I just converted my boat to a turbo and I am having a hard time finding any information about how much tension should be on the jib wire and the side shrouds. The tuning guide I have seen looks to be more for just a regular 14.

All input welcome.

You want it tight. Not banjo string tight, but tight enough so that the mast still rotates.

You are also going to want rake in your mast. I got mine to rake by lengthening the forestay ABOVE the upper furler/pig tail. I put the sidestays in the lowest hole of the adjusters, then adjusted the rig tension with the adjuster on the forestay. I did it that way because I wanted the jib to attach to the furler as low as it could. You can put an adjuster down low to make it easier, but I think you get better performance my way.

Also, I cut down some Hobie 16 rigging to rig my 14 like a little 16. That was the best set up, but you lose the furler.

Do you have a pic you can use to show me how your jib and furler attach? This is my first Cat and I have only had it 6 weeks so I am still a little fuzzy on some of this stuff. The adjuster I have between my furler and jib is a flat bar that is about 4 or 5 inches long with adjustment holes and it slides down through the body of the furler. Are you saying it bad to use that adjuster to rake the mast back?

I don't have the boat any more, so I can't get you some pics. I didn't have the flat bar adjuster, that is more of a Hobie 18 part, I jsut attached the jib to one of the holes in the top of the furler, then got a 10 hole adjuster (like the ones on the sidestays) and put that at the top of the jib. There isn't anything wrong with using the adjuster on the bottom, I just wanted to keep the sail low, so I put it at the top of the sail.

What does keeping the sail low do?

How much rake should I have and I how do I measure it?

Do you have the Hobie drum?



with the factory wires?



--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

yes I have those parts, why?



Edited by donp on Aug 21, 2012 - 09:54 AM.

setup like so:-

1) attach pigtail (short upper forestay) to mast with bell shackle
2) attach swivel to other end of pigtail
3) attach furled jib to swivel (jib has wire in luff pocket which becomes your forestay, jib must be secured top and bottom to the forestay or wire will just spin in the pocket)
4) attach bottom of jib to furler

Hobie drum has 3 way adjuster already for some rake, if you are new to sailing that is all you need at first. Later you can order roller furling drum forestay adjuster......

... which attaches to the drum and allows you to rake the mast back more. Raking the mast is a technique used by racers to achieve more speed, but that comes after many years/hours of sailing, you will be ready for that in a little while but for now just concentrate in setting up H14T standard so you can gain experience.

Just remember this, tension on rig should be such that if boat turns turtle, mast base will not disconnect from mast step.

Make sense......

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

PS, when you converted your stock H14 to a H14 Turbo, did you remember to add the dolphin striker kit.....?



--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

I already have it rigged as described and I have the adjuster in your picture connected as well.
I have a dolphin striker too, I'm really just looking for a bit of guidance on fine tuning it.

Gain the experience 1st and tuning it will follow, to measure mast rake, use the main halyard, attach weight so halyard hangs straight down, measure from aft beam to "plumb" mark. HTH.

--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
--

Ok I was taking some of the slack out of my shroud wires today and I want to know if this is enough contact for the rotation stops. Am I at my limit or can I go farther back or am I to far already?