http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=161006420608&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink en

This one might be worth a look. GH

--
'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
--

I call dibs. No one else bid

--
-Zach
--

Where is it? found it.. hidden right on top of the add



Edited by MN3 on Apr 12, 2013 - 11:50 AM.

its in my back yard

Quote

its in my back yard

Is that because you were selling it, or did you buy it? I'm thinking the smily means the latter.
IF you now own it, you will like it! I have an identical boat, same year, same color. It looks like there are a few small patches on the batten pockets. These wear, especially where they rub on the shrouds, easy fix at your local sail loft.
Both manuals are here in the tech section.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=35212
Try to get your diamond wires at the same tension, & spend a few minutes with the boat on the trailer to rig the rudders parallel, otherwise you will find it handles quite differently on opposite tacks.
I will want to rear the stern up on a stiff wind broad reach, sit/trap right at the tiller X bar & you're OK. I have only pitchpoled it once, & that was with water in the hull that ran to the bow.
It is the same to right as the larger 5.7, I need a bag unless I have 15+ wind.
I can do 20mph on the GPS with it, have not yet quite matched the 5.7, but very close.
They are a wonderful solo boat, & handle 2 well.
ENJOY!




Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 14, 2013 - 05:55 AM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Thanks Ed! We have been on the lookout for a while now and missed out on a really nice 5.0 in Dallas a few months ago, but it was more than i really wanted to spend anyways. (it had been for sale for 5 months and someone just happened to buy it 2 days before we made the trip)

I have read some of your 5.7 vs 5.0 comparisons and really thought about trying to find a 5.7 but for me and my girlfriend at 240-250lb combined weight, we need every little advantage that we can get. Dealing with larger boats on the sugary sand around here is kind of a chore as well.

Quote

I will want to rear the stern up on a stiff wind broad reach,

I should have proof read that...it reads totally wrong. I DO NOT WANT TO REAR THE STERN UP,EVER! It is supposed to read IT, as in the boat!

Quote

We have been on the lookout for a while now and missed out on a really nice 5.0 in Dallas a few months ago,

Good thing you didn't wait, Nacraman57 will be pulling his hair out, he has been looking for another 5.0 for a while.
You won't need a bag if you have the GF along, even a 100lb kid will be enough with yourself.
Those 2 manuals in the above link, one is slightly newer & has better photos. I changed the downhaul on ours from what the book shows. I use a V jam block with an "S" hook on one end.(photo does not have the hook)

This makes for fast rigging, once the mainsail is hoisted & hooked, just drop the "S" into the downhaul grommet, pull the line to achieve desired tension, & yank into the V groove. You can adjust on the fly, or slack the sail while beached without undoing anything. I can send a photo if all is not clear.
Get an Arriba FX-3 hiking stik, 8' long, you will need that length in order to get forward on the wire, in order to sink the bows when pinching/upwind.
Set up your rudders, then wrap about 5-6 turns of SS lockwire around the stamped "U" shackle that connects the tie bar to the tiller bars. The idea is to wrap them so they cannot turn on the bolt. IF they do, & they will, it no longer becomes a "U" joint, but locks movement of the rudders, always at the worst possible time. I have seen other solutions, this way costs 50 cents, 5 minutes, & works.
Read the manual, don't get over enthusiastic about torquing down the beam strap bolts, only 18 ft lbs, ESPECIALLY if you don't have end caps. Otherwise you will compress the groove the tramp goes in, & will never be able to get it off! Nacrman came up with a cheap & elegant solution to build end caps.
They are all in this album...While you're perusing that, look at the photo of stuffing a hull. I have done this on both boat, on numerous occasions, & she came back up.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=79084
If you don't have pivmatics, get some, especially if you sail in shallows. New rudders are expensive, & you can't use the more common 5.2(boarded hulls) blades, they are to short.
One drawback of the 5.0/5.7 is the hull rise at the stern. You need to be on a steep beach, or tip the hulls nearly 45* to drain them. No problem if you pull the boat everyday. We figured out a way to tip on the lifts they are kept on.
Sail it like you stole it... you will love the boardless, simple design, & the totally uncluttered tramp.



Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 14, 2013 - 07:09 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

have you sold the prindle? might have a buyer...
congrads!!! i hope to get down before april is over cause it's blowin' stank right now
see you soon!

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
--

So me and my girlfriend at 240-250lb combined wont have any issues righting it?

We just had enough time to wash some grime off today so I haven't had a chance to step the mast and figure out her downhaul setup. One odd thing i did notice was how the main sheet merely used an open ended hook to fasten itself to the mainsail. Is that normal for these boomless cats? It also had some odd contraption on the forestay(for the jib i assume).

Unfortunately it didnt come with many goodies like cat trax, arriba stick(fx4 on my prindle is brand new..), etc. But i think it may already have pivmatics? I went out and took a picture just too see if you could clarify that for me. Also curious if it has the correct rudders..





and what do i do about the tramp track separating from the hull? The other side had screws holding the track in and this side has rivets.




Bill, the prindle is for sale. Feel free to come test her out whenever, for as long as you'd like. If you and hank want to come give it a whirl just give me a call. I need some stuff for the new boat(mainly cat trax) and using the old boat to fund it would be a great way to do it. Hopefully we can meet up and sail soon because i read the p16 and n5.0 have very similar handicap ratings . I may also need to use your cat trax to get her to the water's edge...i think the p19 ones are a little too wide.



Edited by matt922 on Apr 14, 2013 - 09:14 PM.

Yep those are pivmatics. Rudders shape look good. Lenght wise can't tell.
I would drill those rivets out. Clean the crap from under neat the track and rivet back in with some silicone or marine tex in rivet holes.
Can't wait for more pictures.

--
Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
--

Quote

I can send a photo if all is not clear.
...

Ed, I would be interested seeing that in the pictues. As they say, picture is worth...

By the way, I installed my traveler car back on the track today. Works great. Thanks again.

--
Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
--

You need countersunk rivets so that the car will slide over the rivet heads, and using casings are a good idea.

--
Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
--

a friend might be interested in the prindle...i'll contact him today.
i have a tiller extension for you, whatever size you want, no charge!!
i am interested in sailing with the 5.0, cause i sail circles around another friend with a 5.2!!! you know who you are

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
--

Quote

So me and my girlfriend at 240-250lb combined wont have any issues righting it?

Correct, as long as you are athletic enough to be able to hike in a "plank" position. My buddy is 180lb, & it is not quite enough to solo right. I use a thick line, attached to base of mast. Just throw it over the hull, & hike. Test it on a calm day, you will find it helps to have some strategically placed knots. Seal the mast, the boat will sit on its side, with the top few feet of mast underwater.

Quote

One odd thing i did notice was how the main sheet merely used an open ended hook to fasten itself to the mainsail.

Correct, it makes life really easy when solo. Heading to shore, have lots of slack in mainsheet,(just grab all the lines & pull the clew over if you need a bit more power to reach shore). Round up into the wind, pop the hook out of the clew plate, release jib, & hop overboard & walk the boat where you want it. The jib will flog, & the main will go to "null".

Quote

It also had some odd contraption on the forestay(for the jib i assume).

Post a photo, it may be the 3:1 setup that the 5.7 came with.

Quote

But i think it may already have pivmatics?

Yes, it does. Those cleats are the older plastic ones. The teeth tend to wear, resulting in poor grip of the line. You can drill out 2 rivets & change the jam cleat if required. Once they begin to slip, you can also extend the life by using a thinner line. It will go down further into the "V", where the teeth are still sharp. The ruddrs & castings are original NAcra. IIRC the bladed measure 36" from tip to the hole where the bungee line goes. They are longer than the boarded boat rudders.

Quote

what do i do about the tramp track separating from the hull?

Drill out the old rivets, & replace with aluminum pop rivets, with a bit of silicone sealant. I did that after 2 years of pounding the heck out of my 5.7.

Quote

You need countersunk rivets so that the car will slide over the rivet heads

Myy 5.0 did not have a track for the jib blocks, they were fixed in one spot. The 5.7 has tracks, but the alumijum pop rivets did not stick up enough to interfere with the jib car. Ron's advice of casings is good, the holes may be worn. You can bend a short piece of wire,(small hook at 1 end) put it in the hole, & ascertain how long of a shank you need on the rivet, IIRC I used 1/4". If you have a hatch & can reach inside, I would add a small aluminum washer to spread the load. You could even use a strip of aluminum inside the hull, drill the end hole, rivet it, then drill the next hole, rivet & so on. That way you don't have to worry about the hjoles matching up.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Quote

By the way, I installed my traveler car back on the track today. Works great. Thanks again.

Good, glad to hear those bearings arrived & worked for you.
I cribbed this photo from Wolfmans N5.2, showing how to rig the downhaul.You won't have the boom, or wishbone, & the eyestrap on the mast should be below the cheekblock(he is using the one originally for the jib).
Feed the foot of the sail into the groove, place the "S" hook into the sail clew, pull the line to tension, yank the bitter end into the jam cleat. Rig it with "good" line, something stiff that will really stick in the cleat, & resist wear. Once it starts to wear, reverse it to get double the life. Better yet, get it 8" longer than what you need. You can then move the knot that dead ends it on the eye strap. That will move the point where wears in the jam, you get years of use out of 1 line.
Note how the "S" on the hook must be turned 90*to the body of the fiddle block, easy to do in a vice & a crescent wrench. If you don't do this, the block wears against the sail.
Make damn sure the little swaged ball on the main halyard is fully in the "fork" up near the masthead. The 5.0 is trickier than the 5.7 as the fork is closer to the top. I always bring the halyard towards the rear & give it a good yank, to get the line/ball fully into the fork. If you don't, it will pop out, & the downhaul tension will jerk the sail down, quite possibly tearing the sail right at the groove where you feed it into the track. This is a major PITA if solo when it happens as you have to dig out the halyard & rehoist the sail, while bobbing around at the worst possible time.


--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Look closely at where the tie bar meets the tiller arm. See the bottom the "U" fitting that holds them together? That is where you want to wrap SS lockwire to prevent that fitting from turning on the bolt.If it does it will lock up your rudders.
Murrays sells a double "U", for about $55, supposedly to prevent this problem. They can still lock up, just use 50 cents worth of wire, & save the $55 for beer, or a new FX stik.
Also, note the stopper knot in the traveller line. Put it in so the car cannot quite reach the end of the track. At some point you will gybe & not finesse the car. If it slams into the end of the track, it will shear the stop, go off the track, & $20+ worth of bearings will go into he drink. Cick on photo to blow up to full size.


--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Quote

Ed, I would be interested seeing that in the pictues.

Here is a better shot, of how it should be rigged. This is not my boat, I think it's an old shot from Philip(MUMMP), but this is how I do it. Ignore the stuff on top of the block, just rig as per his green line. I think he was set up with another piece of line dead ended on the other side of the mast, that ran through the sail grommet. If you hook the "S" hook onto that line it doubles your purchase, but you don't want to do that on your 5.0. Those sails were not designed to suffer those kinds of downhauls. If you have to attach a cheek block or eye strap, plan it out, you will want the fittings as low on the mast as you can get them,(you can't go right to the bottom of the mast as the base extends about an inch up into the extrusion) as the stock 5.0 sail grommet sits quite low. Note how he has fitted the eye strap to the top hole of the cheek block.
I never remove the system. When done sailing just remove the "S" hook & clip it to the bottom of the diamond wire, then snug up. See those 2 holes in the mast? If you have anything like that seal them! If you ever turtle the boat, you will severely regret leaving something like that open.




Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 16, 2013 - 05:40 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Ed, still haven't had much time to fool around with the boat as much as i'd like, but starting to notice a few little things. The more you talk about the rigging on this boat, the more i'm amazed at the sheer simplicity of it. I rolled out the sails today and it appears that 2 or 3 batten pockets have a reinforced area to protect against the spreaders.

The beam straps on the hulls that all round beam nacras seem to have... this 5.0 doesn't have them, is that something to worry about?

Also, you mention sealing the mast. There is a decent little void on the mast base casting by the sail track, is yours like that too? How did you go about sealing this primitive spreader setup? Just silicone it up?

Hopefully tomorrow afternoon i can take some pix for you guys to take a gander over. Everything so far seems to be checking out OK. Amazing how even a "cheap" boat in good condition can end up costing you a good little chunk of $. Tramp has a small hole, but i'll probably just try to make it through the season with the one it has, needs new shrouds(rust at swaged ends), i need some 8' wide cat trax(either buy the 8' cat trax axle and sell p19 without trax or take the hit and buy a set of new trax).

Edchris177

Quote

Ed, I would be interested seeing that in the pictues.

Here is a better shot, of how it should be rigged. This is not my boat, I think it's an old shot from Philip(MUMMP), but this is how I do it. Ignore the stuff on top of the block, just rig as per his green line. I think he was set up with another piece of line dead ended on the other side of the mast, that ran through the sail grommet. If you hook the "S" hook onto that line it doubles your purchase, but you don't want to do that on your 5.0. Those sails were not designed to suffer those kinds of downhauls. If you have to attach a cheek block or eye strap, plan it out, you will want the fittings as low on the mast as you can get them,(you can't go right to the bottom of the mast as the base extends about an inch up into the extrusion) as the stock 5.0 sail grommet sits quite low. Note how he has fitted the eye strap to the top hole of the cheek block.

That was an old set up. Ed, you are correct. The white line with blue and red tracers indeed goes through the cringle and dead ends on the other side of mast. There are alot of different blocks you can set up to do this. In the picture I used a Fico fiddle block with jam cleat. Simple, minimum amount of hardware and effective.

Here is the picture with the description.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…293&g2_imageViewsIndex=1

I later upgraded to a stiffer mast section to match a PE15 high aspect ratio main sail, which required this for the downhaul.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…290&g2_imageViewsIndex=1

matt922

The beam straps on the hulls that all round beam nacras seem to have... this 5.0 doesn't have them, is that something to worry about?

Sounds strange. What's there? Remember the Nacra's have different size beam straps for the main beam and rear beam.



Edited by mummp on Apr 16, 2013 - 09:44 PM.

--
Philip
--

Ed and Philip, I like your idea and I guess I will need some more parts. Do you think I can use some old main sheet blocks (upper section only)?

Ed, only 1 bearing ball survive the trip but that was what I needed. Thanks a lot

--
Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
--

I finally took a few pictures of the boat..

strapless nacra


Do all of the 5.0/5.7 have the short traveler track or just this early model one? (its an '83)


Seal it up or let it ride?


I ordered some new shrouds, but the forestay looks fine. Is that thing on the forestay used to tension it down?


It must not have too much wrong with it if i am worried over some cigarette burns in the tramp..


I measured the blades and they seem to be the more common(shorter) ones the boarded boats use... think it'll really have that large of an effect?

Quote

The beam straps on the hulls that all round beam nacras seem to have... this 5.0 doesn't have them, is that something to worry about?

No. My 5.7 ('84) has them, so does the 5.0('88). I used to think that all old gen Nacras used them, but then ran across a 5.0 with orange pinstriping that did not, & that was the factory setup. If you don't have them, it will have a 1/2 moon shaped block inside the beam, with bolts going through. Just make sure those bolts are snug.

Quote

There is a decent little void on the mast base casting by the sail track, is yours like that too? How did you go about sealing this primitive spreader setup? Just silicone it up

I'm reading 2 different things here, you mention spreader, along with mast base??? Nacra used several slightly different base castings, one of which left a gap. Have alook at the photos of my 5.7 under "members", I think I have some pictures. Also Gray Amicks 5.2. There is a thread somewhere,(try search) where we discussed the different castings, it had some good photos. I just arrived home from Japan, & am desperately in need of 12 hours sleep. If you don't find th elinks, I'll try to hunt them down & post them.

Quote

Do you think I can use some old main sheet blocks (upper section only)?

I'm not sure... the beauty of the block in the photo is it's light, thin, & holds the line like bear shiit in a buffalo blanket. I forget what the one from Murray sells for, I think mine is Ronstan, used on the adjustable trap setups, actaully Wolfman gave it to me gratis. They were popular on small mono hull dinghy's as boom vangs. You can probably find a used one somewhere for a beer.



Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 17, 2013 - 11:00 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Edchris177

Look closely at where the tie bar meets the tiller arm. See the bottom the "U" fitting that holds them together? That is where you want to wrap SS lockwire to prevent that fitting from turning on the bolt.If it does it will lock up your rudders.
Murrays sells a double "U", for about $55, supposedly to prevent this problem. They can still lock up, just use 50 cents worth of wire, & save the $55 for beer, or a new FX stik.

Ed, Can you elaborate on this?
I got my 1991 Nacra 5.0 late last year and I haven't got on the water yet and would like to learn from others and prevent possible disaster. The U bracket on your picture is mounted horizontally, on mine sits on the top of the tiller bar. My understanding is that when you turn the rudders, that U bracket has to rotate with the cross bar. Where or when is the possible binding?. Should the wire be wrapped over bracket and tiller or cross bar?

--
Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
--

I think I got it, wrap araund tiller bar to prevent rotation on that horizontal mounting bolt!
Does anybody had the same problem with bracket mounted on the top of the tiller bar?

--
Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
--

Quote

Do all of the 5.0/5.7 have the short traveler track or just this early model one? (its an '83)

My '84 (5.7) uses that track. The newer 5.0('88) has an integral track that goes the full length...don't worry about it, but DO TIE A STOPPER KNOT IN THE TRAVELER LINE!

Quote

Seal it up or let it ride?

Seal it with a glob of silicone RFN! Actually, it is no problem, unless you turtle, then my friend, you are f#$cked!

Quote

Is that thing on the forestay used to tension it down?

Yes. That is an expensive bit of kit. I use one on the 5.7, as I leave my boat rigged all summer, save for the mainsail. By pulling the pin & releasing the lever, you dump some tension, that is how the boat is left. When going sailing, pull the lever to tension rig, insert pin, then hoist the rags. If you trailer & set up every day, you don't need it all all.

Quote

It must not have too much wrong with it if i am worried over some cigarette burns in the tramp..

It is easy for a hole like that to "grow". Stand your heel on it while raising a mast, you might possibly hear a dreaded ripping sound. Get any canvas or awning maker to sew a patch over it, make the patch big, 10x the size of the hole.
The boat looks pretty nice, especially if you got it for a Grand. I see no fine cracks around the beam attach points, tramp looks good. I see it is the same as mine, no track for the jib blocks, just the eye strap. Spend $3 & buy the Harken stand up springs. They will keep the jib blocks from banging on the hulls & marking them. You will find that it is a beitch to install the blocks with the springs, McGyver a way to compress the spring while you get the shackle & pin inserted.
I think I see a pin through the mast base, meaning it is the captive system. This is safer, the mast can't pop off the base while raising/dropping, remember to remove the pin after raising. Look through my album...there is a photo showing why you MUST turn the mast 90* when dropping. If not you WILL lose the dolphin stiker rod & possibly the mast base.
Those hulls look fine, do not waste another minute making them look pretty, sail it!




Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 17, 2013 - 11:11 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Quote

No. My 5.7 ('84) has them, so does the 5.0('88). I used to think that all old gen Nacras used them, but then ran across a 5.0 with orange pinstriping that did not, & that was the factory setup. If you don't have them, it will have a 1/2 moon shaped block inside the beam, with bolts going through.

My 91 N5.0 has straps and anti rotation bracket inside the bar. I think you have to take the caps off to see what's inside. If it is just small bracket with 1 bolt that most likely it will need strapping. If there is solid bar assuming with multiple bolts, that may be enough to hold all together.

Quote

Do all of the 5.0/5.7 have the short traveler track or just this early model one? (its an '83)

Mine has longer, the same kind as Ed's.

Quote

It must not have too much wrong with it if i am worried over some cigarette burns in the tramp..

When you step on it you may make it bigger. I would stich something over that hole.

--
Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
--

Edchris177

Quote

Do all of the 5.0/5.7 have the short traveler track or just this early model one? (its an '83)

My '84 (5.7) uses that track. The newer 5.0('88) has an integral track that goes the full length...don't worry about it, but DO TIE A STOPPER KNOT IN THE TRAVELER LINE!

Quote

Seal it up or let it ride?

Seal it with a glob of silicone RFN! Actually, it is no problem, unless you turtle, then my friend, you are f#$cked!

Quote

Is that thing on the forestay used to tension it down?

Yes. That is an expensive bit of kit. I use one on the 5.7, as I leave my boat rigged all summer, save for the mainsail. By pulling the pin & releasing the lever, you dump some tension, that is how the boat is left. When going sailing, pull the lever to tension rig, insert pin, then hoist the rags. If you trailer & set up every day, you don't need it all all.

Quote

It must not have too much wrong with it if i am worried over some cigarette burns in the tramp..

It is easy for a hole like that to "grow". Stand your heel on it while raising a mast, you might possibly hear a dreaded ripping sound. Get any canvas or awning maker to sew a patch over it, make the patch big, 10x the size of the hole.
The boat looks pretty nice, especially if you got it for a Grand. I see no fine cracks around the beam attach points, tramp looks good. I see it is the same as mine, no track for the jib blocks, just the eye strap. Spend $3 & buy the Harken stand up springs. They will keep the jib blocks from banging on the hulls & marking them. You will find that it is a beitch to install the blocks with the springs, McGyver a way to compress the spring while you get the shackle & pin inserted.
I think I see a pin through the mast base, meaning it is the captive system. This is safer, the mast can't pop off the base while raising/dropping, remember to remove the pin after raising. Look through my album...there is a photo showing why you MUST turn the mast 90* when dropping. If not you WILL lose the dolphin stiker rod & possibly the mast base.
Those hulls look fine, do not waste another minute making them look pretty, sail it!
Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 17, 2013 - 11:11 PM.

Notice that I was an idiot, & turned the mast the wrong way...there was no way to remove the pin(1/4" bolt). I said screw it & went & got the bolt cutters. See how if the mast is not turned, & kept turned to line up the slot, you will break things?

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Regarding the lack of beam straps, the piece you are referring to is called the internal beam casting (part#2511).

Regarding the length of traveler track, the earlier boats came with the harken track bolted to the beam. Later models include the track as part of the beam extrusion, therefore, it goes all the way to the end. This pic shows the aluminum track extruded into the beam.


--
Philip
--

Quote

Also curious if it has the correct rudders..

Here is a thread on the different Nacra rudders.

http://www.thebeachcats.c…ms/viewtopic/topic/12764

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Edchris177

Quote

Also curious if it has the correct rudders..

Here is a thread on the different Nacra rudders.

http://www.thebeachcats.c…ms/viewtopic/topic/12764

yep, unfortunately it has the wrong rudders. At least they are in really good condition though.

I took a beam cap off just to take a look-see...


I have been trying to find some albums on beachcats of a 5.0 and i can't say i saw one besides a few random 5.0 pics taken by nacraman57.

Mainly just taking note of the very minor differences between boats during the years. The spreader assembly on some early boats goes through the mast, while some have the more usual raked back spreaders.

Anybody gone through the hassle to fabricate a n5.0NA setup(bridal foil and big jib)? Some pictures on google seem to make you think the boats were sold standard with that setup in different parts of the world.

Quote

Ed, Can you elaborate on this?
I got my 1991 Nacra 5.0 late last year and I haven't got on the water yet and would like to learn from others and prevent possible disaster. The U bracket on your picture is mounted horizontally, on mine sits on the top of the tiller bar. My understanding is that when you turn the rudders, that U bracket has to rotate with the cross bar. Where or when is the possible binding?. Should the wire be wrapped over bracket and tiller or cross bar?

Sorry, I missed this post.
Mine was originally mounted vertically, you can see the bolt hole if you click on the photo to enlarge it. You are correct that in that case, the fitting needs to rotate as the rudders move.
There were two problems with that setup. first, the fitting got in the way of the rudder lock down line.
Second, with a vertical bolt, you have a lever effect. Everytime you work the rudders that bolt is shoved to/fro. It ended up enlarging the hole, & resulted in slop. It also meant the tie bar was 2" higher, than if mounted the other way.
You are correct, if mounted vertically, it cannot jam, & you don't need the safety wire.



Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 22, 2013 - 08:06 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

matt922

I have been trying to find some albums on beachcats of a 5.0 and i can't say i saw one besides a few random 5.0 pics taken by nacraman57.

Be a hero, make one with lots of detail pics and rigging tips.

Instructions for creating albums (do it in the technical album) are here in the FAQ
http://www.thebeachcats.c…/how-do-i-upload-photos/

--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

How To Create Your Signature

How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
--

Thanks Ed, that makes sense. I saw the proximity of the PIV brackets and possibly rudder line jamming or wraping but I haven't thought of lever effect. Will keep close eye on it. Thanks

--
Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
--

Quote

Be a hero, make one with lots of detail pics and rigging tips.

I started a combined one of the 5.0 & the 5.7...just have not got it finished. Hopefully this summer it will appear!

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--