I decided to repolish gel coat on my N5.0. After I removed striping, the gel coat under neat of it was pefectly fine but beyond that is hevily oxidized and flat. You can even fill the difference with your finger tips where oxidized gel coat is little thiner.
Should I send the area where striping was with coarser grit (600) to bring it to the same level like the rest of it and follow with 1200 grit everywhere or just run 1200 grit all over and then polish and wax.

Did anybody used COLLINITE Heavy Duty Paste Fleetwax 885 from West Marine? Is it good?



Edited by windadict on Jan 08, 2013 - 10:44 PM.

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Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
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a,
i removed some registration numbers and stickers from two of my boats during restoration and found the same thing.....gelcoat was raised above the rest of the surface and in much better condition. but why make the thicker gelcoat thinner by sanding? won't it be difficult to sand only the raised sections without overlapping the oxidized gelcoat, thereby reducing it's thickness?

if i were you, i would just start the polishing process. i used 3M Marine Rubbing Compound followed by 3M Finesse It II Glaze. i was able to bring back that old finish to nearly match the areas under the stickers. make sure you get a polisher and don't try it by hand....it will come out much better.

Collinite paste wax is good stuff and one 'can' will do several boats. (apply with an old 'whitey tighty') put on quickly over small areas making sure to rub it well into the surface. it is important that you DO NOT LET THIS WAX DRY before you buff it off or you will not be able to get it off. i made this mistake the first time. read the can. do an area about 2-3 s.f. and start buffing off at the beginning as it STARTS to dry. sounds odd but it works. you will know by the feel of your buffing cloth whether it's 'sticky' and not ready to be buffed.

you can see the numbers and finish here.....this cat was really oxidized to begin with:
http://www.flickr.com/pho…57628025362618/lightbox/
from most angles, the numbers don't show at all.
j

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Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
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Polishing and waxing is so "old school" IMHO. Far better to use a clear-coat finish, many posts here about using either Poliglow, Zep Wet Look Floor Finish, and others. Remove oxidization with 800-1000 grit wet sandpaper, wipe clearcoat finish on in small sections. After 4-6 coats hulls look like new, pros; only have to re-do clearcoat finish every 2 years, I did 1 hull with Poliglow, 1 hull with Zep, could not tell the difference, Zep cheaper and easily available at local Lowes. Cons; takes a whole week-end to do both hulls....

arch

.....this cat was really oxidized to begin with:

Your 5.8 is gorgeous.
You did a great job restoring her.
Did you add the graphic, or is that original?
Really good pictures of the rigging and tramp too, have you posted these in the Tech section?
Just looking at your NACRA makes me want to go sailing.

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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+1

the-renovator

Polishing and waxing is so "old school" IMHO. Far better to use a clear-coat finish, many posts here about using either Poliglow, Zep Wet Look Floor Finish, and others. Remove oxidization with 800-1000 grit wet sandpaper, wipe clearcoat finish on in small sections. After 4-6 coats hulls look like new, pros; only have to re-do clearcoat finish every 2 years, I did 1 hull with Poliglow, 1 hull with Zep, could not tell the difference, Zep cheaper and easily available at local Lowes. Cons; takes a whole week-end to do both hulls....

You can get great results with sandpaper, compounding, waxing & buffing but it's too much work for me.

I do an acid wash, 800 grit for persistent areas, then many coats of NewGlass II. - that is good for 4-6 months of florida sun. a maintenance coat every now and again extends it

Quote

Your 5.8 is gorgeous. You did a great job restoring her.
Did you add the graphic, or is that original?
Really good pictures of the rigging and tramp too, have you posted these in the Tech section?
Just looking at your NACRA makes me want to go sailing.

thanks! it took about 60 hrs once i got it home. it's now in PCB, florida with it's new owner. the graphic was on the boat and i can't say if it was original, but i think so. haven't posted in Tech.

i added 4 'before' photos for comparison. note the painted plywood sandwiches on the rudders!
http://www.flickr.com/pho…57628025362618/lightbox/
j

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Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
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arch

why make the thicker gelcoat thinner by sanding? won't it be difficult to sand only the raised sections without overlapping the oxidized gelcoat, thereby reducing it's thickness?
j

That's exactly what I was planning and did today. I used 600 grit wet on places where striping, numbers and strickers were and followed with 1000 grit wet entire boat.

the-renovator

Polishing and waxing is so "old school" IMHO. Far better to use a clear-coat finish, many posts here about using either Poliglow, Zep Wet Look Floor Finish, and others.

I agree now after I did some reading and ordered Poliglow today.

In regards to Zep Wet look Floor Finish - this is simple acrylic wax, that is prone scratches and scuff marks (at least on floors). I wouldn't use this one on my boat for simple reason that when is already worn, it would have to be stripped. Besides it may be pain in the neck to do small repairs. The advantage is that it can be buffed with hi speed buffer for mirror like finish.

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Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
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