I did the soap/blower test on my P16 this weekend because last season the hulls were pretty leaky and I want to stop the leakage when I patch up nicks and skinting on the hulls this season.

I was hoping that the rudder mounts weren't leaky as I hear they often are, but it seems that's where at least the main problem is . Due to that and some soft spots and damage in that area I think I'll have to grind out the bad parts and re-glass. Both hulls leak from these mounts, one hull has a soft spot right under the top mount and it's bad enough that the mount has pressed a divot into the fiberglass. Kind of looks like the previous owner hit something and the rudder didn't kick up correctly and instead jammed the mount into the hull.

What is the general process here?
Do I glass over the holes and re-drill/tap them? If so are there any good tips to make sure I get the holes in the right place?

OR Can I wax the bolt and screw it a bit into the aluminum back then lay glass around it? I've heard this works pretty good and the glass can mechanically help keep the bolt set. I've also seen people use soda straws but it seems like this would create too much play on the bolt.

Whatever I do I want to avoid having to lift the deck to patch the transom. I've read that badly damaged transoms have forced people to put maintenance hatches in their boats back there or pull the deck up so they can get to both sides.... I really, REALLY want to avoid this.

http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=79947

here is my album when i repaired my transome last spring. there is a plywood piece with an aluminum plate behind it that the bolts thread into. the first step is to dig out all loose stuff and see where it stops. i drilled out the glass resin after each application from the bolt holes while it was easy to see them, don't go too far and hit the alum. plate threads. i filled with chop glass then finished with 3 layers of matt, sanded, fared, and touched up with paint(use gelcoat, my hulls are painted). you can do the entire job in one whole day or 2 afternoons. after the repairs are finished and cured, use marine grade silicone to bed in the gudgeons as you screw them back on. or you can bring it to a pro and pay 500-700$...the materials cost less than 80$ if you buy the brand new qt of west system + paint/or gelcoat materials.

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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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I've seen it done a few different ways.

What I did years ago, which I'd probably do differently now, but has held up beautifully to lots of abuse by three different owners, is:
_sand/grind out the cracks, broken glass and gelcoat etc.
_put the bolts partially in the gudgeons
_fair the whole transom around the bolts w/ marinetex or a proper fairing compound
_added 1/4" aluminum plates over the outside of the transoms (single plate over all 4 bolt holes, w/ matching holes drilled in the plate)
_touch up gelcoat where necessary
_install rudders as normal

The plates distribute the load very well over the transom, and the fairing compound seals it.

I'm too lazy for pics right now, sorry. (damn you Google)

The potential problems with re-glassing the transom are the amount of time and effort required if your cracks or damage extend around the side of the hull (as the gudgeons are very close to the outside edge of the prindles' transoms), and the lack of access to the gudgeon plate on the inside of the hull, which would allow you to properly recreate the holes in the transom if you reglassed the whole area.

If I had to do it over and it was winter, I'd probably re-glass the whole thing properly as it's a cleaner repair. If I had to do it over and it was summer, I'd do whatever's fastest.

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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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I've got the same issue, please take some pics and post them

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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
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