Can anybody tell me which parts are interchangeable for different Prindle cats like the Prindle 15,16,18.
Are the rudders the same and the beams etc.

Thanks for the help

The rudders and rudder castings are. I'm pretty sure the beams are too. Masts are not.

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Rob Jones
1976 Yellow p-16 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1978 Yellow p-16 - in good working order
1979 White p-15 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1985 White p-15 - good working order
1982 White NACRA 5.8 - project boat.
1986 White p-16 - in good working order
1975 White Hobie 3.5 - PM me if you want it
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Booms, masts, rigging, tramps and sails all differ for the Prindle 15,16,18.
Rudders and castings are the same.
The P 18-2 and 19 have few shared parts with the Prindle 15,16,18.
Are you looking for something specific?

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Well, I got the change to buy a really cheap 16 so was thinking buying it for spare parts to my 15.

That would probably be beneficial if it is a steal. IS the 16 not sailable on it's own?

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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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Yes it is at 200 euros for a complete boat who can be wrong.

Do not know the real difference between the 15 and 16 apart that is probably is 1 foot longer.

Quarath

That would probably be beneficial if it is a steal. IS the 16 not sailable on it's own?

you might like the 16 better...the jib makes tacking much easier and the 16 carries much more weight...

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Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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16 over the 15 any day - unless the 16 has hull cancer.
I just bought a complete 16 with a galvanized trailer for $300 us - the hull are soft though.
I needed a new trailer so it's a good deal - beyond that though, I find many of the salvage parts to be untrustworthy! So if the hulls are rotten, be sure to look closely at the things you want off it - if those parts are beat too you might be better off using your cash to buy what you actually need new.

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Rob Jones
1976 Yellow p-16 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1978 Yellow p-16 - in good working order
1979 White p-15 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1985 White p-15 - good working order
1982 White NACRA 5.8 - project boat.
1986 White p-16 - in good working order
1975 White Hobie 3.5 - PM me if you want it
--

Indeed I found out that tacking is a real pain in the A on the P15.
Does anyone have tips/advise for me.
I am a real handy small and big boat monohull racer but tacking the P15 made me look like a beginner and costs me dear on the racecourse.

tips to tack a p15? just one - put a jib on it.



Edited by rwj0j0 on Jul 19, 2013 - 07:38 AM.

--
Rob Jones
1976 Yellow p-16 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1978 Yellow p-16 - in good working order
1979 White p-15 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1985 White p-15 - good working order
1982 White NACRA 5.8 - project boat.
1986 White p-16 - in good working order
1975 White Hobie 3.5 - PM me if you want it
--

Reminds me of my first days on H-14! You must roll tack it! Sneak up to close hauled, throw the rudders (half way), and STAY on the old side in back corner til you feel boat is ready to capsize atop of you, then scramble to new high side. Pete

I just finished renovating a P15, took it sailing, it was a little rocket, untill you had to tack, what a b-yach to tack, so I threw a small jib on it a-la P16 style and it made a huge difference. But if I was in your shoes, I would keep the P16 as my regular sailer and use the P15 for parts.....or just sell the P15. Check it out.

http://www.thebeachcats.c…ctures/?g2_itemId=100876