In order to depower in strong winds I ease the traveler (besides other adjustments of course) but then I cannot pull and ease the mainsheet as with the traveler centered, because when pulling, the traveler moves windward instead of tightening the mainsheet.

I thought of one of the following modifications, please give me your opinions.

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I cannot pull and ease the mainsheet as with the traveler centered, because when pulling, the traveler moves windward

on all cats i have been on:
with the main sheeted (hard), you will need to release some main sheet tension to move the traveler out
once out - the heavy air should keep it in place when you re-sheet the main - if it wants to slide back to center i put a foot on the cart to make it stay in place

conversely when you wish to bring the travler back to center - you need to unsheet the main a little to give you the slack to move the traveler car without so much tension

otherwise you are actually damaging (sharpening) your track or grinding up your gear (perhaps not as much of an issue on trailer cars with bearings, but on old school tracks like the h18 or my mystere ... it is very bad and will create RAZOR sharp edges that need to be sanded back down from time to time)

PS i have seen Darts with custom traveler cart guy lines like you have shown above to assist with getting a stuck cart to move (not a cart that is moving to much, but it could work for both i think) but it was a captive line (went around a block on each side), not a free line like your red line above shows)



Edited by MN3 on Jan 07, 2014 - 07:57 AM.

My drawing shows a captive line too (you can click on it for a larger image).
The whole point for me is to be able to re-sheet the main keeping the traveler car in place, it has bearings and definitely slides back to the center .. I will normally be on the trap, not worried of adjusting the traveler but sheeting in and out the main very often, without a chance to use my foot to keep the traveler in place. The traveler would be adjusted when tacking or every once in a while but not often. The set up on the second picture is probably faster to set up, probably keep the blue line in place and just switch cam cleats on the red line.

If I am not mistaken, The hobie 14 already has something similar to this.

--
Tyler holmes
Panama city, FL

Boat whore
--

my bad, I meant no slack in the system

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My drawing shows a captive line too

my friend had a system on his dart20 but it was a for light wind, it is similar to yours but without blocks

from friend: "That was something I added to help move the car on light air days.
I had an eye strap at the end of each beam with a twist shackle and small block. I then ran a line around the blocks at each beam and tied the line to the traveler.
Hope this helps"


if you look close you can almost see it on the rear beam

I see, thanks. I think i'm solving a different problem. I wonder if others ever experience this issue.

We have a system quite similar to your upper pic on our ARC22, with the exception that we have 3 to 1 purchase(needed with a main this size!). The system does indeed lock the traveller car wherever you wish, and has the added benefits of allowing the car to be sheeted to windward of center(better pointing and earlier hull flying if desired), and if the leeward sheet is left uncleated, the car can be run by the crew, controlling power better than sheeting the mainsheet in and out. All very slick and effective. We have enough additional sheet in the system to have the excess between the two cam cleats run thru bullet blks that are bungied (on long shock cords under the tramp,) to the outboard corners of the main beam. This allows sufficient sheet for the crew to run the traveller from the wire, even quite a ways forward, and have the slack line stay on deck when not being handled.

Build the cam cleat brackets out of thin enough stainless so they can be easily bent up and down to allow adjustment for easy cleating and uncleating, whether seated on the hull or on the wire. Ours are mounted one foot either side of center, facilitating the windward sheeting, which we use regularly in light air. When tacking/jibing we drop the traveller to the new preferred position before the maneuver, which is faster and easier.

Dave



Edited by davefarmer on Jan 08, 2014 - 10:57 AM.

Cool, thanks. I would argue about the early hull flying if the theory is just based on the lever arm change by moving the car. It's kind of the same discussion of rightingh with a righting line from above or below the uper hull.

Yeah, I've followed that argument. But it's hard to argue with that quick tug on the ARC's traveler which instantly pops the hull free, and feel the boatspeed picks up noticeably. I've owned and sailed a number of high performance cats, and there's something special about this boat, it's an amazing apparent wind machine.

Fair enough! Empirical demonstration is better than theory for me too..

I did it. It's nice to have the traveler where you want it, but it lost its simplicity.. I didn't move the existing swivel cleat, just added a second one one side, so I have the choice now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgQxIS0TDDM



Edited by Andinista on Feb 02, 2014 - 11:40 AM.

The music is as good as the sailing. Who is the artist?

--
Ted
Hobie 16
South Carolina Lake sailing
--

An amazing one: Rahsaan Roland Kirk. The music on my video is "Pedal Up" from the album Bright Moments
It's not so contemporary as it sounds. Check this, you'll be surprised..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0JJmwq7KXQ
Now having two swivel cleats for the traveler doesn't seem overdone anymore...



Edited by Andinista on Feb 02, 2014 - 05:29 PM.

Any Jethro Tull fans? Ian Anderson got some inspiration from him...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kb3UlZ5dbEs