Hi, I just bought a 10:1, http://www.murrays.com/archive/20-21.pdf , like the one in the PDF. Unfortunatley, I did not get the instructions to assemble with it. Could anyone give me a lead as to how to set it up properly. Thx!

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Proud owner of a Mystère 6.0
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Send me a PM with your e-mail address and I can send you a PDF with a simple drawing that you can connect the numbers and feed your sheet through the blocks per the numbers.

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Craig
Windrider Rave Hydrofoil
Nacra 5.2 Restored and heavily modified
Nacra 5.2 (one under restoration)
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.8NA
SoCal
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Thank you for the help guys

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Proud owner of a Mystère 6.0
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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be careful.
mysteres were designed with a 7:1
I use a 9:1 and make sure i don't over do it....

click, click, snap!

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Hi, I just bought a 10:1

I have a N570 with a 8:1. In heavy winds, I can barely hold on to the main sheet. I know, it wouldn't kill me to get in shape! Sometimes, if I attempt to let out an inch in those heavy conditions, the whole sheet blows through my hand and we come crashing down. I'm about to get a 10:1 as well. Does anyone know, are there any downsides to going from 8 to 10? Besides those suckers are very expensive! Thanks

Downside is 25% more line to pull in or let out. So an armlength of line is less sail movement.

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Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
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I have a N570 with a 8:1. In heavy winds, I can barely hold on to the main sheet. I know, it wouldn't kill me to get in shape! Sometimes, if I attempt to let out an inch in those heavy conditions, the whole sheet blows through my hand

It may seem like a dumb question, but...
Do you have ratcheting blocks?
Are they turned on?
Reason I ask is I sail a 5.0 & more often a 5.7. The 5.7 is not much different than your newer,(& nicer) 570.
I only use a 7:1, & only cleat it on calm days. The "hold" is not that much, & I can easily slip an inch or a yard if need be. I generally wear Harken 3/4 gloves, makes life easier on the hands

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Downside is 25% more line to pull in or let out. So an armlength of line is less sail movement.

If you add 1' of pigtail on your blocks, you can remove 10' of line from your system (and deck)

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Does anyone know, are there any downsides to going from 8 to 10? Besides those suckers are very expensive! Thanks

You can run a line through your top blocks (and add a block with a becket on the bottom) and turn them into a 9:1 for very little money (you could even turn them into a 10:1 with this method) - i found a 9:1 was more than sufficient (and reduced my chronic shoulder pain)

I spliced a piece of dynema in mine

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If you add 1' of pigtail on your blocks, you can remove 10' of line from your system (and deck)

I'm not sure he can do this with the 570. Your Mystere seems to have lots of room between boom & deck. The boomless setups less so. My 5.7 when tightly sheeted has the blocks only about 8" apart, & I set the "S" hook right onto the main clew plate.

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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gotcha...

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The boomless setups less so. My 5.7 when tightly sheeted has the blocks only about 8" apart,

Here is how my 7:1 low profile is set up. I wouldn't have room to add the line as Andrew does.

Tangled, do you have the same type of Harken blocks?
See the small black "pointed knob", right in the middle of the block? That turns the ratchet on/off.
I was out today, in pretty good winds, weather buoy recorded 16kts (18.4mph) gusting to 21 kts,(24mph).
I was sheeted fairly tight, but could hold the main between thumb & forefinger. If I needed the hand to adjust the jib,(I was solo), I could move the main sheet to my tiller hand & comfortably hold it under my thumb.
If I want to haul more sheet in, that is a different matter, I need to pull with a full hand grip, but once it's in. it is easy to hold. I would look into a ratchet system if you don't have it, as opposed to going 10:1.



Edited by Edchris177 on Jul 17, 2013 - 06:20 PM.

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Tangledsail

Does anyone know, are there any downsides to going from 8 to 10? Besides those suckers are very expensive!

More purchase= More friction= slower response when letting the mainsheet feed out in a hurry.

Don't buy cheap thick line that causes additional friction.

More than one cat has crashed into something at a dock because they couldn't power down fast enough.



Edited by klozhald on Jul 17, 2013 - 06:31 PM.

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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modern composite blocks and good line make up for an extra purchase or 2.
Also, 8mm racing sheet has never given me an issue and if it did, i could taper it down even more to let it run faster.

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More purchase= More friction= slower response when letting the mainsheet feed out in a hurry.