So, it really sucks getting your main stuck in the halyard lock at the top of the mast, and I am sort of getting tired of it. I think the halyard line that I have sucks (2" of stretch every time I pull on it to release the ring) so I am going to replace that, but I was wondering if I could safely get rid of the halyard lock all together? Couldn't I just rivet an H141 Pivoting exit/150 Cam-Matic block to the mast and use that to cleat my halyard at the BOTTOM of the mast where it is much easier to work with? Would the block be able to take the load of my 10:1 downhaul? Would the mast be able to take the load of the block/cam?
You can find a pic and stats on the block mentioned here: http://www.apsltd.com/c-4…rkensmallboatblocks.aspx

Edit: I have a NACRA 5.8 of '83 vintage.



Edited by foxtrotzulu6 on Apr 26, 2013 - 11:17 AM.

I would NOT do that. I think you'll find that a non-stretching halyard will make worlds of difference. In the meantime, check the sheave at the top of the mast and make sure it doesn't have a worn spot.

With those two items in order, the only time I've seen the hooks cause trouble is with new, very stiff, sails, where they don't want to bend around the track/boltrope seam...which is hardly something to complain about. Just gotta htfu.

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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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foxtrotzulu6, Welcome to TheBeachcats.com,

In general it is NOT a good idea to try to reinvent a system on your boat. The better path is to figure out why it is not working for you, on your boat. Sometimes it is just a matter of technique, and sometimes a matter of old equipment not being in original factory shape.

Do you have an assembly manual to make sure everything is as it should be? They are a good place to start even though some things may have been improved over the years. Take a look at
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=35357
and download these tips.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…863&g2_imageViewsIndex=1

If you had a Hobie 18 I could give some specific tips, hopefully the 5.8 experts will chime in. Where do you sail, maybe we can get you someone to check your setup.

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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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Replace the sheeve and halyard, clean the mast track and lube up the bolt rope of the sail. It should be easy after that.

I had a block at the mast base start to give up oer the weekend, the additional load was 10x as bad just because the block only spun half as well. All of the little things will add up fast.

There is no way the halyard would work with a 10:1 downhaul if it was not hooked.

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Greenville SC

Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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Would having the main halyard under tension for the length of the mast impact the mast bend or structural dynamics?

I thought one of the benefits of the Aussie jib halyard was that the jib halyard did not fully load the mast like the old style halyard, at least at the higher tensions possible with the Aussie.

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Ted
Hobie 16
South Carolina Lake sailing
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yelkenli1

Would having the main halyard under tension for the length of the mast impact the mast bend or structural dynamics?

Yes

--
Greenville SC

Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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Don't get rid of yoru halyard lock. What you are talking about won't hold up to a 10:1 downhaul. Even with low stretch line there is significant stretch in 30+ ft of line. Just replace the halyard with low stretch line it will make your life easier. If want a sure way to get your ring off the hook tie the end of the halyard to the side of the ring. and lash the halyard to the mast after raising the sail. This will give you something to pull the ring to the side when you are unlatching it. Just maks sure it doesn't break loose.

Jib halyard is a different animal. They are much shorter and don't need to be under a lot of tension so you can get away without a lock at the top of the sail.

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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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when the main head/ring is sitting in place on the hook the only compression on the mast is from the downhaul (a 1:1)
when you run a line up and back down the mast and cleat it at the bottom it is now a 2:1

yelkenli1

Would having the main halyard under tension for the length of the mast impact the mast bend or structural dynamics?

I thought one of the benefits of the Aussie jib halyard was that the jib halyard did not fully load the mast like the old style halyard, at least at the higher tensions possible with the Aussie.

OK, scratch the halyard lock deletion idea. I'll just replace my halyard and hope that I'll get better at taking it down when it needs to come down. Will single braid dyneema or vectran work to replace my halyard? Coverless will save me some coin. I assume it won't really have to be abrasion resistant (it won't be under that much load once the halyard is locked, and I won't really have to handle it that much.

Quote

Replace the sheeve and halyard, clean the mast track and lube up the bolt rope of the sail. It should be easy after that.

ditto...

and sometimes the mast likes to be rotated one way or another...

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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Single braid hi tech lines will work, but they are very slippery. That would be frustrating as hell if you are trying to raise the sail and it decides to bind (like it often does). If you can afford it get a small diameter low stretch blended line like Salsa. If not just get some Sta Set, it's as low stretch as you really need.

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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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foxtrotzulu6

Will single braid dyneema or vectran work to replace my halyard?

Yes, but don't go too small or the line will jump off the sheave up top when you turn the mast. I use a dyneema SK75 tapered to a doublebraid. You have a double braid in hand for pulling the halyard ring off the hook, then HMPE for the rest. No stretch at all. It ain't cheap but I recycled a back-up spin halyard. I've also used Amsteel for the entire length which worked fine also.

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Philip
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