I may have come upon a free G-Cat back home in Indiana. I'm not sure if it is a 5.0 or 5.7 but I think it is in pretty good shape and has a trailer. What is the general consensus on these boats? I like the idea of the front tramp. I have a Hobie 16 so I'm not sure if I'd keep both boats or sell the G-Cat. Thoughts/opinions would be great. Anyone want to buy a G-Cat?

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-Zach
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Having owned both a H-16 and a G-Cat 5.7, I can tell you the G-Cat is a far better boat. Faster to rig, no boom, more room, more hull displacement and fast.

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Hobie 16
Hobie 18
G-Cat 5.7
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Thanks for your help. I'm still leaning toward the Hobie even if the G-Cat is a much better boat. I just like the established racing class and the endless accessibility to parts. Maybe I'll just keep them both for a while...

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-Zach
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Sent you a pm. If you're interested in selling the G-Cat I might be interested depending on what you're wanting for it and how far away from Dallas it is.

I had mine out this weekend and almost sank it. The previous owner had patched a hole in the pontoon up toward the front and did a crappy job doing it. The patch came loose suddenly leaving a nice gaping 3" x 5" hole. I had to pay a tow boat to tow it very slowly to shore and then used the winch on my trailer to slowly drag it along the bottom up to the shoreline. Luckily the bottom was soft and I had several other people from the local hobie fleet there to help me.

I can verify that a G-Cat 5.0 will still float with one pontoon completely filled with water.

I took the boat to a local fiberglass place and they quoted me $750 for the repair. I have a friend that says he's good with fiberglass so I guess we'll try to repair it and see how it goes.

Should not be hard to repair. The very little I have done has shown me that if done right it should be rock solid. It is not hard to do right but some people are just lazy I think.

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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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Here's a pic of the hole:


And here's a bunch of my buddies helping me get it back to shore and on the trailer. These things don't sail so well under water:

That is an easy, & fairly quick fix. Note the port just behind the beam, that gives good access to the inside. Get things dried out properly, then use an angle grinder,(looks like it will go through the hole if you first remove the handle) or even a block with #60 grit sandpaper to clean/roughen the inside. I would try to go 6" larger than the hole. Wipe down with acetone to remove any contaminants.
It would be easier with the hull removed, laid on its side, so gravity will keep the initial layers (placed on the inside) in place while it kicks off. Tape a piece of fitted styrofoam covered in Saran Wrap or like material to the outside of the hull, to act as a form. Have the form project slightly inside the hull.
Lay up 2-3 layers of matt, (smaller piece against the styrofoam, then progressively larger). Try to work out all air bubbles & use just enough resin to fully wet the matting. It may be beneficial to pick up a set of veterinary latex gloves,(used for AI cows)they cover up to your elbows & will keep the inevitable resin smears off your arms while you blindly work on the inside. Once this sets, you now have backing, & can flip the hull onto the other side, so the hole is facing up.
Use your grinder to bevel the area, outwards from the edges of the hole. Layer up another couple of layers,(you can place up to 3 layers at the same time without overheating) again using the least resin you can to wet the material.
If you plan to gelcoate the repair, try to end up with the repair as a depression, rather than standing proud of the surrounding hull. If not, fair out the patch, then mix a small amount of resin & "paint" a very thin layer on top, to seal any matting exposed by sanding.
You will have added a small amount of weight in comparison to the original structure, but it will be stiffer than the rest of the hull.
The biggest job will be getting the hull off, prep work, & organization. Thoroughly think through each step in laying the matt before you mix the resin. Once mixed is not the time to discover you need to cut another piece of matt, or block the hull up so you can properly reach the work area.

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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I just picked up a GCat 5.0 and also luv the idea of a forward tramp, just sold my P18 to a Dr down in Hot Springs, AR, and will have a little extra cash for the reno. Have already replaced the main tramp and will now order the forward tramp, found drainplugs with housing at West Marine, will mount my sailbox this week and try hit the water soon.

http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=86940

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TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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Quote

had mine out this weekend and almost sank it. The previous owner had patched a hole in the pontoon up toward the front and did a crappy job doing it.

pontoon boats have pontoons...
catamarans have hulls :)

yeah! real sailors don't use the word "pontoon" when it comes to sailboats, motorheads use that term for their pontoon boats..........

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TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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It's fixed now. Looks good as new. Used a little white krylon spray paint for now to get me through this season. Will be painting both hulls with awlgrip or similar next spring.

The port behind the beam was probably put there for the original repair. At least they put it aft of the beam and not in front of.

Edchris177

That is an easy, & fairly quick fix. Note the port just behind the beam, that gives good access to the inside. Get things dried out properly, then use an angle grinder,(looks like it will go through the hole if you first remove the handle) or even a block with #60 grit sandpaper to clean/roughen the inside. I would try to go 6" larger than the hole. Wipe down with acetone to remove any contaminants.
It would be easier with the hull removed, laid on its side, so gravity will keep the initial layers (placed on the inside) in place while it kicks off. Tape a piece of fitted styrofoam covered in Saran Wrap or like material to the outside of the hull, to act as a form. Have the form project slightly inside the hull.
Lay up 2-3 layers of matt, (smaller piece against the styrofoam, then progressively larger). Try to work out all air bubbles & use just enough resin to fully wet the matting. It may be beneficial to pick up a set of veterinary latex gloves,(used for AI cows)they cover up to your elbows & will keep the inevitable resin smears off your arms while you blindly work on the inside. Once this sets, you now have backing, & can flip the hull onto the other side, so the hole is facing up.
Use your grinder to bevel the area, outwards from the edges of the hole. Layer up another couple of layers,(you can place up to 3 layers at the same time without overheating) again using the least resin you can to wet the material.
If you plan to gelcoate the repair, try to end up with the repair as a depression, rather than standing proud of the surrounding hull. If not, fair out the patch, then mix a small amount of resin & "paint" a very thin layer on top, to seal any matting exposed by sanding.
You will have added a small amount of weight in comparison to the original structure, but it will be stiffer than the rest of the hull.
The biggest job will be getting the hull off, prep work, & organization. Thoroughly think through each step in laying the matt before you mix the resin. Once mixed is not the time to discover you need to cut another piece of matt, or block the hull up so you can properly reach the work area.