So the new old boat is slowly coming together. New lines, standing rigging, etc. all set.

The sails are very old and I was tempted to have them refurbished in a couple of months. However, given that they are probably 30 years old, new ones may make more sense. I was wondering what people's experience has been with refurbishing such old sails, or if there is a point where it doesn't make sense anymore.

I found a couple of like new nacra 570 jibs for a great price. Do you feel that they are compatible and could be a viable replacement for the existing jib? I think the 570 may be ever so slightly smaller, but I am not sure.

If I eventually go with a new mainsail, does the square top make sense, or are the older boat masts not designed to work properly with them? I windsurfed for twenty five years, so I really learned a lot about mast bend and sail tops opening up in gusts. It was a game changer.

If it makes sense to go with a square top, what would you recommend for a downhaul system?

So I can't sleep and working is almost impossible ever sense I picked up the boat. I forgot how much fun they were to tinker with. Hopefully I can get it on the water before it gets too cold around here :)

Thanks Pete

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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

if you can afford it - get new sails (both jib and main) - there is no better upgrade
Yes get a square top, why get a slower sail (unless you race with lots of stock boats)

I wouldn't spend much money on a downhaul upgrade since your mast is very stiff, the downhaul is limited
but i would upgrade from the stock 3:1 (if i recall correct) to a 4 or 5 to 1 (

Quote

If it makes sense to go with a square top, what would you recommend for a downhaul system?

Check the beachcats classifieds "sails" for a nearly new set of stock sails. Pete

peterk123

I found a couple of like new nacra 570 jibs for a great price. Do you feel that they are compatible and could be a viable replacement for the existing jib? I think the 570 may be ever so slightly smaller, but I am not sure.

New or used, go with sails made for your boat.
Avoid the whole Frankenboat scenario, especially with the amount of work you are putting into it.
A square top sail will out perform a pinhead, and the masts are the same.
Choose a good sail maker and have them suggest the downhaul and diamond wire tension.
Or go with a good set of older sails and use the heck out of them until you decide you are ready for square tops.
The square tops sail differently, and are less forgiving than the original sails.

--
Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
--

Quote

New or used, go with sails made for your boat.
Avoid the whole Frankenboat scenario, especially with the amount of work you are putting into it................ or go with a good set of older sails and use the heck out of them until you decide you are ready for square tops.

could not have said it better, +1 on that advice. Pete's sails would be a good buy.......

http://www.thebeachcats.c…8-sails-2c-near-new.html

Thanks for the feedback guys. Lots of good info. I just sold all of my windsurfing equipment this summer. The funny thing is that a new windsurfing sail can be almost as much as a modern cut beach cat sail. It's one of the reasons I got out of the sport. It is crazy how much money the gear is. Beach cats are a deal compared to windsurfing :)

I will post some pics of the boat once I have it back together. So far I have refinished the rudders, got a bunch of tidbits for the rudder up/down function, have new lines, new standing rigging, and I am in the process of pulling every bolt and fitting off so they can be cleaned or replaced and sealed. Then there is the trailer; all new lights and new wheels. I tore the bearings apart as well. I was too cheap to buy a new extension tiller so I purchased an aluminum painters extension for $14 and riveted a small section of the old tiller end to it. I will eventually post in the technical pics section. Cheap and should work just fine. I used to snap those things left and right, so it kills me to spend much money on them.

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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
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Congrats on your new boat... This too was my first catamaran.... It is an awesome ride..

BTW... Pbegal can hook ya up with just about everything..



Edited by JohnES on Sep 06, 2013 - 05:08 PM.

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John Schwartz
Ventura, CA
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The rudders.............

Old:

Updated:



The castings really need some cleaning but that will be a winter project. I also found small plastic knobs on ebay for four bucks that will be used for the downhaul line. They are on their way.



Edited by peterk123 on Sep 06, 2013 - 06:18 PM.

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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

The hiking stick that came with the boat was not in the best shape so I came up with a solution. A $14 painters extender stick. I cut off the end of the original hiking stick and riveted it on the painters extension. Given the rate was snapping expensive hiking sticks twenty years ago, I figured this would be a good cost effective alternative. I saved the original hiking stick so I will have plenty of tubing to build additional sticks :)




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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

If you want used sails, Pete's are probably the best bet

but don't think any used sail will give you the same feeling as a new sail ....

A NEW sail has 10 or 15 uses that will make you want to get a new set every year. it is an amazing feeling ....but after a few good days sailing in 15-20 ... that new sail feeling gets worked out....


Also i disagree that square tops are less forgiving... they typically produce more power than pin tops but when overpowered, the top section of the sail folds back and depowers the top of the sail.... making them actually more forgiving in a puff than a pin top.

Quote

Or go with a good set of older sails and use the heck out of them until you decide you are ready for square tops.
The square tops sail differently, and are less forgiving than the original sails.

Curious how you broke so many hiking sticks? Never broke one in four years of sailing and I have been
knocked over more than a couple of times.

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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Pete, actually its quite easy :) Usually when I am trapping and I get knocked off by a rogue wave. I'm not smart enough to let go of the tiller and bam, I now have two tillers.

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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

I pulled the plugs, and the rudder brackets, because the guy gooped a pound of silicone over the fittings. Ya, that was fun to take off. Anyway, imagine my surprise when I stuck my finger in there and felt a wall of dirt. Fifteen minutes with a hose cleaned the insides of the hulls quite nicely. So, here is what happens to pine needles after thirty years. Note to self, keep all portholes covers closed.....



I think I lightened the boat by ten pounds.

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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

I keep my boat tilted back with the ports and plugs open. I sail in salt water so every time I come home I rinse the boat down and rinse the inside of the hulls. I put a pair of strings in the plug holes to wick out the last puddle of water by the drain. the hulls stay bone dry even after a rain storm. the key is not letting moisture stay in the hulls. the ports tend to leak on these old boats(I recommend re-sealing/replacing them) and rainwater ends up in them. if the boat is level/sealed up the moisture has nowhere to go but into the foamcore making the hulls "sour". with the ports off, no heat/pressure/moisture can build up. rig up a screen or something if leaves are a problem but leave them open if you can, it will fight soft spots

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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I like the wicking idea. So, did you have the trailer stand custom made?

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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

believe it or not, cats (and other animals) love to get into hulls without ports on them

I have an old set of ports that i drilled a 3" hole in added a 5" straight pvc pipe and topped that with a u shaped pvc tube so rain water couldn't get in. i covered the hole in the with bug screen.

Quote

rig up a screen or something if leaves are a problem but leave them open if you can, it will fight soft spots

Mr. Captain Coastrat, looks like you need to replace those rudder lines, I've got some spare line ifin you needs it. Over

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Hank, Hattiesburg, Mississippi, P16 - "Sideways"
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Quote

Mr. Captain Coastrat, looks like you need to replace those rudder lines, I've got some spare line ifin you needs it. Over

that's an old pic...lines have been replaced. time to put on the new tramp though...maybe the new sails get here soon...winds are starting to pick up!

--
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Working on the Jib Cleat pigtails. The galvanized metal wire (not stainless) was epoxied. So I sanded it off and drilled new holes.





I am thinking about swabbing the holes with epoxy before installing the wires.

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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

New lights, and wiring. New wheels. Pulled apart hubs, cleaned and repacked them. I soldered all the wire connections and used plastic flexible conduit to give the wires a little protection from the elements. I am so sick of trailer lights that don't work. Hopefully these steps help.



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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

peterk123

I am so sick of trailer lights that don't work. Hopefully these steps help.

I share your frustration.
What solved it for me was submersable LED tail and marker lights, soldering all possible connections with a piece of plastic straw on one side so that after it cooled I could slide the straw over the solder and fill it with silicone to keep the water out. I used hose as you did to protect the wires around the wheels and on the tongue connection.

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
--

Well, she is pretty much ready to roll. Waiting for the new old sails to show up (thanks again Pbegle) but the original ones are good enough for a test ride tomorrow or saturday. I cannot believe how much work it has been and I haven't even touched the hulls. I spent a couple hours cleaning the mast with a scotchbrite pad and some marine wax. It was worth the effort. I also "manufactured some curved nylon bushings for my tiller. No more slop in the steering :) I need shorter bolts and some lock nuts though; one more Lowes run. Painting project in the plans for the winter or early spring.





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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

Okay, I promise this is the last set of pics, other than maybe a fully rigged shot tomorrow. I worked on making her travel ready. First was a solution for keeping the rudders on. I stole this idea from someone else. Works good. I made some velcro mast/line straps, purchased some small velcro straps so shrouds could be coiled on tramp, and made the mast trailer happy with proper support.











I am open to ideas to make trailering better and easier so let it rip.



Edited by peterk123 on Sep 14, 2013 - 05:16 PM.

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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

Quote

Painting project in the plans for the winter or early spring.

Before you think of painting, do a quick search on Poliglow, a clearcoat finish for gelcoat. Gelcoat is a far harder finish than paint, far more durable and will last for years, Poliglow will renew the gelcoat finish and only has to be re-applied every 2 years. From experience, though, Poliglow does not bring out the high luster shine on white hulls as it does on color, but it still gives the gelcoat that clearcoat protection and ease of cleaning.

R

Quote

Gelcoat is a far harder finish than paint, far more durable and will last for years,

I believe that this depends on the paint in question.

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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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Soldering is definitely the way to go, but I would suggest cleaning the solder joints with acetone or brake clean to get rid of the flux from soldering the joint. Then use a product called "Liquid Tape" brushing the joint and up the plastic coated wire at least a half inch. I put on two coats, this will keep any salt from getting to your wires. Keep the Liquid Tape lid on snug, but even then after a period of time, you will notice it thickening up. Don't throw it away, add acetone to the container a little at a time, stirring it in, and it will thin back out for use.

Quote

I soldered all the wire connections and used plastic flexible conduit to give the wires a little protection from the elements.

I wouldn't travel long distances with the rudders on, your solution looks interesting, but still. In any case, be careful not just on the highway but particularly on small roads and short distances, where you will tend to relax with the tying.. I broke the tiller crossbar like that, I touched some light bushes on one side and it went all the way. I was going very slow and the bushes seemed light enough, but I wasn't thinking about the tiller.. once it moves to the side a little bit, it goes deeper into the bushes very quickly.

Quote

I wouldn't travel long distances with the rudders on,

....I agree, remember, with the rudder at right angles, there is now more weight acting on the gudgeons and pin, and with any bump all that force is doubled, even trebled. Even though you have the block inserted to stop the rudder from bouncing, all that force will now be acting on the pins/gudgeons.

Deuce

Soldering is definitely the way to go

Thread a 4" piece of thick plastic straw over one end before you solder. Use silver solder. Move the straw back over the joint and seal both ends with silicone seal.

the-renovator

Even though you have the block inserted to stop the rudder from bouncing, all that force will now be acting on the pins/gudgeons.

Your rudders will get sloppy quickly if you trailer them this way, and it is a lot of work to fix it.
Take your rudders off at the pintles- yes both rudders and the crossbar- fold and store them in your cat box when trailering.



Edited by klozhald on Jan 16, 2014 - 03:45 PM.

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
--

Do you guys have any good ideas to replace pulling a cotter pin everytime?

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New Prindle 18-2 Owner
Former Prindle 18 Owner
Multiple Hobie 16s
Boylston Massachusetts
Webster Lake Indian Lake Narragnsett Bay in Rhode Island
--

What I do is remove the rudder from the casting, I have teased the knots on the rudder lines loose,where the lines terminate inside the rudder. I remove the pivot pin with an 11mm wrench, loosen the 2 knots on the rudder lines and remove the rudders, insert them into their protective covers and stored in my gear-box for transport, the lines are tied together with a simple slip-knot to secure. When I install the rudder, a simple over-hand knot is used when the rudder lines are re-inserted, they loosen easily when needed, sometimes I have to use pliers to coax them loose. Takes me an extra 5 min to install rudders but saves on wear & tear when trailering. I am a trailer-sailor, nearest lake to me is over 1hr driving.



Edited by the-renovator on Jan 17, 2014 - 12:03 PM.