Hello all,
This is my first post on this site. I've been interested in sailing catamarans for over 10 years and finally pull the trigger. I think it's a 1987 Nacra 5.8. I say I think, because i'm not sure of the year?
The last numbers on the right hull, etched in are E 87.
Anyway, I have no idea to to rig this thing. I am trying to get familiar with the terminology and it does have a manual (not a lot of help). I've search this forum and downloaded 2 tuning guides and articles from 1994, but none help explain how to set up the lines/rigging/trapezes?
Any help?
Thanks

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

welcome

if you have the manual and 2 tuning guides already it's very hard to add anything useful without knowing exactly which parts you are having difficulty with

sounds as if it would be best to either find a sailor locally to help you or get a basic sailing guide from a library or book shop

as a very basic start you need to get everything attached to the mast correctly before you raise it

stays - 3 thick wire cables that hold up the mast
halyards - 2 ropes/wires that pull up the 2 sails
trapeze wires - 4 thinner wire ropes with handles, 2 per side

hobie generally make great beginner guides

http://www.cg.cfpsa.ca/cg…obie_rigging_basics.pdf



Edited by erice on Aug 06, 2012 - 04:34 PM.

http://www.nacrasailing.com/index.php?option=com_phocadownload&view=category&id=1:manuals&download=23:nacra-vintage-assembly-manual.pdf&Itemid=91

Nacrasailing.com has a vintage assembly manual for the 5.8 in pdf.

hi,
here are some photos of an '87 5.8 i restored and sold last year. get to the largest version of each photo to see the detail. if you need specific photos of how the support wires (shrouds on the sides, forestay in front) are attached at the top, let me know and i can send you more pics. i've owned several 5.8's so i've probably got a photo for anything you need.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/64069794@N03/sets/72157628025362618/

j

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

If you are looking for help, it truly helps, if you let people know where you are located.

dicedcpa

Hello all,
This is my first post on this site. I've been interested in sailing catamarans for over 10 years and finally pull the trigger. I think it's a 1987 Nacra 5.8. I say I think, because i'm not sure of the year?
The last numbers on the right hull, etched in are E 87.
Anyway, I have no idea to to rig this thing. I am trying to get familiar with the terminology and it does have a manual (not a lot of help). I've search this forum and downloaded 2 tuning guides and articles from 1994, but none help explain how to set up the lines/rigging/trapezes?
Any help?
Thanks

Thanks all! I was able to contact a 5.8 sailor in my area. I re-reviewed the manuals and they are starting to make a little more sense. I am still a little uncertain on 2 items.
1.) The "anti mast spinning set up"
2.) How to make sure both the Jib and Main sheet are secure once raised.

Do most people name their beachcats?

I am planning on doing a dry land set up to make sure I can set up at the lake.

I am located about 40 min North of Phill, PA. Most likely , i'll be sailing in the Deleware Bay once I get things in working order. Has anyone sailed from Cape May to Deleware across the bay.

Is it true that a 5.8 can maintaing 30 knots with the right weighting, tuning and conditions?

Thanks again!!!

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

dicedcpa,
in questions 1) you're referring to the mast rotator which can be used to induce or reduce rotation, depending on who you talk to.
question 2) the main sail should hook onto the mast when it's fully raised. you should have a round steel ring on the end of your halyard to pull the sail up. this ring attaches to the head of the main sail. when hooked at the top of the mast, there should be no tension on the rope halyard and you can just tuck it into the bag on your tramp.

the jib halyard should come down the mast, loop around a couple of 'cheek blocks' attached to the mast and then lock into a clam cleat so it doesn't pull out. if you don't have the proper cleats near the base of the mast, you should add them. some people pull the jib halyard back down thru the jib zipper pocket and attach it at the base of the forestay. it's harder to adjust the jib tension when on the water but that works also.

as far as speed goes, i think you've been fed a line if someone said these would do 30 knots. you would have to be out in 30 knots of wind to do that, which would be near suicide, IMHO. i just recorded 21 mph when it was gusting to 25mph. i had myself on the helm and two people (a total of 340lbs) on two trapeze. with flat water, we could have done more, but not that much. trust me, 20mph is a blast! next stop is hardware failure.

j

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

Another quick question, I understand that the shock cord that runs trhough the tramp is for the rear skipper's trapeze. For some reason there is a small pully in the middle of the shock cord, any idea what this is for? Also, does this shock cord run under or over the tramp?
I think, the mast rotator, that metal thin bar that looks like a narrow horseshoe... I don't really know what to do with that.



Edited by dicedcpa on Aug 07, 2012 - 11:58 AM.

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

d,
the shock cord should definitely run under the tramp. it's possible that the small 'pulley' (block) was attached to center of the front or rear beam, underneath the tramp. this would give you more shock cord to stretch out when you're on the trap than if it went straight across from side to side. on my boat, i installed a small block to the inside of each hull, directly below the grommet in the tramp where the shock cord runs thru. then i have the shock cord run from starboard, across to port, back to starboard and then out on the port grommet (all under the tramp) to give me more stretch.

the rotator should be bolted thru the mast base with a stainless steel bolt/nut. keep it horizontal by tying a light line from the end of the rotator up to the diamond wire tang on the side of the mast. as far as the rotator goes, most people face it forward and use it to put MORE twist (rotation) into the mast when going downwind. this is done with cleats on the front beam aside the mast and over about 18" or so toward the hulls. do a search on this site for 'rotator' or go thru the photo albums at the top of the page (catamaran technical tips) to see some photos.

if you had a main sail boom, the rotator would point backwards and work with the boom to REDUCE rotation going upwind, but you don't have a boom so that's a moot point.

there are different opinions here, but with my boomless main sail, i find that i need to reduce the mast rotation when going upwind. reducing the curved shape of the main improves my speed when the wind picks up by moving the maximum draft (pocket) of the sail backwards and not right behind the mast. this follows the theory of having your sail 'flatter' in super-light and heavy wind ("the harder it blows, the flatter it goes") but having a bigger curve in medium winds. but as i said, some would disagree with me putting the rotator to the rear.

don't worry too much about the rotator until you've sailed the 5.8 and have a feel for it. you can't go wrong by not using it at the beginning.

here's a great video on a 5.8:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiqCrPrhyTM

j



Edited by arch on Aug 07, 2012 - 10:21 PM.

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

All great information to know, I'll start without using the mast rotator feature until I get some "sea legs".

Does it matter what type of line to use for lacing the back of the tramp to the rear beam? Does 50lb rope from Lowes work? What about paracord? Although I think paracord stretches.

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

dicedcpa: It sounds like you're in a little over your head. You really need to understand that the N5.8 is a VERY powerful boat (not a beginner boat by any means). Please try to get yourself an experienced teacher. If nothing else, only go out in very mild conditions, and don't go too far until you've got a lot more experience (conditions can change quickly). Don't mean to be negative...just want you to have a good, safe experience so you will stick with it! Good luck, man!

--
Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
--

Ohh Boy! The only experience teacher i've got is my sweet ole self. I am a bit of a risk taker, but agree safety first. I even just ordered a life jacket! Anyone want to volunteer to teach me to sail this weekend at Peace Valley Park, PA?
If I am singlehandling this beast of a boat, should I just start with the main sail, sail jibless? I'll be flying a hull in no time, ha!

If I can tie a bowline, i'm good to go right! ha! Hard-a-lee!

I know I have a substantial learning curve to overcome, i've learned so much in the past 3 days. Thanks for all your guys/ladies help! I really do appreciate it, even the criticism. :)



Edited by dicedcpa on Aug 08, 2012 - 04:06 PM.

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

Use 1/4" dacron for lacing the tramp. You want it tight, and you will tighten it again later when the tramp moves back into place and your wet line stretches a bit. Paracord is a little thin, and the #50 stuff from Lowe's is not a good choice. You want low stretch, UV resistant line that you can pull very tight.

--
Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
--

Since I want to give this boat it's maiden voyage this weekend. Oh yea, she now has a name (1 hull is called SpiderMonkey and the other called SpiderGorilla) don't ask... I've not even sure if it's proper to name each hull differently, but I guess I can be the first. So the 50 lb rope doesn't seem that safe, so I ordered this from Amazon until I can buy the 1/4" dacron from a marine store, unless you know of a place on Amazon prime that I can get it by the weekend?


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005TLUXFC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

This may be a better option... seems this Polypropylene stretches less than nylon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QVUROU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

Another Question: Does the line that controls the traveler on the rear beam need to be a certain type? Also, I see where the line ties to the eyelit, but once threaded and though the clam cleat, does it tie to anything? Stopper knot?

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

Sorry guys, another couple questions that came to mind. I was digging though the misc items bag that came with the boat and there 2 small orange bags (opening is about 4" in diameter and about 8-10" in length). Any idea what these are used for?

Second question, does the bushing/washers that connects the rudder to the stern go on top / bottom or both sides of the connection point? In other words, how much play(movement) should the rudder connection have via the rudder pins. 1/2" or less??

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

dicedcpa

Sorry guys, another couple questions that came to mind. I was digging though the misc items bag that came with the boat and there 2 small orange bags (opening is about 4" in diameter and about 8-10" in length). Any idea what these are used for?

Second question, does the bushing/washers that connects the rudder to the stern go on top / bottom or both sides of the connection point? In other words, how much play(movement) should the rudder connection have via the rudder pins. 1/2" or less??

Did the bags look like the ones here?
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=74570

Those are "port bags" and designed to hang inside the round deck ports. Handy storage, but not dry storage since it gets kind of damp inside the hulls from condensation even if they are well sealed.

The rudder casting shouldn't have any slop against the rudder pins if that's what you mean. Pictures of your items would help.

--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

How To Create Your Signature

How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
--

dicedcpa

Another Question: Does the line that controls the traveler on the rear beam need to be a certain type? Also, I see where the line ties to the eyelit, but once threaded and though the clam cleat, does it tie to anything? Stopper knot?

At the least, New England Sta Set, 5/16 or 3/8. From the "eyelit" through the traveler car, through the eye then cleat. Then a stopper knot so the car won't hit the end of the track, then tie it to the end of your main sheet.

--
Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
--

dicedcpa

Does the line that controls the traveler on the rear beam need to be a certain type?

Yes. It is usually 5/16" dacron. DO NOT skimp here. Use something like Sta-Set yacht braid. If you use cheap line it will break, you will be out of control and someone could be badly hurt. There is a lot of stress in the traveler line- especially when you gybe.

dicedcpa

Also, I see where the line ties to the eyelit, but once threaded and though the clam cleat, does it tie to anything? Stopper knot?

Sometimes the other end of the main sheet is used to thread through the rear cleat, then through the traveler car and then a stopper knot at the eyelet on the rear beam. But thick mainsheet lines, like 7/16", don't feed through the traveler car smoothly, so we use the 5/16" line (as above) tied to the mainsheet and threaded through as I just detailed.

This is hard to communicate in words, so look for pictures of traveler lines here in The Beach Cats and see if you can find the NACRA manual for help as well.

--
Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
--

DamonLinkous - Yes! Those orange bags are exactly them! Thanks, I thought it was an on board urinal for a minute.

Where is the best place online to buy Dacron line ? All places I see sell 600' spools for $300+

Sat Morning I am going to give it a try, pending I get her set up properly.
For the first time out I am not going to use the trapeze or the mast rotator function.
Any other suggestions? Forecast calls for 6-7 mile winds, so might just be enough to putz around the lake to get familiar with the boat. Should I sail jibless if it's just me and my first time out?

Thanks

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

http://www.apsltd.com/c-1485-line.aspx

http://www.westmarine.com…tegories1_11151_10001_-1

--
Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
--

I just want to thank all of your for the help the past week. Without your comments and assistance I wouldn't have been able to obtain one of my life long dreams. Sailling my own catamaran! I was able to do a practice dry land set up Sat, and Sunday I took it out on the water.
I'm sure some of you will snicker with what I am about to say next but i rather be safe than sorry. Remember my catamaran experience is only 1 sail (about 2 hours) ten years ago on a Hobie Wave. Other than that,I I knew very little. I sailed 1 summer on MC Scows, and Day Sailors on the lakes surrounding Minneapolis to learn points of sail.

Since it was just me, on my untested Nacra 5.8, I sailed with just the jib. There was no beach to get set up to help keep me head to wind. I thought I would be able to raise the main while out on the water, but with no once controling the boat this would prove very difficult. Wind speeds were a bit higher than I expected (~15 mph) Someone was right that this is a very fast boat!!! With only the jib I was keeping up with a Hobie 16 flying a hull. I can't imagine if I had the main sail up how fast/dangerous this thing could have been.

All in all, the first sail was a success other than I lost my walkie talkie (2-way radio) at the dock as well as a quick pin I was trying to use as a substitute to pin the tack of the jib (ended up just tieing a square knot with a piece of line.

A few comments I have to make, my thumbs are in pain. Un pinning and pining again the rig multiple times in a weekend pretty much ripped my thumbnails off (litterially blood was drawn). Where in the world can I find quick pins for the side stays and everywhere else? I have one for the forestay ! A blessing!

P.s. The boat floats! 4 hours on the water and not a drop in the hulls!

Thanks again all!!

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

excellent idea to build up slowly on a cat that powerful

presumably the 5.8 is as well balanced without the jib as the 5.2

so maybe your next solo sail could be main without jib?

if the wind picks up be prepared to release the traveller when tacking to prevent going into irons

and read up on backing out of irons by releasing the main and traveller and then pushing boom AND rudders in the direction you want to sail

dicedcpa

Where in the world can I find quick pins for the side stays and everywhere else? I have one for the forestay ! A blessing!

Thanks again all!!

Quick pins should NOT be used on standing rigging. Use them on the tack and clew of the sail, main sheet blocks and any where else but not the shrouds or fore stay.

--
Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
--

As far as sailing from DE to Cape May. It can certainly be done, but I would practice a bit more. You have the open Atlantic on one side of you and you have to worry about a fair amount of traffic in that area. Ferries, large motorboats and of course - freighters.
All the usual safety requirements apply to a sail like this
I am on the DE bay about 15 miles N of Lewes, DE and I RARELY get the urge to make the passage, as we can spend our days up and down the west side of the bay without having to mess with the freighters.
You have a performance boat, and it would be wise to take this season to get used to it.
Happy to sail with you if you wish, just send me a PM

--
Supercat 15
Windrider 17
Several Sunfish and Sunfish clones
Ratboat built from Zuma and Sunfish parts
Shallow water sailor in the Delaware Bay
--

I guess my fingers just need to get tougher or I can use a little pocket knoife to help..

Next time, I am going to find some shorline so I can put up the main and give that a try with no jib. Most likely this Sunday! Taking a look at some you tube videos tacking with the main is a bit more cumbersome, have to pass the tiller arm around the main sheet...

--
William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
--

dicedcpa

A few comments I have to make, my thumbs are in pain. Un pinning and pining again the rig multiple times in a weekend pretty much ripped my thumbnails off (litterially blood was drawn). Where in the world can I find quick pins for the side stays and everywhere else? I have one for the forestay ! A blessing!

Glad you got out and back in one piece for your first voyage!

You mention "Un pinning and pining again the rig multiple times in a weekend", what all were you taking apart? Maybe your technique can be improved for less work. What is tearing up your thumbnails (ouch!). If it's trouble with the ring-dings on clevis pins then you can get a simple tool (Hobie Tool) that you can use to avoid using your fingernails to separate the rings.



Also, in areas that are not holding the mast upright you can use this type cotter ring which has an open end to make it easier to start.
http://www.westmarine.com…ssNum=50056#.UCkwZZ1lTQM



On standing rigging you should stay with the closed end type.
http://www.westmarine.com…ssNum=50056#.UCkwXJ1lTQM



And then tape them in place to avoid anything snagging them an pulling them out. (see Dismasted! threads).

And for thngs like attaching the boom to mast, main to boom, and tiller extension to tiller cross bar there are the quick release pins.
http://www.westmarine.com…ssNum=50056#.UCkwjp1lTwo



--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

How To Create Your Signature

How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
--

Quote

A few comments I have to make, my thumbs are in pain. Un pinning and pining again the rig multiple times in a weekend pretty much ripped my thumbnails off (litterially blood was drawn). Where in the world can I find quick pins for the side stays and everywhere else? I have one for the forestay ! A blessing!

Like Damon said it is all technique and gets better over time. Quickpins are great time savers for somethings but just not a good idea for the rigging that holds the mast up. Not only are they hollow and weaker but it only take one well meaning person to pull one out at the wrong time to have a huge problem on your hands.

Most often you will only have to remove the pins on the shrouds a few times a year. Once you you get it all situated the rigging can stay attached pretty much all season except for the forestay. This also includes trailering. Rigging can be coiled and tied to the hiking straps for trailiering.

A small needle nose pliers works well for suborn ring dings. I always have some in my boat gearbox and usually small key chain size leatherman like tool with needle nose in my pocket. You can get good ones cheap at autozone for under $5

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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