I just recently rescued a 1963 Shark catamaran from criagslist (FREE!). I have sailed Hobies, currently have a H16. Any way, I have started to restore this boat, it actually is not in that bad of shape considering that it has sat the past 10 years on it's trailer un-used. the owner had stored all the rigging, and sails inside, so they are all in great shape. I am going to need to replace the deck area, which is not to hard as it is just basically plywood. I am also going to need to rebuild one of the dagger boards. also not that hard to do, but here is my problem. I am not familiar with these boats, in order to repair the dagger board I need to remove it, but it is held in place by a bolt I assume. And it appears the only way that I can get at it is to some how crawl into the hull and take it out. This might sound easy enough, but I am not shall we say the correct proportions to accomplish this act. So before I cut a hole in the deck to access this bolt I thought I would see if there are any sailers on this site that are familiar with these boats and could share any advice on removeing the daggerboard. Thanks in advance.
That is an awesome project! Can't wait to see the results. I recall that almost all the Sharks were home built from plans. Plywood covered in fibreglass or even just plywood, paint and sealant. Not sure how the boards are supposed to work. Do a search for plans and stick a digital camera with a flash into the crawl area to get a look see. Also take some photos to try and figure out how the decks are attached. Often the decks in the older boats are just attacked with thickened epoxy or sealant and can be pried off with little damage. Or you may have to cut and patch it put an access port in. Lots of options either way.
I've never seen a Shark in person but always thought it would be a cool boat to have for the local lake. Especially one of the ones that show off their natural woodwork.
I always wondered how well the Shark's "fold in the middle" trailering system worked in practice.
Please keep us updated on how the restoration goes. Feel free to create your own photo album for the project in the Technical section. Link to instructions below in my signature.
Damon, I can tell you from living next door to Tom Linton, 6 time Nat'l champ, for 5 years, folds like a charm. Just take the bolts out, get under front with your back, then the back, fold up trailer arms & tie it down. Pete
There is a stunning one on the lake I'm at. I first came across it 10 miles offshore. I couldn't believe it, a floating Grand Piano.
It was pretty hard to talk to the Gent, to much water noise, & he wasn't about to let me pull up 12" off his hull!
They seemed fairly fast, we were in about 15mph, I could pull away with the 5.7, but we were two up & he was solo.
I'll try to get some photos to add to any album, this boat was such a work of art it NEEDS to be seen.
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap --
CRAM hosted the Shark nationals in 2013. About 8 or 9 of them made the pilgrimage to Caseville, MI (most of them were from Canandaigua New York area). Beautiful boats. Faster than you'd think. I can probably put you in contact with some of the current owners.
-- Jeff R
'88 H18 "Jolly Mon"
'10 C2 USA1193
NE IN / SE MI cramsailing.com --
Thanks CRAM. That would be appreciated. I think I am going to end up installing some deck plates for access. Not having much success convincing my 5 year old how much fun it would be to climb into the hull with a flashlight and wrench. Already started working on it.
just came across your post (11/7). Owned five of them, who knows you may be restoring one that I owned. It makes a difference if it is a sailcraft or a gibbs. MFG's have all sunk, and you are not likely to own a $30,000 rogers shark. So... put the shark on the trailer, and spread it out. Usually you need to lock the boards, a screwdriver in the slot is fine. Get under the hull, remove the brass straps with the little screws at the front of the center board slot. Spreading or removing the rubber, you will see four little screws. Carefully remove them and the brackets they support and the board will lift right out. DO NOT CUT anything. Gibbs are usually all fiberglass with a wimpy main=beam, and are different. Again spread the boat get under it, remove the straps as before, but now you will see hard plastic "coaster sized wheels", that fit in a recess in the trunk itself and in the board. There is a spring between them so a putty knife gently prying out the plastic coaster works well, again the board lifts out. I cant speak to the new Rogers boats, cant afford one. But if you spend more that four minutes on the project you did it wrong. Rebuilding a board, requires woodworking and boating knowhow and skill and you need more consultation.
As to taking the hull decks off Sailcraft are glued and NAILED, plastic gibbs are pop riveted. Many owners have done both, dont break anything, reglue with 3m 5200 . If you take the hull decking off, please be very careful to secure the frames, without their support you have something that flops like a dead fish and you will never get it fixed.
Replacing the floor decking is simple if you get the darn thing off in one piece as there isnt a straight line in whole thing. Get five ply mahogany and reinstall with 3m 5200 and short fat #10 brass screws. Weekend at best. Bust the pieces and loose the pattern you may never get it right again, Lots of curves.
Cutting an circular access panel just in front of the bridge deck is a good accepted practice. and used to put bracing inside the bow, to stop the boat from panting in a seaway.
Our kids grew up in a shark hull, what is wrong with that?
Just another note on the folding thing. Actually it is an outstanding way to move the boat. Requires a heavy longer trailor with folding arms, but the trailer guys can fix that for $$$$. There is a heavy bolt in the bottom of the main beam with a sleeve, and a match in the bottom of the rear beam. Three hinges for looks or to keep the floor boards in line, ( sailed without them for years) and there you have it. lower the folding arms, and skipper and crew just open her up.. plunk plunk down, dont forget to lock the boards before the move. Trailers great, we think the opening between the forms an air flow that makes trailering steady as a rock.
Once down a lock bolt is put in the top of the rear beam, and thats it. The rest is sail and water pressure. When compared to the tornado tilt trailer or the upside down tornado trailer it makes a lot of sense.
There is another way to fold a shark, but its a little out there, but it works.
I never understood why we did not build more 25 c class boats, as they would only be a little more difficult to open 25x14 vs 20x10 but it would be very hard to catch. Great great powerful boat, wonderful cruiser as well. (the c class may have been slower)
I need to further explain why a big shark, would be slower than a normal one. Its all about the weight. Sharks are heavy, I have seen 300 lbs listed.. (falling down laughing, try double)
To expand the boat by 1.25 would add at least a hundred pounds.. The trouble is the current sail area is 275 sq feet and the max allowed for a c cat is 300 so you are going the wrong way adding more weight than sail area.. Also I really dont like the look of the high performance sail plan on the old girl.. She is curvy so there..
What would be cool though is to mess around with a hydrofoil arm on the centerboard/daggerboard, At speed the boat is hydroplaning any way.. Kant the board and curve it.. could be cool.
I also am resurrecting a Shark. I owned it first in the early 80's, it came back to me as a pair if fibreglass hulls and luckily a full rig, a couple of years ago. The guilt of neglect got to me earlier in the summer so now I have an ongoing problem in the workshop.
I've remade all of the deck structure and added some sealed bulkheads to break up the buoyancy and add strength to the c/board case - quite a lot of cracking in the gel coat.
My problem is that I want to put reinforcing pads to take deck fittings under the ply deck skin and I can't find a picture of the deck plan anywhere just lots of spray and people trying not to capsize.
So a bit stuck - If anyone can give me any dimensions it will be very helpful. It would also give me a clue as to where the sheet block for the foresail goes and so also be able to chose which sail I should use from the faded and very full old bag.
I have pictures of the stainless bracket thing that I made for the C/board to swing on, if wvsailingnut would like, I can't work out how to upload images here yet though. When I do I will.
I can't find another Shark in England (yes other side of the pond) so I some one can help.
Click on "Site FAQ", at the very top of the page, Damon has a tutorial on how to do it.
There is a pristine example of a Shark on the lake I sail on. Unfortunately, I have only seen the Cat out on the lake. Not sure where the owner lives, I'm going to try to track him down next spring.
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap --
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap --
Hello-
Sorry for the late reply- just put away the ice boats and started playing with Sharks.
I am part of the Canadaigua Shark fleet-
We moved our website to Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/460564555388/
I am in the middle of re-decking shark 174, and am happy to help with any questions.
FYI- that is me and my wife in the Shark picture up above.
Wvsailingnut here, update: So sad to say as is typical the Shark has been sitting in my garage for the past 4 years, little to no progress UNTIL now! I had gotten frustrated by the dagger board situation and could not bring myself to start cutting her, so it sat. I then happened upon a Hobie 16 and have been sailing that since my original posting. Well a couple of weeks ago I stumbled across this old posting I did and read the responses. I saw the above post on how to remove the board. The boat I have is a Gibbs, it took me about 15 minutes. So I am now all in, and I will be starting the restoration in earnest and will start posing some updates on here. I will keep you posted.
New pictures posted in the Albums section, check it out, progress is being made. I am desperately trying to be able to have the boat on the water this season...there will be many late nights in the garage I think.
So now as the project moves forward I was inventorying all the equipment and I have discovered that the tracker car is missing, so not sure if anyone out there can direct me where to purchase a replacement, or if a Hobie 16 tracker car would work? Any suggestions? This appears to be the only part that is missing out of everything, so I am feeling pretty good about that...
That's pretty cool and almost complete. Seller is pretty "optimistic" on the price since it's definitely a "labor of love" type restore but nice. Like ziper1221 said, a good woodworker could make the pieces if you could find the right wood.
The boards are not hard to make nor is the wood hard to find. I made rudders for my H17 out of sapele 3 years ago. Can be done with basic hand tools and a grinder. Profile gauge helps. I spent $20 each for my blanks.
Dad had Cougar cat when I was young and we had a blast on that very wet ride. Our last project together is still sitting behind the house- 18HT hulls, crossarms, tramp, and broken F17 mast + sails. We finished sleeviing the carbon mast before he passed. It did spend some time with a G-cat 5.7 rig on it. I will either finish it as a cat or build a strike 20 trimaran center hull and use it as the amas and rig. I am tempted by the Shark but adding another project will have to wait.
I’m probably like many out there that had a dream of rebuilding a Shark. Back in 2004, I picked up hull #234 from an elderly owner who let it rot away. The boat was fiberglass and well beyond rebuildable. At the time I purchased a set of plans from John Rogers and aspired to build one out of cedar but never got further than starting the male mold. The cost of quality lumber was prohibitive as a college student. The sails, spars and hardware have long been sold but I still have the plans. If there’s a Shark owner out there that is interested, I’d be happy to gift the plans if you cover shipping and send a small donation to the forum. PM me if you are interested and I can send you pics of what I’ve got.