At the top of the mast there is a round casting that has the main halyard sheave inside. Mine has some kind of extra piece attached to the bolt, looks like it was probably a mast-head wind vane. Also the bolt is extremely rusty, I'm assuming the original stainless was replaced with a hardware store bolt at some point, maybe when they installed the wind vane.

Can I simply remove the rusty bolt and extra piece and replace with a stainless bolt? Looking at the parts guide it looks like this whole assembly has been replaced by a part with two sheaves.

Also, my whole casting is loose from the mast, it's only held on by two rivets, one on each side, just pop in better rivets?



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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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~~ Yeah, it looks like a ''wind-thingy'' & relpace that bolt.... Pop a few more rivets in there and you should be good to go.
A two sheave is for a comp-tip.... Thats one big sheave for a all metal mast.... squirt some WD-40 in there, it won't hurt.. Also the halyard lines are different from a comp-tip / all metal mast

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Yup....folks who are replacing that sheave and some who install bobs are just using a SS bolt. The masthead is in compression and open to the inside of the mast (can't be sealed), so it shouldn't be a problem if it's just a little loose. If you do decide to repair, I'd replace existing rivets rather than drilling new holes. (You can drill new holes after you knock the head off when you drop the mast while trying to raise it without the hinge per your other thread!)

If you do remove the existing rivets, I'd recommend that you take the head all the way off and inspect/clean/reseal the foam plug that should be just (a few inches?) below the top of the extrusion. That plug is important since the head can't be sealed as described above.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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Thanks for the info popeyes7 and Jerome,

I had wondered if there was a plug in this one. The rivets are so loose I'll remove them and the head casting and see if there is a plug. If there isn't, I guess I'll try to make one.

That way I'll know how to fix it the second time after I accidentally drop the mast in the driveway.

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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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should be a foam plug glued in at or just below the halyard hook...

you could replace the rivets no big deal... if the holes have corrosion, drill new ones

we've swapped a few all alu H14 masts here at OSYC converting them to Wave size.. which means:
- cut them shorter
- install new or relocate the shroud tang
- change out mast base
- change out mast head
- install hobie bob

all said and done maybe 1 hour..

talking about Waves... some "durability" issues we've learned from our more or less rental Wave fleet:
- double up the shroud tangs on the hulls... use two... just 1 and it'll break.
- order 'plus size' rigging (typically from Murrays)
- comptips can't take a beating from sailing school, etc, etc...
- old style tramps are a drag
- buy drain plugs with a hole in the thumb tab for screwing them in... tie a line through the hole or you'll burn $$ buying drain plugs 2 or 3 times a season...!!
- if you don't DEMAND folks to turn the boats into the wind while on the beach you WILL rip sails when battens poke through...
- TAPE the tail of the bowline... or else SPLICE, the righting line to the boat... otherwise folks untie the righting line when they think they're untying the tie-down line (to the ground)... then they leave the untied righting line on the beach... go sail.... flip... and say "I couldn't right the boat because it didn't have a righting line..."

Ah... gotta bring out the Beach NAZI Big GUNS...

cheers! - Rob.

It looks like the P/N for the plug is 8090900, but it shouldn't be hard to make one if necessary. When we got our 14 we quickly learned we had leakage issues....mast weighed a ton. The top plug (there's another above the base) was several feet down from the head. Had to extract it with a coat hanger bent like a corkscrew attached to a broom stick. When I finally got it out, gallons of foul mud and water came out. If I recall, there was also a (aluminim?) plate attached to the bottom of the plug.

I used silicone to seal, but I think the experts recommend Silkaflex(?).....reportedly sticks better and stays flexible. I tried to use it once for a different application....beware, it was very runny.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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