especially important when you go to fix the dagger well. You will immediately get resin on your gloves, this makes it a pain to suddenly discover you need another piece of cloth, & all that is left is a full sheet.
If you plan on making an album to document it, get someone else to standby with the camera, & direct them to take photos.

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Thanks guys all great info.

It is a well worn H17. It all ready has Ports behind the rear Beam in front of the Centerboards and about mid bow on each hull. If anything I might be looking at removing ports and glassing them in especially on the bows. It looks like there was a repair done one hull where there was some roller damage.

I am not sure the closest ports to the wing socket that needs the most work is close enough for me to reach in and do anything. I am going to have to evaluate if I would be better off to re-glass the current port and move it forward or create and access from the hull like the Hobie Hotline has is one of it's repair guides.

Anyone have any experience with wing sockets on an H17 or other Hobie with wing sockets?

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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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Tons of info on this very active forum (use the search engine for wing tubes):

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=15&sid=69dc9c6e0ea5a18b44fdec8a448770c3