Does anyboby have a good way to connect jib blocks to jib? I was tring to do it with a piece of line. I dont know the knot I should use for easy connect and disconnect. a picture would be great. thanks in advance for your ideas.

I don't have a picture on hand (can get one if necessary) but if you luggage tag a line, at its midway point, to a snap shackle, you can then snap the shackle on and off of the clew. Tie your blocks for 2:1 on to each end of the line. This is a pretty common setup for beach cats.

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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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the shackle at the top of the diagram connects to the jib clew (hole at the bottom rear of the jib)



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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Tie a section of vectran or spectra at the middle of the line using a overhand knot to the clew. Tie the jib blocks to each end (separately) of the line using a bowline knot. The length of line from the clew to your sheeting block should be just short of the minimum distance from the clew to the sheeting block when the jib is fully sheeted in. This will give you a simple, strong, and lightweight set up.
Dan

Welcome to The Beach Cats. Most photos that are posted in these threads can be blown to full size by clicking on them.

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but if you luggage tag a line, at its midway point, to a snap shackle, you can then snap the shackle on and off of the clew.

This is exactly what you want. By "luggage tie" he means;
get a 4'-6' length of 3/16"-1/4" line,something half decent, like Spyderline,you don't need pure vectran or other non stretch line.
fold the line in half
pass the fold through the end of a halyard shackle, then pass ends through fold(or make it so a normal captive shackle is contained on the fold.
tie each bitter end to one jib block.
Now all you have to do is put the shackle through the clew, & secure, no knots to deal with. A captive pin shackle is better than a non captive one.
Here is how the N 5.7 is rigged. You would have a captive pin shackle where I have the line attached directly to the clew. The lines dropping out of the photo,(bottom right) attach tot he jib blocks.
I am not using a shackle because this boat sits on a lift at my dock, with roller furling, & the jib never gets unhooked til the season is over.

If you are stepping the mast each time you have to make sure the jib lines are pulled out towards the bow, & outside of the mast before you step it. Otherwise you will have to undo one bitter end from a jib block & move it so the lines go outside of the mast.

As Dan said, the advantage to using a 6' piece of thin line,(3' going to each jib block) is it shortens by 12' (jib is rigged 2:1) the length you need of your jib sheet,making things lighter.
The other line you see tied around the jib is a safety line, to prevent the jib unfurling if the furling line were to come out of the cleat, or break. I sleep better with it there.



Edited by Edchris177 on Oct 20, 2012 - 11:48 AM.

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

What kind of boat do you own? It is very helpful when asking for advice. What is proper on one boat may not work for another boat.

iliketosail

Does anyboby have a good way to connect jib blocks to jib? I was tring to do it with a piece of line. I dont know the knot I should use for easy connect and disconnect. a picture would be great. thanks in advance for your ideas.

I have a mystere 6.0 and have been tying the jib blocks every time I rig. just looking for other options the shackle has worked for me as well but is eating up the front of the mast. Thanks for the ideas.

Try a soft shackle

http://l-36.com/soft_shackle_9.php

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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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thats a big help! thanks

What I did for a buddy was use a stopper knot attached to the jib clew.
http://l-36.com/stopper_loop_alt.php

Then make the first part of the soft shackle but instead of the stopper knot at the end, after the burry, bring the line back out so that you have two lines and make two eye splices to attach the blocks. I don't have a pic for it but it's just a variation of above. The stopper knot end stays with the jib and the other stays with the jib sheets and blocks.
http://l-36.com/soft_shackle_9.php

This is what we use for Spin tack and halyard.
http://l-36.com/halyard_shackle.php

--
Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
--

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What I did for a buddy was use a stopper knot attached to the jib clew.
http://l-36.com/stopper_loop_alt.php

That's pretty neat. I'm going to have to implement a few of those, especially on the lashing blocks.

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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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http://l-36.com/soft_shackle_howto.php

This should have been the second link in my post above.

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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Thanks that site is sweet. I think I might even be able to do that. how long did you leave the two ends that splice to the blocks? I was thinking 6" after the burry?Also what type of line and diamater did you use for the jib setup?



Edited by iliketosail on Oct 22, 2012 - 06:39 PM.

Made of 3 mm amsteel, Eyes large enough to luggage tag to blocks and 6 in burry, to do the eyes I used a locking brummel that can be made with only one end of the line free. See the video at the link below.
The video does not show much of a taper, I start my taper about an inch into the burry and pull a strand out about every .5 inch or so leaving about three strands at the end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rU1b1iYgdgw

To answer your question, the arms of the Y were about 8 inches and the other part about also 8.

Could be made longer depending on the distance between your clew and the blocks.

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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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I just found this

http://youtu.be/jH66tGsWv_Y
pretty good vid

THanks for your posts Ron. This should keep me busy For a while!

Here is how I do mine. May try to do a write up on it. http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=96203

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Jeff
Houston TX
1986 Hobie 18 Sail# 13031
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iliketosail

I have a mystere 6.0 and have been tying the jib blocks every time I rig. just looking for other options the shackle has worked for me as well but is eating up the front of the mast. Thanks for the ideas.

soft shackles are great, but your clew/blocks are going to still hit the mast. adding a pig tail will also (probably) increase the chances of your jib sheet getting fouled on your rotator (as they now can swing around a lot more). but that is rare, and a jib preventer line helps a lot. Images below

I have put some white dacron sail tape on my mast where my blocks beats up the mast








Edited by MN3 on Oct 23, 2012 - 09:22 AM.

Thanks andrew ru sailing tomorrow its gonna be windy!!!

That looks nice, you should do a write up, I would be interested.

presto99

Here is how I do mine. May try to do a write up on it. http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=96203

nacra55

What I did for a buddy was use a stopper knot attached to the jib clew.
http://l-36.com/stopper_loop_alt.php

Then make the first part of the soft shackle but instead of the stopper knot at the end, after the burry, bring the line back out so that you have two lines and make two eye splices to attach the blocks. I don't have a pic for it but it's just a variation of above. The stopper knot end stays with the jib and the other stays with the jib sheets and blocks.
http://l-36.com/soft_shackle_9.php

This is what we use for Spin tack and halyard.
http://l-36.com/halyard_shackle.php

Wow, that was extremely helpful and very nicely illustrated. Thank you!!

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Thanks andrew ru sailing tomorrow its gonna be windy!!!

I forgot who was behind this screenname .. hahah
Prob not unless i am on your cat :)

D, i have an extra soft shackle (got it from eric w on the Capricorn), would be glad to give it to you
and i would be happy to splice a pig-tail/lead for ya. Let me know and i will go to ellies and get 4 or 5' of dingy control line and strip off the jacket

let me know

iliketosail

That looks nice, you should do a write up, I would be interested.

presto99

Here is how I do mine. May try to do a write up on it. http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=96203

Interesting that you do your core-passes so far back from the eye.



Edited by MN3 on Oct 26, 2012 - 09:05 AM.

MN3

iliketosail

That looks nice, you should do a write up, I would be interested.

presto99

Here is how I do mine. May try to do a write up on it. http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=96203

Interesting that you do your core-passes so far back from the eye.Edited by MN3 on Oct 26, 2012 - 09:05 AM.

I used an ancient engineering method, called TLAR*, to determine the precise locations of each splice. This was my first attempt at doing this. This was using 1/8" single braid Amsteel, so there was no core. I haven't tested it out, but after getting hit by the shackle, I figured this would be safer.
TLAR = That Looks About Right

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Jeff
Houston TX
1986 Hobie 18 Sail# 13031
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haha, i doubt the location of the passes has any effect on strength, durability etc, ..

MN3

haha, i doubt the location of the passes has any effect on strength, durability etc, ..

We shall see. I will work on a write up with pictures next week. Been busy with work and going to the NASCAR races this weekend at Texas.

--
Jeff
Houston TX
1986 Hobie 18 Sail# 13031
--

Quote

just looking for other options the shackle has worked for me as well but is eating up the front of the mast.

Quote

I have put some white dacron sail tape on my mast where my blocks beats up the mast

I have not yet protected the mast from jib blocks, but I did some experiments to protect where the original jib halyard block beat up the mast. This is the 5.7 before it was converted to roller furling & the wire block removed.
As a proof of concept, on the 5.0, we used a small piece of inner tube, wiped down with acetone, then attached to the mast using Aquaseal thickened with Cotol. It worked very well,(yeah the inner tube piece was/is ugly, but being way up the mast is not noticeable) after a full season it is still firmly attached, with no tendency for the edges to pull up.
Next season, on the lower section, where the jib blocks hit, we are going to try a leftover piece of a 3M product, AeroGard, developed to protect leading edges of propeller blades, car headlights & hoods. I installed it on a new car last year, but didn't bother with the mirrors,as they were fairly complex curves & difficult to make look good on your first try. Simple curves, like a mast are quite easy. It is nearly invisible when applied, tough & UV proof.
http://www.clearmask.com/aerogard.php
http://www.clearmask.com/3M-films.php
You may know someone who has used a kit, & has some left over, or you can buy it in fairly small pieces. Even an 18" piece,(sold by the running foot, $10) would do several boats. You do not need an installation kit to do the front of a mast. You probably have a spritzer bottle to spray soapy water with, & many garage/household items will work as a squeegee for that small area. Watch the installation video.
Andrews idea is definitely KISS, but this is high tech!



Edited by Edchris177 on Nov 14, 2012 - 12:32 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--