I looked through your album, & I know funds are tight;
Trap sheaves, don't worry about them. I have had several sheaves break, but the pin will stay. You can still use them, without the sheave til you change wires.
Same thing for the traveler sheave, if it breaks the pin will hold the line. It looks like an old Kenyon, I had the same thing on an old 5.2, it had "Kenyon" stamped on it. Don't put any lube on it. If you can find sheaves that fit, change them. Just be careful removing car from track. The wheels are sitting loose on short studs, they will fall off & spill TINY bearing everywhere.
Use a small block of closed cell foam,(something smooth...I stole a bit off the wifes yoga mat), make it wide enough so you have to squeeze it a bit to make it the width of track.
Squeeze & slide car onto foam block, then wrap some tape to keep it there, reverse to install. Do I need to remind you NOT to let those wheels fall off!
Use your traveler cleat,it looks serviceable, once the teeth get worn, they won't hold. They are easy to change, I have a bunch of them. You don't need the whole thing, just the jaws, they disassemble easy. Use blue Loctite to assemble, you don't want that small bolt coming loose.
The tramp looks pretty beat, but is probably serviceable, I would have it completely restitched with good UV thread.
The fitting on the front beam looks like a gudgeon for a rudder pin, same as on your transoms, don't know what they added it for.
When you rig your rudders, use the bolt holding tie bar to tiller to hole your bungee, it's easier than figuring out how much extra to stretch it to make up for the distance it slides back down the tube to the pivmatic pin.
Mast rotator- you might want to forget about it til you get used to the boat. It has to be released every tack, & if you forget, you can break the mast...there is a note somewhere in the manual about that. See my old Nacra 5.7 album for how to rig it.
DON'T leave your diamond wires as is. If those arms slide up or down on the wire, you lose the integrity of the truss, & all the strength. You can use rigging tape,(the bit of seizing wire the manual calls for is not great), but the cheap fix is a roll of electrical tape. Get coloured tape,(the black leaves icky residue) then tightly wrap it in a figure "8", above & below the spreader bar. That will prevent any movement of th e spreader on the diamond wire.
If you don't have those little plastic donuts on the diamonds, just above the spreader, add some. They keep the jib from wearing as it rubs on the bars. You can buy a set that clip on if they are missing, this is what I put on the 5.0.(I used the smaller size, for 3/32" wire IIRC...they were $18)
http://www.westmarine.com…par--jib-rollers--111864
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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I don't think I'll have to remove the car. I just duct taped it on to the track before I removed the track.
rivets that didn't make it all the way through the casting so they could pull/mushroom properly. Essentially just a little friction from a very soft metal in the sidewalls of the hole. Oh dear. I can't believe half their fittings didn't rip off the boat.
