Hey folks - your thoughts on how you've solved this problem...

problem: the jib car on my Hobie 21SE releases downward. Even with the block adjusted in it's most upward position - when the jib sheets are under a lot of pressure - it's hard to release. No amount of slapping the jib sheet results in a reliable release. The problem is compounded when you get out on the wing and on the trapeze - of course this is when you want to be able to release the jib at a moments notice every time...

My jib car has a block with a becket and an adjustable cleat that the sheets are led through that pivots up and down. The block has a spring underneath it and is shackled to the jib car. I'll post a picture tonight. I'm sure it's stock / original equipment.

I've noticed that for teh Hobie 16 you can get a jib car that releases upward - but I'm concerned that will not take the load of the H21SE.

Any thoughts on the best way to resolve this issue? Anyone else experienced this?

Thanks - Andy

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Andy Gardner
Hobie 21SE "Lickity Split"
Cowan Lake Sailing Association
Foster, OH
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The 21 uses the same system as the H18. I know crews on the 18 often struggle with releasing the jib sheet. It mostly comes down to practice and technique. Having a slightly heavier sheet helps by adding some momentum when you snap the line out. The trick is to allow just enough slack in the line so when you whip it back, it pops out of the cleat. Too much slack and the momentum won't transfer all the way to the cleat. Too little slack and you won't develop enough momentum in the line. Having Harken cleats also helps.

The other thing that you can do (I know this has been done on 21s before) is to remove the cleat from the jib sheet block and mount it to the wing tube on the opposite side of the boat. This way the cleat is right by your feet when you're on the trap. The problem is that then the cleat is always in one spot and not necessarily in a convenient location. You also end up always having a high tensioned jib sheet running across the boat.

You can also invest in Oxen blocks. They're expensive, but the cleat mechanism is integrated into the pulley, so you can lock and release them from anywhere on the boat just by pulling on the line.

sm

Harken cleats will go long way to solve the problem. Have a pair. Screw holes are slightly different requiring drilling base plate holes larger to install them. Pete

Did you try to pull first and release under tension? Not saying it's the ideal but it might work. It's how you uncleat the mainsheet, isn't it?

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. No amount of slapping the jib sheet results in a reliable release.

the issue typically is that you are to far forward on the boat. being on the wire / sitting on a wing make things MUCH worse. (crew often has a hard time uncleating the jib if the blocks are dialed in for solo sailing (skipper runs all the lines)

The way to get the jib to uncleat in anything but the "sitting skippers" position will require a perfect "slap" where you shoot a curve down the line so it hits the block/cleat perfectly. this is a combo of perfect technique with a bit of luck.

I have seen people add "extensions" to their jib block adjusters (the part of the blocks that you can adjust to set the angle) to help with this but it makes uncleating from the "sitting skipper" position harder.

Oxen blocks are sweet but extremely pricey and they wear out with use and must be re-built. If money isn't an issue, go for those blocks.

you got it MN3 - exactly what I was trying to say... So, the guys at the local sail shop thought the Oxen blocks weren't reliable... Anyone have experience with these blocks? Does Harken have an equivalent?

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Andy Gardner
Hobie 21SE "Lickity Split"
Cowan Lake Sailing Association
Foster, OH
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I sail with a guy who has/had them

i have played with them and seen them when they wear down and need a re-build (i think it was over $100 for the rebuild)

they are awesome when they work but they can jam up (if you over sheet and have no more room to pull on the sheet for the internal mech to release)