I am putting together an H14 from two boats. One came with a furling jib setup where the jib blocks were attached to the bottom of the shroud adjusters with a line. My question is would it be better to go with the standard H14 setup with the grommets in the tramp or convert it to the H16 setup with the tracks on the front crossbar? Also open to any other options.

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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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~~ Hi Pete,, I had a 14T with the jib blocks mounted on the shroud adj. It really doesn't work that well. If you have alotta pressure on the jib you have to get on the tramp and get real close to it to release it... (PIA). I almost lost control of my boat messin with it when it's blowin hard with some big waves.... I changed it to the tramp where it's supposed to be... I could use it with no trouble at all. The blocks have to be LOWER so you can release it better... I tried the 16 set-up with the tracks... That doesn't work either!!!

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~ Vietnam Vet 69-71~ 17 Hobie w/big jib, ~18 Hobie mag,~DN Ice sailor,
and other toys.......
~~ I live in NY state on the north shore of Oneida lake in
Bernhards Bay. ~~~~~~
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Pete, the H14T has a jib block support wire that runs under the tramp from hull to hull, the tramp has 2 grommet holes positioned above this wire, the jib blocks fit through the grommet and attaches to the jib block support wire using shackles. If you have that setup already, stick with it, also note that the H14T has a dolphin striker to help spread the load of a jib, HTH

R

I would go with the standard setup (cable across the bottom of the tramp, blocks attached through grommet) if at all possible. I don't think the 16 setup will work well. My daughter has a 14T and other than having some reinforcement done to the tramp we have not had any issue with it. that boat really flies and is perfect for a medium sized adult solo or 2-3 kids. I sail it solo on the trapeze and if I dump it, I can right it no problem.

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Kenneth Purdy
Hobie 16
Nacra 5.2 (2)
Banshee
First Coast, Florida
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Thanks for the advice. Was hoping the 16 setup would work, but the grommet/cable is easy enough to rig.
Anyone have measurements where the grommets go?

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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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You can find it in the Hobie 14 FAQ section on their forum. Page 6 gives the directions to set your grommets. http://static.hobiecat.co…al_assets/e_turbojib.pdf

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Mac
Midlands South Carolina
AHPC Viper USA 366
A Cat USA 366
Super Cat 17
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Don't go with the Hobie 16 set up, it doesn't work, period. Many people have tried rigging 14s with jibs in other-than-factory ways and hve not had much success. This is a good example of letting the factory figure it out.

I have converted a LOT of 14s, so I'll try to save you some frustration:

If you can find a trampoline with the Turbo grommets, buy it--it is a lot easier than installing them. The grommets you need are not the standard ones like the lacing grommets that you can get at Home Depot. They are HUGE and are a specialty item. You will have to take your tramp to a professional company that works with fabric like a tent maker or maybe a boat top shop. The grommets run about 20 bucks each and you should sew a reinforcement backing to the area where you will install them.

You will also need special chainplates to connect the jib block support wire under the tramp. The later 14s had the Turbo one from the factory, but most 14s didn't have them. They wrap aound the siderail and curl under the tramp a little bit and have a big hole in the end to connect the jib block support wire. You can replace them with the newer set or just add a second standard one next to the ones that are already there. Caution, though, you are adding holes to an already stressed area on the beam.

You HAVE TO HAVE a dolphin striker! The after market ones that Murrays sells are great. They go on easily and work well.

The best jib blocks are the Harken 2.25" blocks with a becket. The jib block support wire is expensive since it has a turnbuckle, so I went to West Marine and made a bunch. I made the wire in two pieces. Connect one end of each to the chainplate and measure them so that they are about 6 inches short of touching in the middle. Then, tie a small line between them and tighten. That setup runs about $20 and works.

The rest of the stuff is easy. It is a great winter project and you will have a lot more fun on a Turbo.

Dan,

Thanks for the tutorial. I have the tools for #4 spur grommets, but not for the needed #7 so it will be a trip to the canvas shop. Lucky that my newer boat came with the turbo chainplates. The older one had a jib setup with the nice harken blocks. If I can't find a used dolphin striker setup, 90 bucks at murrays is not bad for the
kit. I will use your advice and go the west marine route for the cable.

Pete

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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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We don't need #7 grommets for our Tornado wire that goes under the tramp to carry the jib blocks. Simply use a #4. The trick is turn boat or platform upside down. Attach wire to turbo chainplate (with tramp installed & grommet where you want it). Run end of wire thru one slot in nicopress sleeve, then swing it around to come in from the same direction into other slot. This forms a loop (without a thimble) which you can squeeze a little to go thru the #4 grommet. Compress the sleeve and continue over to other grommet & do the same. Finally connect to other chainplate. All our Tornados on our beach have used this system for several years. I like a double reinforcement patch before setting grommets. In addition we use discarded pieces of garden hose to fully incase the wire so we don't feel it crossing the tramp. Pete

And Pete K., I do have that Turbo dolphin striker, just no time at moment as it landsail season & we're finishing a new proto type. Pete