I would like to replace the wire line in my Hobie 16 jib. The reason is that there are broken strands in the wire line that is wrapped around the tack thimble.

I am looking for an illustrated breakdown of parts for the jib that shows the size of wire line, its length, thimble size, shackle sizes and types (head uses string and tack uses a shackle), swage materials (I saw 'cotter pin' used for the piece of metal that gets compressed, not sure if that is the word though), and recommendation on length to cut the wire prior to installing the thimbles and swaging.

I looked at some Hobie materials online but did not see this level of detail. A link and recommendations would be great.

I have a non-aussie forestay that I can use as material for the wire line. the length is sufficient; this is indicated by holding the forestay side by side with the jib. I may even be able to use on of the existing swaged-in thimbles. Any comments if that is a good use of this material?

Here is a picture of the parts of interest. You can see the condition of the sails - they are old with patches and you can see a tear in the pocket at the head, which is cosmetic. On the tack shackle, there is white corrosion, which looks to be cosmetic at this point.



Thanks,

--
Ted
Hobie 16
South Carolina Lake sailing
--

Ted, just so much easier to order the luff wire for the H16 from either Salty Dog Marine or from Murrays, they have the dimensions already or you could measure your luff wire, then just order 2 shackles for the thimble-to-grommet connection, they are longer than normal. Both companies have hydraulic swaging machines to do the job properly.

That looks like a good option. I read some posts on swaging and it looks like some work. I also would have to purchase the tools which look to be more than buying the luff wire.

I assume the luff wire with the thimbles swaged in will fish through the luff pocket?

--
Ted
Hobie 16
South Carolina Lake sailing
--

That is correct, but just to make sure, measure the width of your luff pocket and ask the supplier what size thimbles they will be using so that you know the thimble will feed through the pocket. Your boat might have an after-market jib.

How often should that be replacted?

--
Angelo
1983 Hobie 16 Cat fever #55697
2008 laser 4.7/radial #190471
SARASOTA, FLORIDA
S.S.S
S.Y.S.P
--

Not much sailing going on right now due to rain, so I have not moved this project forward. I looked closely at my luff wire as installed, and here is where it stands:
-The sail is Hobie made
-however, the tack luff pocket has a patch. maybe a repair? It does not appear the installed thimble would be able to pull through the patch (but so close it is hard to tell); and given the size of the installed thimble, I would expect the replacement to have the same problem. The rest of the luff pocket seems to be big enough.

If the above is true, the repair will require sewing, which I have never done.
Or is that patch standard Hobie issue and replacement with a like wire will be no problem? The patch is heavy like leather, which could be chafe guard against the fore-stay chain-plate.

Here is a pic:



Also, at the head, the luff pocket is torn, which you can see in the first pictures of this thread. It does not appear to be a problem. The sail is not new.

Let me know your thoughts, and any idea of cost of a sail maker doing the repair.

Thanks,

--
Ted
Hobie 16
South Carolina Lake sailing
--

When you remove the old wire make sure to use a length of line tied to the old wire. That way when you go to install the new one you can use the line to help get the new one in. After the new one has been installed, tie it between two trees or whatever, fix one end then use a length of line and pull the sail tight, then tie off with the remaining line.

Quote

I would like to replace the wire line in my Hobie 16 jib. The reason is that there are broken strands in the wire line that is wrapped around the tack thimble.

See discussion here: http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=43506&p=191536&hilit=jib+luff+wire#p191536

I've seen jibs with the leather patch, but it's been a while. Given the age, frayed strands, and tears, I wouldn't spend any effort or money on that jib. Because they're always up and flogging, H16 jibs take a beating and lose their shape much quicker than the main. Serious racers replace jibs twice as often as mains.

Therefore, I'd use a little JB Weld to cover the fishhooks on the thimble, nuke it 'til it blows, and save those repair coins toward a newer jib. With the forestay properly rigged, you won't dismast if the luff wire breaks....would be just like breaking the halyard......exciting, but not fatal!

--
Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
--

Hullflyer: great recommendation on the technique. But what is the purpose of stretching it out? Is that to get the sail luff and the wire to line up? Is the next step to secure the sail grommets to the thimbles? On the tack, there is a metal shackle of fixed length. At the head, there is line holding the thimble to the grommet.

rattlenhum: Also thanks. Great recommendation and ammo to persuade my wife that a new jib is needed (as well as a new main - to color coordinate ). I was worried that the shock of losing the luff wire would damage the bows or mast somehow and maybe even dismast. How tight is your rig without the jib? I don't think the jib would dampen the shock if the thimble lets loose. But it probably would if the wire in the luff pocket lets loose. Have you seen this failure before?

--
Ted
Hobie 16
South Carolina Lake sailing
--

If you pull the new wire tight between 2 points and fasten the one end of the jib with the shackle it will allow you to pull the luff of the jib tight with the line. End result should give you better sail shape especially the leading edge of the jib allowing you to point a little better. If you do not do this, you may get the wire tight when you crank on the jib halyard but the leading edge of the sail may be a little loose. I also would do this ever so often as the material will stretch over time.