After searching through past forums, I couldn't find anything about this topic:

What are some techniques for keeping the jib sheet, main sheet, and traveler car sheet to stay on the tramp?

I got back out on the water this past weekend in Long Beach (CA) and it reminded me of the problem I have when sailing in choppy seas, rarely a problem on flat lakes. But after a solid few minutes ripping through the water on a good reach, the chop and water washing past the tramp will repeatedly push and bounce all my lines towards the back of the tramp. It becomes a MAJOR problem once a small part of the loose line lands in the water, and immediately everything else (Main sheet and traveler sheet) gets pulled over the rear beam with it. I had my main sheet pulled out of my hands while on the wire, I would have panicked if not for my crew being able to compensate the weight over the side, and I quickly swung back in, let out the main, and pulled my lines back from dragging behind my boat.

However, it kept happening all day. Meanwhile the jib sheet gradually gets splashed around until it spans a huge oval across my trampoline, essentially in the way.

Even on flatter lake sailing, if I'm flying a hull the sheets (jib sheet first) slide to leeward and drag in the water.

Is this something cat sailors just live with because of the circumstances/design of a cat?

Also, on my P16 my main sheet is separate from the traveler sheet, althought the manual suggests one huge loop running through the two, when I got my boat it wasn't rigged as such, and I haven't changed it. Anybody prefer one rigging method over the other?

The tramp is tied tight, no sag. I've thought about clipping on something like a carabiner to each side of my tramp near the front crossbar that I could snap my jib sheet in the carabiner for long stretches and out for tacks/jibes just to keep it closer to reach for and help prevent it from spreading across my tramp.

Anyways, any suggestions or being encouraged to make my mainsheet and traveler all one as the manual shows, is appreciated.

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Redondo Beach, CA
'80 Prindle 16.
(Got it for free!)
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I have the same problem on my Hobie 18. It becomes a PITA when I'm out on the wire sailing solo (which is most of the time). I've seen pictures of cats with pool noodles bungied across the rear tramp lacing to help keep the sheets from washing off the stern. I'm going to give that a try this spring.

If there is enough wind to get a chop that drags the sheets from the tramp you should be holding them both, or at least have them very close by. On the wire you take them with you and put across your leg while holding them. Pass the traveler or main to the crew.

The main and traveler combined is easy, but not my preference anymore. It pays to have a much smaller diameter sheet on the traveler. I have 8mm (don't know what that is in inches, decimal rules!) on the traveler and 10mm on the main on our P16.

--
Stefan, Denmark.
H14,H16,P16,P18,SC17,N5.8
Team StaySail
http://www.staysail.eu
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Look for a "mainsheet overboard preventer", lots of places sell them, but making one shouldn't be too bad. With the main and traveller controls separate, tie them together using a sheet bend.

Brian, just weave the noodles into the lacing



Edited by presto99 on May 16, 2012 - 02:47 PM.

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Jeff
Houston TX
1986 Hobie 18 Sail# 13031
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Wrap the main/traveler combo one time through the jib sheet. This makes everything ball up into a mess, which isn't very desirable, but the length of the jib sheet keeps the main sheet from jumping ship immediately.

This is the simplest way I've found that's marginally effective or better.

I've also got the rough side of a 3" wide strip of velcro glued to the front of the rear beam, which Salsa and PHD stick like mad to.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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philzy

Also, on my P16 my main sheet is separate from the traveler sheet, althought the manual suggests one huge loop running through the two, when I got my boat it wasn't rigged as such, and I haven't changed it. Anybody prefer one rigging method over the other?

In the center of your tramp just aft of the portholes there should be a single grommet. This is for a bungee to keep your lines on the tramp. Your main sheet is probably bigger diameter than your main traveler line to make it easier to feed through the car. Tie the two together with a double sheet bend. Now they are one, and easier to keep track of. Get a piece of bungee cord, tie it around the main sheet above the knot with the traveler line, and run the free end down into the grommet and tie it to the dolphin striker up front under the tramp.

Now you have two lines that you can reach from the trapeze position (main sheet and traveler) that are held on the tramp in the middle by the bungee cord. Even when part of one drops into the water, there isn't a lot of length to go in because the bungee holds it back. Your Prindle was designed this way.

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Bob - that sounds like a good idea. How far back from the mast (or some other reference point) does the bungee/main knot rest when the bungee is at rest?

I've raced on dinghies that had the jib sheets crossing the boat with the tails tied to the opposite side trap handles so the line is always there within reach while hiking out. See here for a thread http://www.thebeachcats.c…ms/viewtopic/topic/13076. I have continous jib sheets on my P16 and have not tried cutting them to cross sheet.

We also used 3-4" long pieces of batten tied to bungee cord to hook the spinnaker halyard and keep it in place. When you pulled up the spinnaker, the bungee allows the batten to deflect and releases the line without any release action by the crew. You might be able to do something similar to hold jib and mainsheets to trap lines.

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John Fricker
Prindle 16
Seabrook, Texas
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philzy

How far back from the mast (or some other reference point) does the bungee/main knot rest when the bungee is at rest?

With the bungee knot (around the sheet) snug against the grommet, tie the bungee to the dolphin striker rod so that there is no slack. This way it will pull your sheets to the center of the tramp.

philzy

I have continous jib sheets on my P16 and have not tried cutting them to cross sheet.

I sailed on a Hobie set up this way and I didn't like it. It was more lines on the tramp in my way on a tack, and they were the same color so I had to trace an end to make sure I was grabbing the right one on my way over to the other side. If the sheet is continuous, it doesn't matter- you just hang onto it and run eight feet to the other hull.

I gotta ask- your crew keeps the jib sheet in hand while sailing- especially out on trapeze? The jib sheet shouldn't go anywhere unless it is too long. It should be just long enough for the crew to sheet the jib while out on trapeze, positioned aft of the shroud (broad reach position with the barber hauler out to the edge).

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
--

Quote

Also, on my P16 my main sheet is separate from the traveler sheet, althought the manual suggests one huge loop running through the two, when I got my boat it wasn't rigged as such, and I haven't changed it. Anybody prefer one rigging method over the other?

You should still tie the ends of the main and traveler together. I use a follow through figure 8.

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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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My line management problem is when I solo the P16. The cross sheeting was nice on the 470 for when you had to use your hands for something else, or if you got bounced around and dropped the sheet, then you didn't have to come back in to get it which would require depowering or capsizing.

--
John Fricker
Prindle 16
Seabrook, Texas
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Quote

I've also got the rough side of a 3" wide strip of velcro glued to the front of the rear beam, which Salsa and PHD stick like mad to.

Now that is a clever idea...love it. I've got some spare velcro, and gonna try it this weekend.

I called Sunrise trampolines here in Pinellas Park, and they hooked me up with some scrap material. It's not the regular mesh, but an open net like on big cats. I threaded bungee through the tramp grommets (center and rear) as a preventer.

It works pretty well, however it seems as soon as things get exciting, my mainsheet still finds the tiniest little opening and gets sucked out past the rear beam. When trapped out, it can be downright scary as the main gets really hard to release.