I am reworking the rudders on the Prindle 16 and now ready to reassemble. I know how the lines were rigged when I took it apart, but I am not convinced that it was correct. Can someone direct me to a diagram of the line routing through the rudder casting? I have found some use two lines. One for lifting and one for release. How is this rigged?
Any help is appreciated.

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Machineman
"El Terrible"
Prindle 16 ('82)
St. Louis (S. IL)
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See if this helps you get on track and if not check back.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=72612



Edited by Quarath on Jan 13, 2012 - 01:38 PM.

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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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Does anyone happen to know the sheave size? mine are all cracked and shot to hell. If not I'm going to bring one with me to my local store.

Along the lines of rudders I saw someone put a pin between the 2 cast parts to hold the rudders in the up position, i assume for trailering. Anyone else doing this or are most people just wrapping the base of the blades in extra cord.

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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
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Thanks for the help. I just run new line in the last half hour. The photos made the job very easy.
In reference to locking the rudders in the up position for towing, I am removing my rudders and castings for towing. It is really pretty quick and worth the potential wear and tear on the rudders. IMHO

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Machineman
"El Terrible"
Prindle 16 ('82)
St. Louis (S. IL)
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I just use a piece of rope between the rudder and the casting to hold mine up when trailering

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85 Prindle 16
"If you aint the lead dog the view never changes"
North Carolina
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machineman

In reference to locking the rudders in the up position for towing, I am removing my rudders and castings for towing. It is really pretty quick and worth the potential wear and tear on the rudders. IMHO

I concur, my metal brother!
We had two P 16s, my friend and I. I always removed by rudders altogether, where he left them on the boat. It was an hour and 15 minutes each way to our local lake. After a year of trailering, the slop between his aluminum castings and the steel pintle pin was aggravating enough during sailing that he drilled out his castings and epoxied in brass bearings.

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Rudders cost a lot. If I drive any distance or on roads that are not very well paved, I take them off.

I would upgrade to thinner modern low-stretch line given the chance.



Edited by kgatesman on Jan 13, 2012 - 09:49 PM.

this is my trailoring set up. was concerned that trailoring with the rudders on would damage them but after over 70- 150 mile round trip hauls there is no sign of problems...it's a pita to pull pins on my boat. it takes under 30 minute to go from arrival to rigged and loaded on the beach. the trick is to let the uphaul lines loose on the rudders so they dont hang on the springs

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Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Bill

Thanks...I've got the same issues. I have SS rudder pins and they are real tough to get out. I don't want to wail on the transom with a hammer to remove them every time I sail. I think when I remove the pintles to paint I'll get in there with a drill or rat tail file as I'm sure there is some bi-metal corrosion.

Made a few trips this weekend to look for the rudder sheves with no luck. A former Prindle dealer told me that NACRA isn't selling them anymore in favor of a set of roller/spacers. That didn't make sense to me so I'll keep looking. I think Duckworks has them but I don't know the size nor have one that isn't totally chipped. I'm assuming http://www.duckworksbbs.c…heaves/s-nylon/index.htm will work even if I need spacers between them.

Pretty soon I'll start working on the rudder blades to get the bottoms touched up and remove some knicks from the leading and trailing edges.

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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
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http://www.murrays.com/mm…_Code=C-PF&Store_Code=MS

here they are...a little pricey but ...

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Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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So murphy's law, I have 2 complete rudder castings..and 2 different rigging layouts. The older has 3 sheves on the top and 1 and a spacer on the bottom. The new one has 3 on top and 1 larger spacer on the bottom. Based on parts availability I think I'm going to go with the newer layout. So back to the drawing board and time to bring them in off the boat when my re-rig kit gets here.

Does anyone have a clean set of rudder blades they could trace the tip on for me? I have 2 blades that are in ok condition but each bottom tip is a slightly different shape from beach ware. They can be saved I just want to see what the right shape should be.

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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
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I believe the new one is correct. When i redid mine a few years back I recall that one of the
sheaves was omitted and a larger spacer installed.

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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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BobCatNJ

Does anyone have a clean set of rudder blades they could trace the tip on for me? I have 2 blades that are in ok condition but each bottom tip is a slightly different shape from beach ware. They can be saved I just want to see what the right shape should be.

BobCat,
The original shape is squared off both fore and aft. If any part of the bottom edge is still straight, use that to project the flat bottom edge and just make corners with the leading and trailing edges.

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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After using the snow day this weekend to bring the blades and castings inside I noticed a few oddities.

1) I have SS Pintles - my replacement casting had AL. They also seem to flare out at the ends and jam up in the casting and gudgeons. I managed to hit myself square in the face with the casting and have 2 sets of bruises from my chin to lip showing both sides of the casting.

2) on the top set of sheaves I have SS washers as spacers not the nylon - I assume that someone was here before me or that Prindle changed it but I'm going to go back to they nylon

3) Spring bolt shows some signs of wear but I assume its notmal from the rudder grab bolt contacting it for years.

4) Blades are in pretty good condition and have the same shape just need some filler and a few new pieces of glass, maybe a sealer coat of epoxy to have a nice smooth waterproof uniform surface to start from.

Has anyone attempted to paint the castings/ tiller arms? mine are from 2 different boats and are 2 different colors. I assume the tiller extensions are anodized so I'd need some self etching primer and whatever paint I use... but is it worth it or will it look good until I launch then be a mess?

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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
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BobcatNJ

I have SS Pintles - my replacement casting had AL. They also seem to flare out at the ends and jam up in the casting and gudgeons.

My 16 came with aluminum and the 18-2 came with SS. I prefer the SS, but it sounds like someone has pounded on the ones you have and flared the ends. Flared is never good. Straight and true pintles should keep the castings off your face, regardless of which metal they may be.

BobcatNJ

Blades are in pretty good condition and have the same shape just need some filler and a few new pieces of glass, maybe a sealer coat of epoxy to have a nice smooth waterproof uniform surface to start from.

Try this bit of magic...
http://solarez.com/productsnew/e_extreme.html
I used this over the summer to patch my rudders and centerboards. It cures hard in 10 minutes or less in daylight UV. I fixed 15 dings, some of them deep, in one day. Get some mylar from a florist and have a medium and fine sanding pad handy, and you will not believe how strong this stuff is. It dries translucent, so you may want to spray gel coat over it when done, but after using fillers and putty like marinetex for years, this stuff is wonderful! (not a paid ad- just a happy user!)

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Quote

See if this helps you get on track and if not check back.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=72612

I've been tuning my P16 rudders, and they were rigged like these photos, but when the rudder is pulled up, the uphaul line attached to the blade (stop knotted through the centerline of the blade) tends to jump the first pulley it goes through because that pulley is one of the side ones in the casting and the rope has to run at an angle from the centerline to the side to go over it. So, I switched the uphaul line from the blade to the middle pulley, and moved the uphaul line you pull on over to the side pulley.

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John Fricker
Prindle 16
Seabrook, Texas
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I replaced my aluminum pintles with SS ones for a Hobie 18 because at the time the local Hobie shop was what I had to work with. They seem to work quite well. I put an S ring in the holes of one end and push clip with the bump in the middle on the other. Only when mounted I push the pins all the way through past the bump to the end.

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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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I'm starting to have a love hate relationship with our Murray's. I signed on for 6 sheaves. $200 bucks later I got all kinds of goodies headed my way.

They recommended continuing to use the 3 upper sheaves spaced out with nylon washers which should help the lines from jumping. If nothing else just cleaning and re-lubeing the bolts will help. On the lower end they said to use the larger spacer and not the sheave/spacer combo.

upon further inspection the SS pins are toast I beat the one off the broken rudder casting and ruined it. So i ordered a new set of SS ones.

Plus a millions of other odds and ends I needed from Pins to a new mast hinge ball

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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
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might as well check and see if the dolphin striker rod is seized to the mast step base in case you have to tension the ds rod...while you got the wallet out. oh, and while you are putting in those new sheaves, go to the local fastener store and get all new ssnuts, bolts, and washers. that should only set you back $20 or less. after you get the new bolts installed and if they stick out from the locknuts a bit then cut them off close to the nut and file them smooth, if your rudders get tweeked they can impact the hulls and do some damage if they stick out.


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Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Bill,

We've got the same thought process. I've got to go to West in the next week or so and plan on getting new pivot bolts. I'm not sure If I can find a set of the spring bolts but I may be able to take a longer bolt and cut the thread. Thanks for that idea. I have all the hardware from the broken rudder casting in my box of parts and all the bolts are tweaked at some point the previous owner was moving the cat and the inside of the rudder caught on a tree trunk and snapped the casting.

For the DS...My thinking was to get a used cross member with a freed up DS (Pete you have a PM) I noticed that the port side of the cross member has an area about the size of a quarter that has the AL chaffed off. Its not a dent rather it looks like a bare stay cable or block was rubbing against it for years. I'm concerned that its going to make the cross member weaker. Hopefully I can replace the whole assembly used cheaper than I can replace the DS rod.

Next 2 purchases are West system and eventually paint and primer. The real work will start in the next few weeks as the temp warms up and I can get the cat off the trailer to paint and re bearing and re wire the trailer. I've reserved a spot in my friends garage for late March - May to get the hulls primed and painted. My goal is to launch the 2nd week of May.

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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
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my boat was such a beater that every bolt on the rudders were bent! i had no choice, put in some fender washers between the blade and tha casting to take out slop because the castings were tweeked out, i made new lock down bolts because they cost 30$ each...i got real familiar with the rudders through the process, which is a good thing. i had to replace the ds rod, mast base and mast step castings because they were sooo worn out, luckily bought them right before the price more than doubled(many casting parts have spiked lately, new that is) and put on new 1/2 ball so i'm good there for a while. one thing i recommend for the paint job is let it cure at least 7 days before assembleing...i got in a hurry and put it together 3 days later and the paint was still gummy...mistake! so make sure to allot the week or so for curing. make sure to remove ALL hardware from the hulls and replace with new ss bolts, might as well. it's also a good time to get new ports and covers($10 each) and go back with ss nuts and bolts insted of wood screw style.i put in the clear port covers so i could see in the hulls w/out taking them off if i'm in some seas(extra $2 each). this will be my 4th season with this boat and i'm still in the process of upgrading/tweeking...i kid with people and tell them if the boat was 6" longer i couldn't afford it!

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Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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In keeping with the theme of a free beach cat isn't....

I borrowed a caliper from my grandfather to compare the size of the rudder blades...which I'll get to in another post. -

I took a look at the 2 rudder castings I have. Port is a replacement STB is original. When I got the boat the port casting was broken in 3-4 pieces. I was told a rudder caught the corner of the garage while moving it around. Upon closer inspection the Stb casting is bowed out at the 3:00 position to nearly 2X the width and it appears to be bent up where the casting meets tiller arm. The tiller cross bar bolts were both bent one worse than the other, and the only delam I've got is in the stern from the crossbar aft. So I assume that someone backed into the cat and forced the rudders apart snapping one casting and bending the other. The crossbar seems to be fine.

I figure the only way to have any hope of a cat that will not have sloppy rudders is to start with 2 true castings and round holes in the tiller arms with straight bolts. So the bent casting is going into the spares pile and a new casting is on order.

Does anyone have a good step by step of rudder repair involving the a pretty large ding on the trailing edge? Saw a good one on youtube w/ a british guy on a lazer but not sure if those steps apply for the west system. He used polyester resign and bondo.

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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
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bobcatnj

Does anyone have a good step by step of rudder repair involving the a pretty large ding on the trailing edge?

Try this on the rudder:
http://solarez.com/uses/surfboards.html

I have used it on rudders, centerboards and sailboards.
Much stronger than the rudder is, and cures hard in 15 minutes in the sun and sands to shape easily. It dries translucent, so you may want to cover it with gelcoat at some point.

If you take the time to match the amount of Solarez you use to the ding exactly and use mylar taped tight (as they demo), you may not have to shape the fix at all. I did an emergency repair on shore with this stuff and was ready to go back out in 15 minutes. In really full sun Solarez hardens in less than 10 minutes.

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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I just replaced bolt and spring last season. It was a bit of pain to get the springs back on. I just got SS bolts from the hardware store that were a tad longer and cut them off with a dremel cutoff wheel after I got them all together. I use SS / nylon lock nuts. I did not replace the guts yet. Some of the sheaves could stand it but I have a set of new castings that need to have all the guts ordered so I will do that eventually but it' gonna cost me a bit so it will be later.

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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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