Hi,

So my Nacra 5.2 didn't come with any righting lines attached, the manual says to tie one around the middle of the front crossbar and store it on the tramp, I cant help but think that:

1) Middle of the crossbar would not give as much leverage as on the end / pontoon
2) It would be easier to have a line that retracts like the standard system on my H14

I plan on sailing solo and am 180lbs so righting maybe an issue anyway, but that aside how have you got your righting lines rigged on a 5.2?

Thanks

Anthony

unless you have a system installed, i don't know of any cats with righting lines "standard".

Quote

Middle of the crossbar would not give as much leverage as on the end / pontoon

you will still throw the line over the hull that is in the air, and stand on the hull in the water... and lean out... same no matter were you line is tied too.

I had a velcro pocket sown into the bottom of my tramp so when i capsize ... it is right in my face.



Edited by MN3 on Aug 29, 2013 - 09:09 AM.

MN3

unless you have a system installed, i don't know of any cats with righting lines "standard".

Oh ok, I think its a Hawaiian type having lines running down outside each pylons and a bungee under the tramp; maybe I will take it off the H14 before I sell I and see if I can adapt it to the Nacra.

MN3

you will still throw the line over the hull that is in the air

Ahhh, yes that makes sense not sure why I didn't realise that before! Like the idea of putting a pouch under the tramp.

If you were to put a Hawaiian or similar style system with a line down each side on a Nacra (i.e. integrated tramp so cant put down the side of hull) would you put it on top of the tramp and pull it over the hulls (more leverage but harder to get to when inverted), or under the tramp I easy reach?

Thanks

Ants

I have been thinking about rigging something like that up myself... The Hawaian system makes it MUCH easier to hang on to in waves.On the tramp I don't know that I'd be able to get a hold of it though and on the underside makes the angle you have to hold on to your weight more acute, meaning you need to pull harder... Through the beams might get in the way of my feet when tapping out...

OTOH, I have had a righting pole under the boat, but the fittings (my own selection of random parts from the boat box) broke during its first real test... I never bothered after that, preferring just to stand on the dagger board. Balance is harder that way, but I can pull her up solo (200 pounds) that way (but only if I keep my head on and take the time to get everything just right). I think I'll give the Hawaian style line a chance next.

Dennis

Interesting to hear your experiences Dennis, I have wondered about making my own righting pole system do you have any pics of what you made to compare against.

Like you I imagine that a line would have to be above the tramp, I am wondering about possibly running a bungie along the hull between the two pole end caps and fixing it to the righting line in the middle so it holds the line (hopefully) within reach but I suspect it would get in the way sitting there when sailing.

Anthony

I weight about the same and couldn't right my 5.0 with a righting line. Then I replaced it by a N5.5 and tryied a righting bucket that didn't work either. Most likely it's a technique issue, but I don't like to be on the edge so I went to a righting bar. The daggerboard loop "concept" is really simple:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKuSSZ7JxBA
After testing a couple times, I cut the tube about 1 feet above the rope. I also run another line from middle of the cross beam and above the hull, which helps with balance.

http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=79873 Here you go. I am working on a simplified version of this that uses the tube that ran down the middle of my trampoline which I got rid of when I replaced the trampoline, then I'm using aluminum square bar for the pivot (that can be cut down, notched, and drilled with tools that most DIY guys have at home). This one is great but has some pretty heavy machining work, I have access to a full machine shop but my goal was to make a simple but not nearly as pretty version of this and document it. I 'm hoping to wrap it up in the next week and I'll make a album.

--
Cesar (Cez) S.
Hobie 16 (had a few)
Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
--

Wow. looks cool but how long is the pole? where do you keep it?

Quote

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKuSSZ7JxBA
After testing a couple times, I cut the tube about 1 feet above the rope. I also run another line from middle of the cross beam and above the hull, which helps with balance.

The boat is a bit far away to measure it, but it is about 2 or 3 feet longer than the distance between cross beams. I store it below the tramp, parallel to the hulls. In the front it goes between the dolphin striker and the cross beam (not centered but towards one hull). The engineering challenge is to set all the ropes with bungees in such a way that you don't need to roll anything when storing or attach anything when using it.

I said I cut it 1 foot above the rope attachment but i think it was a bit more actually, just in case. In practice I would suggest to test it as I did in the video. Roughly I apply my weight near the ropes attachment. I don't hang from the bar as in the video but sit on it and walk backwards. The balance point is with my butt at the rope. (So if you cut it too short, the tube end may feel a bit intimidating for your virginity..).


On my N5.0 I tried a righting bar centered on the cross beam, as the one that Cesar shows above. It broke before I could make it work, but with that experience I found it to be less effective than the one attached to the daggerboard, because of the following:
- It has to be longer. If you hang from it vertically, your feet are on the water and it looses efficiency. If you hang with your feet and arms like a koala, then the center of gravity is not applied so far aft. The fact of being attached to the beam rather than the hull also means more length needed. On my one and only experience the the pole was just too short, about the tramp length as in the picture, which wasn't enough.
- It was attached to the beams just like the one on the pictures (I copied the same one actually) but I also added an additional attachment at the middle of the bar to avoid braking it. Totally useless, if the tube starts bending that line won't help at all, it just looses tension. On my current setup I also use a second set of ropes from the midde wich does work. (probably unnecessary for that windsurfing mast but it still reduces a bit the bending).
- Per my experience, it is necessary to have a righting line to hold to and avoid that the pole swings back and forth. That was a real pain on my short experience.



Edited by Andinista on Sep 04, 2013 - 12:42 PM.

Also, if you store the pole centered along the tramp it may be a bit painful when you walk on it or hit it with your knees when sailing or stepping the mast. (except for the N5.2 actually because there is already a tube there... but for the rest).
If stored on one side (say 1 feet from the hull) it doesn't bother.



Edited by Andinista on Sep 04, 2013 - 01:13 PM.

Here is my inspiration:
http://www.youtube.com/wa…47E3B1B1E50434B5&index=1
This one is much shorter than mine (the righting pole I mean), for two reasons:
- The attachment point at the daggerboard slot. (mine has the loop that needs some more length).
- See how his weight is further back of the pole end. I took a more conservative approach and always sit on the tube rather than standing at the end of it. That saves the need to make some sort of termination to be able to stand on it. (yo need support to be able to move your weight aft, otherwise you would slip on the tube).
This one is good too:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTRS5pTZGV4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haVkIz5cic4



Edited by Andinista on Sep 04, 2013 - 01:26 PM.