Got my new to me H20 rigged last weekend, all new sheets and lines. Stepped the mast and hoisted the sails. Thanks Joe! Looked 90% correct except the jib halyard.... I downloaded and printed out the manual from hobie and examined it closely on the jib and it makes no sense to me. Is it rigged like a H18?

#1 My jib halyard is a very skinny~ 30' (sister clip undone leaves about 20% remaining to tuck away )1/8th" line with a block and a ~3ft 3/16"pigtail. I hoisted the jib up by the skinny line( down the front of the mast) and ran the pigtail through the little cleat that looped through the pulley back to the cleat and then tensioned it up, disconnected the halyard at the sister clip, seemed pretty normal and looked good, however, i've seen that same line ran back through the jib zipper and looped and cleated at the little cleat thats on the jib itself?? if thats the case, what its the jib tensioner that cleats to the front of the mast base? If i pull the halyard back through the jib there's nothing left over to cleat there, am i missing a line completely?
A pic or short vid of your jib halyard setup would be awesome here!!

#2 My mainsheet block has an extra block, right on top of the cleat. I've rigged it exactly as the manual states and this is not used at all..... at some point in my boats past, the previous owner has added a really nice 1.5" harken for some reason. Thoughts? just remove it and be happy or is it there for something useful?

My Jib cars are behind the negative rotation cam cleats. Concerns or just personal preference? They're at the back of the trampoline pocket. Move to the front? or just try it out and see if it operates smooth

Yes, i have to clean and lube the luff track, couldn't get the main sail up the last 18"..... Note - the mast is 10+ feet taller than my house!
Rotation limiter not installed yet... but thats very simple :)

Thanks you guys!!!
Tim


PICS!















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Tim Grover
1996 Hobie Miracle 20
Two Hobie 14's
1983 G-Cat Restored
Memphis TN / North Mississippi
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#1 The jib halyard should be run down the mast like you described. Going through the jib zipper would only be done with a furler and I don't see one in your pics. Also, going through the jib zipper makes the downhaul adjustment unreachable.

# 2 Looks like the makings of a 9:1, need a pic of the upper, Is it a Quad with a Becket?

# 3 the jib cars should be placed so the when you are going to windward, the top and bottom tell tale brake the same when sheated tight, in other words the foot and the luff of the jib have the same tension, bringing the car back put more tension on the foot and bringing it forward puts more tension on the leach.

Pointing the boat straight into the wind will help raising the main and also getting it to unhook when lowering.

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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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