We went out sailing this weekend. I brought with me two new replacement shrouds. We thought we took the cautious route and decided to put the shrouds on after sailing for the day. Surprise, the starboard shroud broke while underway. The end result is a small puncture in the main, some scratches on the cross bars, and about 2 hours of absolutely beautiful wind wasted .

When replacing the shrouds, I checked the other hardware. Regarding the anchor bar and pin at the shrouds, is there any issue with corrosion on the anchor bar? There is some on both my anchor bars. One is worse than the other; both seem to be solid though, and the corrosion just surface corrosion (I think).

How frequently do you replace bridle wires? At the hull bow, there is a tang held on with a nut and bolt. The bridle wire connects to the tang, then to a shackle on the lower part of the 10 hole stay adjuster. Do you replace the tang and hardware also when replacing bridles?

Thanks,

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Ted
Hobie 16
South Carolina Lake sailing
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I don't believe so on the Hobie 16 (others may respond, but on the Prindle 16 & 18 the tang is held by a bolt going into hull (not a worry) and another small stainless bolt going into an aluminum bar. On several occasions I have seen the bar totally corroded , bent & about to break. Pete

I replace my standing rigging every 2 years. I consider it an easy, somewhat inexpensive task considering the peace of mind it gives. I keep mine on the beach and i feel like that shortens the life. Never replaced a tang or anchor bar and have never demasted, although that doesn't prove anything. Curious where the shroud broke and the conditions at the time.



Edited by jalex on Sep 02, 2013 - 02:26 PM.

The starboard shroud failed at the mast tang. The wires failed inside the first swage component.

jalex: Does standing rigging also include bridles?

'Standing rigging' has many parts. I will not replace the anchor bar. The anchor pins look good also, but based on a post here, I will replace. Shackles are cheap, so will replace those. All that is left in question are the twist toggles and chain plates.

http://www.thebeachcats.c…ms/viewtopic/topic/12980
This one indicates the pins changed design on the 18s at least

http://www.thebeachcats.c…ums/viewtopic/topic/1892
single to double swaging (did not help in my case - failure of wires in first swage, and probably not the swage itself)

I could not find other posts dealing with failed components other than lost shackles and ring dings.

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Ted
Hobie 16
South Carolina Lake sailing
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Partial hijack about to happen. I am in the process replacing the standing rigging and I just found out that the anchor bars for my bridle are fused to the bolt. I was thinking of cutting the heads off the bolts with a dremel. Anybody ever have this issue?

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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
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Yes, when I replace standing rigging I do brindles, shrouds, forestay and the pig tail to the jib halyard block.

peterk123, this is exactly what I stated in post above. Inner stainless bolt first fuses to aluminum bar stock, later it pulverizes aluminum which then breaks. Must be watched carefully on P-16 & 18's used in salt water. Pete

if you have an impact driver the heads will snap off. I replace mine with new aluminum ones and they fused the next season so I made a set from stainless bolts...drilled and tapped them.

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Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Thanks guys. I just posted the pics and how I removed the screws in the technical pics section. All hail the dremel :)

I just ordered new tangs, screws and anchors. I will apply some grease to the screws and check them often.



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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

That doesn't look like stainless or aluminum to me!

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Rob Jones
1976 Yellow p-16 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1978 Yellow p-16 - in good working order
1979 White p-15 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1985 White p-15 - good working order
1982 White NACRA 5.8 - project boat.
1986 White p-16 - in good working order
1975 White Hobie 3.5 - PM me if you want it
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TEF GEL is your friend.

truly amazing product. I have seen it used for a few years now and it completely prevented any corrosion in every place i have seen / used it. also lubricates / prevents galling of beam bolts

peterk123

Thanks guys. I just posted the pics and how I removed the screws in the technical pics section. All hail the dremel :)

I just ordered new tangs, screws and anchors. I will apply some grease to the screws and check them often.

Question ? On a 1987 Prindle 18, In order to replace the bridle wires there are two screws holding the bracket on the forward area of the hull. Can those screws be removed and returned without accessing the inside of the hull ? thanks

The inboard screw threads through the lip of the hull and into a steel bar under the lip. This screw can be removed completely. The other screw goes into a fitting/nut that is supposed to be glassed in however I would not chance complete removal. If you remove the inboard screw and loosen the other you should have enough play to replace the bridle wires without having to chance complete removal.

I removed the screw completely no problem. However, what I did was loosen it first just a little and tried to move the screw up and down. I had no movement so I removed it completely. I replaced the tang and the screw.

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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
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