My husband and I sailed some dinghies when we were teens, toppers, wayfarers that sort of thing. Not a huge amount but enough to not be complete idiots. We sailed a few times when our kids were young but they were hard work so gave up. Now our kids are teens and we are trying again. We decided on a five year plan to buy a cruiser and learn enough to be comfortable sailing the coast and out to islands for the weekend. So we started renting keel boats and learning our way around them. Just for fun we decided to rent a getaway and found that our reluctant younger son preferred sailing on them to the keel boats so as he was the least enthusiastic (not reluctant, more neutral) sailor we allowed him to choose and he always chooses to go on the Hobies (Getaways and 16s) over the bigger boats. As there is normally three of us sailing (and we aren't terribly light) we were thinking perhaps an 18?? I've not seen a Getaway for sale used anywhere near us and we didn't really want to spend more than $1500.

There is someone selling a 79 which is older than we had planned and close to the top of our budget but he says it has been kept indoors and is in fabulous condition with extras and is race ready, not just sailing ready (we don't plan to race anytime soon).

Is this a good boat for two adults and a teen who are beginners to cat sailing? When our older son is around we will probably just rent him a 16 because he and his brother are happier to take off on one together. Could this take four when we want it to?

Is there a checklist somewhere that we should have because we don't really know what we need to look for and the seller is too far away to ask a friend to come with us?

Any advice? Ideas?

Thank you!

First question, where r u located?

R

West coast :)

Here is a quick guide:-

http://www.sailingproshop.com/catamaran_guide.aspx

great, that has a lot of info!

This is a question we get often, use the "search" option, try words like "newbie", "starter beachcat", "first beachcat", etc and do some research

Any catamaran is going to be a bit faster than a monohull, keep in mind that there are 2 basic materials for construction (actually 3 but carbon fiber is for the super wealthy), fiberglass and rotomolded plastic, weight plays a factor in your personal choice, fiberglass is lighter giving the boat more speed, rotomolded plastic is heavier but is almost indestructible.

Keep us posted
R

Thanks again. I had done some research, that is why we were thinking of the 18 and how I found this forum :)

I had already found the following
http://www.ebay.com/gds/buying-a-used-hobie-cat-sailboat-what-to-look-for-/10000000037930018/g.html

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=27409

http://www.hcana.hobieclass.com/default.asp?Page=9363&MenuID=CLASSES___%7C/c20071/9268/

but I was looking for some more specific advice and whether we were on the right track and whether an old boat was going to work for us or be a potential pain in the neck.

I'm not too bothered about the speed, my older son would disagree but he won't be sailing this most of the time because he is away at college. Honestly the getaway has been good for us but I don't want to spend that much and they are all a long way away.

oscarlet

but I was looking for some more specific advice and whether we were on the right track and whether an old boat was going to work for us or be a potential pain in the neck.

You are definitely on a right track. Just take your time, do your research and stay away from soft spots.

You can also post some picture of your boat. Folks on this forum like pictures and are eager to give you advice. You will have to post them on other site such as photobucket first and then copy a link to here.

At 1979. it is old lady, so expect a major wear and tear, and watch for issues. You can ask your buyer to take you sailing, if it is warm enough where you are. This way you will know, all the parts are there and functional. Otherwise got him/her to fully rig the boat on the trailer. Spare parts are very expensive, so watch out.

Good luck.

--
Jack B
Hobie 17
BC, Canada
--

Any boat under $2K is going to be an older boat. Condition is everything, a boat with sound hulls, functioning hardware, sails and tramp with life left in them, will serve you well. You'd benefit highly by finding a catsailor nearby who'd be willing to look at any potential purchase with you, to look for possible issues, and notice any missing parts. Taking a sail, or at least fully rigging the boat with the seller is extremely helpful as well to insure a good purchase.

An H18 is a good boat for your expressed needs. It will handle your weight, it's a durable boat with lots of used parts available. And with care, you can probably get your money out of it when you move onto something else. Spend some time browsing the classifieds here, and you'll begin to get a feel for what is a good deal, what weak points various boats may have. And feel free to continue to ask questions here as they arise. This is a wonderful community you're considering joining.

Dave

I wasn't going to post this because I was worried someone might beat us to it. But it is a two hour drive from us (hence why it is too far to ask an acquaintance to come with us) and it is unlikely we will be able to sail it. We can ask to see it rigged and spend some time checking it over. I've spent time looking around the country at different boats and this does seem like a good deal despite its age if its condition is as the seller says.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/boa/4852992814.html

I'll be down that way on Saturday if you'd like assistance checking the boat out. Has to be no later than 10:30.
It looks like a winner.
It would be great to drive it 15 min South to San Pedro and launch it from Cabrillo Beach ramp.

Lance

thats very kind of you to offer but the seller is not available this weekend.

Looks like an average to slightly above average condition 35 year old H18. The biggest thing to check by far is the condition of the hulls. Go over every inch of the hulls checking for soft spots or crunching sounds. If you find soft spots, walk away (yes they can sometimes be fixed, but sounds like you're looking for something ready to be sailed not a project boat). Also check under the hull lip where the crossbars connect to see of there is any cracking. This is a known failure area on older H18s.

Otherwise, look over every part to check condition. Holes in sails are bad. Excessive wear or repairs on sails or the trampoline are bad. Excessive corrosion on aluminum parts is bad. Check to see if the mast step is firmly riveted to the front crossbar. If it is lifting off the crossbar or is excessively loose it will require repair. Check the front crossbar around the mast step for cracks (a common failure area). Ask the seller how old the standing rigging is. If its more than 5 to 10 years or if he doesn't know, plan on replacing all wires and shroud anchor pins which will cost you several hundred dollars. Make sure all the major parts are there. Its a good idea to study the assembly manual or illustrated parts list in the hobie catalog or bring with you. Inspect the trailer very well- it has to at least be able to make the trip back to your house.

Hobie 18s are great boats. I've sailed them since 1985 and currently own 2. Just be careful looking at really old boats. If the boat was well cared for, it may be ok, but if its been neglected you may be better off in the long run finding something newer.

sm

if you could increase your budget a bit you would be in a better position to find a newer (90's era if lucky) boat -

h18's are great but older design and heavy -
if you could find a mystere 5.5 (or nacra 5.5) in the $2000-2500 range you would be in a newer era boat

I purchased my 85 h16 for $1200
my 82 h18 for $400 (guy just purchased a mystere 6.o and wanted it out of his yard , fast)

both had solid hulls but very old/used (but fine) sails and both needed a lot of work in the end (broken rudders, rudder castings, rear beam on the h18, etc....


i wish i would have purchased a mystere 5.0 or 5.5 instead of both those boats (i know have 2 5.5's and buying a 6.0)

I suggest a mystere 5.5
You can take off the jib (and even buy a storm sail to reduce sail area/power) for the kids till they could outsail the adults (wont take long)

Quote

but if its been neglected you may be better off in the long run finding something newer.

Even if it's not neglected, plastic, gelcoat and others deteriorate with age and UV exposure. Metal fatigue in the beams or mast (or gelcoat) can be hidden from inspection without removal (and even then....)

Thanks again for the help. I've been looking in California for the last few months and haven't seen anything much other than $12K Nacras and $3-1000 hobie 16s and 14s in various states of repair. We don't want to stretch our budget as we have a kid in college.

I think if that light blue H18 is in good shape, I would ask if he would take $1200.00. Even as new as I am at this I would purchase it if I had not just bought one at a great price of $500.00. It had small area with soft spot but that is easy to fix even if you never have. A lot of these guys are pros and racers for sure and know their stuff but if you are just looking for casual sailing It might be wise to look around a little bit more. For instance, I purchased a H16 and will be putting for sale in March. There are new listings coming up on the Net now so I am sure more will be up for sale after tax time and just before summer! Good Luck!

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There are new listings coming up on the Net now so I am sure more will be up for sale after tax time and just before summer! Good Luck!

Winter is the time to buy

value and pricing increase as sailing season starts

I would avoid any cat with any soft spots... unless you are a excelent epoxy and gelcoat (and sanding) wiz, and enjpy doing it... it ain't fun, neat nor cheap (not to bad but still,... aint the kinda think i enjoy spending my valuable free time on

I'm not but my older son is, he enjoys building his own longboards from scratch. He wanted us to buy two wrecked 16s but as he is away and a slow worker we didn't want two project boats sitting around forever. He has not done gelcoat work though.

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We don't want to stretch our budget as we have a kid in college.

i see MANY on this site....



http://www.thebeachcats.com/classifieds/g1-catamarans-for-sale-page2.html

1982 AMF Trac 18
posted by holmeswake

Selling my 1982/83 AMF Trac 18 Catamaran Sail Boat . Needs some fiberglass repair on the Port side hull Deck. It has a soft spot that could get worse but the boat can be used ... $1,000.00


Prindle 18-2 with trailer,no jib $1,000 Reno NV
posted by MARCOE

Rudders,boards, beams look good, mainsail fair to poor,tramp poor, trailer good, no jib,hulls fair condtion, bottom has wear and two holes one easy to fix as it is next to the ... $1,000.00 Enter Your Zip Code
Submit 4/15/13 6:30pm
P1010481.JPG


1979 Hobie 18
posted by rssailor

Good older Hobie 18. The hulls are solid, but the port hull needs some cosmetic work. I did a deck repair on the port hull behind the daggerboard, and it is strong, but does ... $1,100.00 4/1/14 10:48pm

1982 Hobie 18 wings
posted by MARCOE

decks have no soft spots,wings in good condition,main sail fair (original) jib missing. trailer fair.tramps looks okay $1100 firm 775 827 2786 $1,100.00 7/15/13 1:44pm

Prindle 18-2
posted by MARCOE

missing jib,has nice trailer,mast,boards,rudder look okay,hull has crack next to rail (easy repair). bought at estate sale,no titles (bill of sale. $1,100.00 7/15/13 1:57pm
Blue_Streak.jpg
1980 Hobie 18
posted by Corkmaster_1

1980 Hobie 18 with Blue Streak sales, Blue Vinyl tramp, Double trap setup. I sailed this boat on Saturday with no issues. California registration is current. Boat only $1000 ... $1,200.00 9/21/14 8:26pm
DSCI0882.JPG
1977 NACRA 5.2
posted by jerzywirth


1987 Hobie 18 with trailer for sale. Comes with a few extra parts. Boat has updated casting system. New kevlar jib used very lightly. Hulls are solid except for one small soft ... $1,500.00 9/4/14 3:40pm

Thank you for looking those up for me and taking the time to copy them. I had seen some of those and had discounted them because they were from early '14 or 13. I probably should have checked. I also want this one to be good because we can get there and back in a day. Reno is 1200 miles round trip which means we would have to spend about $200 on boarding our animals plus gas and hotel. It is doable but more work and extra expense. I will keep looking



Edited by oscarlet on Jan 22, 2015 - 03:23 PM.

A good tool to help you search is www.searchtempest.com. It searches all of that city-based listing service (you can specify distance), the web-based sales site, etc.. It will at least give you a few boats to further research.

--
Tim
81 Hobie 16
87 Nacra 5.7
Austin, TX
--

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I also want this one to be good because we can get there and back in a day. Reno is 1200 miles round trip which means we would have to spend about $200 on boarding our animals plus gas and hotel. It is doable but more work and extra expense. I will keep looking

You will have to probably look at lots of boats before you find one in great conditions and under priced - please think about your boarding costs, and fuel costs and add that to your budget. It may get you to a newer/better local boat. -

I would recommend you ask any prospective seller to send you dozens of high res images
and videos

I would ask if there are any known issues, softspots, or problems
I would ask what upgrades have been done and what upgrades would you (The seller) do next and why
I would ask if they are willing to sign a bill of sale (don't buy a boat without one)
I would ask if they are willing to sign an agreement that states the boat is in "good" and working order with no issues -
I would ask if they are willing to put it in a local hobie dealer and get him to review the boat prior to sale

I would require the seller to rig the boat infront of me (you) - to make sure all parts are there, and working
I would suggest you take notes, pics and even video during the rigging ... .you will forget much of it when you are on a beach in a few months and your notes/vids will be very valuable

MN3, thanks :) I do have a local acquaintance that has owned Hobies for years if I get really stuck I will get in touch with him but the notes/video/pics will be a big help. Yes bill of sale and registration up to date is already on our list. A lot of boats don't have the papers and aren't registered which could potentially add up to a lot extra. Good ideas on the rest, I will add them to our list.

Quote

A good tool to help you search is www.searchtempest.com.

Man, that makes it a LOT easier!

check your local laws, they vary state to state

in my state they used to not require any registration - so no one ever had Titles

Now they changed the rule (with exceptions) and anyone who needs a title (or wants to regester a catamaran over 16') has a huge hurdle in their sale or purchase

The hobie 18 is a great boat and will take 3 adults no problem, most of what's been said here is right.
watch for soft spots, they are a pain to repair, Not sure where you are in cal, but there are lots of hobie fleets out there, do some research, reach out to the fleets, someone might be sitting on a boat that they are thinking of selling and will work with you, or they know someone etc, etc, also if they are a active fleet person, they will be there to help.
Deals are there to be found. we had one of our junior sailors score a 88 hobie 16 that had been garaged for $850 boat only needs new sails to be competitive. So be patient, ask around, all the cat sailors I have ever met are very helpful and I have been sailing cats since 1975.

oscarlet,
Not sure where on the west coast you are... but we have a growing group of 18 sailors out of the San Luis Obispo area. Probably also a reason CA is a bit harder to find hobie 18s in. I've got one project boat that will be coming together in the next month or two and boats are coming through our fleet regularly to get some love, out of back yards and back onto the water.

Tom

Tom, we are based in San Diego :)

There is another boat we are planning to look at tomorrow. Close to twice the price so it would have to be worth it but a lot newer.
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/boa/4866436327.html

My husband is worried that he doesn't have enough experience to sail it but the owner is quite happy to take him out a number of times because he is also down in San Diego.

Thoughts?

Looks clean and newer. Buy $2500
More money, but well worth it.
You can always find what you want at the right price if you're willing to wait and search for three months. I drove up to Lake Tahoe from Los Angeles to get mine.



Edited by spfx on Jan 30, 2015 - 08:36 PM.

Thanks for all the help. We went and saw both boats. We felt very green when looking at them and felt like despite our lists we really didn't know enough.... e.g. how soft is too soft on a sail.

We saw the nacra first and it really looked like it had been sailed hard and put away wet (the sails for instance were very wet) and the boat as a whole was very dirty. There was corrosion almost everywhere. Again we have little idea of how much is too much but it seemed like every piece on the boat was worn. The foot straps had detached themselves at the front of the trampoline and were tied on, the trailer looked very rusty, one hull had quite a bit of wear on the bottom and cracks running up the bows big enough that my fingernail could go between them. The mast had a dent, didn't look particularly significant (nearish the top and didn't bend the mast), the edges of the transoms were a little ragged like they had scraped along a fence and broken a little (cosmetic only). The rudders had been worn flat at the bottom on both sides, didn't look like a lot was missing. The sail was very soft (I think, having nothing to compare it to) along one edge and had some duct tape on some of the batten pockets. We felt that it was sailable and could be a project boat but that we really didn't want to spend the next few years repairing one thing after another.

So we reluctantly went to look at the 79 Hobie 18. Well there were a few bits and pieces, some wear on the keels but not all the way through, dagger boards could do with a little filling here and there. Mostly though my husband couldn't stop smiling and it was in very good condition with nothing we could find missing. The owner spent a lot of time with us explaining and helping us rig it. As we are buying the boat because I enjoy watching my usually tired and stressed husband smile so much when sailing I figured that this, the one he wanted, was the one. It may not be the one forever, but we reckon we would spend at least that much over the year renting a boat so even if we keep it for a while and then sell it at a loss we will come out ahead.

Thank you so much for your help. I hope I can impose on you all again when we need help with it.



Edited by oscarlet on Jan 31, 2015 - 10:59 PM.

Congratulations on the Hobie Purchase. There are at least a couple of active 18 groups down there, and A LOT of parts available, used and new for that boat. It sounded like that Nacra may have been a bit much even if it was in good condition(sounds like a bit of a stretch). We have fun sailing that boat in 5knts or 15-20 althought we prefer the latter up here. '79 is not a necessarily and old boat if it was cared for, there are extensive online resources with regards to soft spots and weak points to look for, and what to do to keep it up. Murray's is a a great resource, and potentially your local Hobie dealer, who should have access to most parts for it as needed.

Most importantly... HAVE FUN!

Congrats on joining the beachcats fun! I'm partial to the H18 so get it out and report how big a grin you end up with.

--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

How To Create Your Signature

How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
--

Thanks :)

Just to be clear, again, I don't know what I'm looking at when I look at a boat, someone else could look at that nacra and say "buy it, definitely worth the price that corrosion/the sails/the hulls are fine" just wanted to give some detail because everyone has been so helpful

the nacra sounds pretty bad (fingernail deep cracks, duct taped sail repais....) - sounds like a lot of work would be needed to make this an enjoyable boat and explain the low price. probably usable for someone who likes to do hull repair and boat upgrades but not for most recreational sailors who want to put it on a hitch and go sailing.

the h18 - there should be some wear on a boat that has been used - all sounds appropriate to me ...
enjoy and keep us posted (pics of your new cat would be nice too :) )

Congrats. Sounds like you did the right thing to me.

I recommend you get it in the water as soon as possible - that way if there are any leaks or surprises (things that are broken) you could have some recourse with the seller. If you wait 3 or 4 months ... you have less of a change of a refund of any amount

oscarlet

Thanks :)Just to be clear, again, I don't know what I'm looking at when I look at a boat, someone else could look at that nacra and say "buy it, definitely worth the price that corrosion/the sails/the hulls are fine" just wanted to give some detail because everyone has been so helpful

thanks, I don't think that is going to be a problem My husband is likely to be (sea)sick this week I think. I think he would have taken it out in the dark that night if it was at all realistic!

There is someone selling a set of hulls the same age and colour. We have plans to go look at them, it would mean we could work on the current hulls without taking the boat out of action. We aren't very quick at doing projects!

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My husband is likely to be (sea)sick this week I think. I think he would have taken it out in the dark that night if it was at all realistic!

- haha!

Quote

There is someone selling a set of hulls the same age and colour. We have plans to go look at them, it would mean we could work on the current hulls without taking the boat out of action. We aren't very quick at doing projects!

it would be great to have a spare set for many reasons. I have a spare 5.5 in my back yard, but just purchased a 6.0 this past week.. yards getting full w boats

When looking at older 18 hulls, one of the most critical areas to inspect is the hull lip under the crossbar attachment points. This area had a tendency to crack out if not properly reinforced. There is an upgraded crossbar anchor kit available which will strengthen this area and is fairly easy to install. Soft spots in and around the front crossbar area also need to be addressed. Either of these types of damage can result in catastrophic hull failure so be sure to look over any older hulls really well before purchasing.

Also give the front crossbar a real good inspection. The extrusion in the area of the mast step has a tendency to crack over time. The mast step rivets also have a tendency to loosen over time and this can also weaken the crossbar if the rivets aren't replaced. If I bought a used 18, the first thing I would do after inspecting the hulls would be to pull off the front crossbar and give it a real thorough inspection.

In my experience, these are the two main structural areas to focus on when inspecting/refurbishing a H18. The only other thing would be standing rigging. If the previous owner can't tell you the last time the wires and shroud anchor pins were replaced, you'd probably be wise to bite the bullet and replace it all. Cheap insurance.

Good luck with the new boat and enjoy. 18s are a blast.

sm

Quote

shroud anchor pins

+1
right after i demasted my h18 - the local sailing shop owner told me "you should change out these pins every few years"

We took her out yesterday for the first time. We took her down late morning and there was more wind than I was happy taking an unfamiliar boat out in so we left her in the car park and took a rental boat out. There was a club race going on which monopolised the bulk of the sailing part of the bay during the best wind of the day. We tried on the most part to stay out of their way but there was occasion where we crossed paths and honestly there were a couple of people acting like jerks so we only stayed out an hour and came in. The rental place said that they had got a bunch of people complaining about the racing and not sharing the water (this club races often) so we went for a long lunch and stayed out later than we should.

Rigging from scratch was a pain in the neck, we didn't know a bunch of stuff and the afternoon was getting late by then. The previous owners had some things not set up right and we got frustrated trying to figure it out. I think we did a couple of things wrong. I am taking a class right now on 16s and they seem to be rigged differently in a bunch of places. Oh btw, I now hate the rings on the clevis pins, my hands hurt today from trying to get those stupid things in. Where is it safe to replace them with something else? Eventually we got her out. It was late and the sun was low and the wind had dropped but she still was a lot of fun and sailed beautifully. My husband was so happy!



I had trouble with the cleat for the jib though, on the getaway you snatch the rope up to release them but this was set so you pull them down and if I was sat across from the cleat I couldn't get it to release...?? It was a pain, I'd have to lean over to get them loose. Am I doing something wrong? It was difficult to adjust the trim.



Edited by oscarlet on Feb 09, 2015 - 12:47 PM.

Oh and we have the gooseneck boom pin without the locking pin that holds it in place. We got the whole boat rigged except the boom, sails up, got it off the trailer (first time launching a boat!) and we couldn't figure out how to attach the boat. We were pretty cross that we (thought!) bought a boat with a crucial piece missing and had wasted all that time and wouldn't get to go out. Then my husband saw a silvery glint on the ground. Someone had left it loose and unsecured in the boom and it had fallen out. Thank goodness!

Thanks for the advice, I'm about to order the anchor pins.



Edited by oscarlet on Feb 09, 2015 - 12:48 PM.

Quote

Rigging from scratch was a pain in the neck

huge learning curve here.. it gets easier every time and when you start to meet other h18 sailors you will learn tricks to cut the time in 1/2

i just purchased and rigged a new (to me) boat this weekend and it took me 2 hours to rig it (and it's basically the same boat i have, just a little longer). never got to sail it friday as planned due to the time it took to rig.

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I now hate the rings on the clevis pins, my hands hurt today from trying to get those stupid things in. Where is it safe to replace them with something else?

there is technique to mastering them but they are tricky and require (for me) strong fingernails

there are quick pins but they are VERY expensive and almost all fail over time (esp in salt water)
I have learned to never use them on a stay/boom or tiller extension

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I had trouble with the cleat for the jib though

jib block can be hard for the crew to uncleat mostly due to the fact you are sitting forward. it does often require the crew to lean in and try and pull the line aft (and down)

see if there is any room to adjust the blocks better for crew (if there is any adjustment room left it was probably set for solo sailing)

also uncleatting can often be done by flicking the line (throwing a curve/wave down the line that uncleats it) - again harder for the crew to do but do-able (usually)

gets easier with practice



Edited by MN3 on Feb 09, 2015 - 01:22 PM.

I have no fingernails, mine are very weak. The boat came with a screw box filled all sorts of gubbins and thingamajigs. There were some quick pins in there. I think I might order new rings. The ones I see on the website have a curl at the end of them which I think might be easier to get it started?? We are hoping to move the boat to a mast up storage so I wouldn't have to do it as often and we can get out quicker.

Quote

uncleatting can usually be done by flicking the line (throwing a curve down the line that uncleats it)

I flicked the line which usually didn't work but basically my best bet was to reach over which isn't going to work in all weathers! I'm not sure, but I think it made things worse when I moved the blocks forward because there was less slack in the tramp up there for a snap of the line to work. However, my pants kept getting caught on the adjustment when it was more aft.

Go to hobie parts catalog and look at the convenience packages. Will give you a good idea.
The rings for pins with the curled in end are must. also for the rudder pins. stainless steel hair clips,
they should have them at your local ace hardware, Quickpins are nice, you can find them on line fairly cheap.
Suggest you spend a few $'s about 20 to 25, get a good stainless steel multi tool, the pliers are handy when rigging.
Your jib blocks should have a rotation adjustment for the cleat, usually loosening two screws, try it in various positions until you find one that you like,
Go to a local hobie regatta, get their early and see how all those people have their boats set up to trailer, They can do it fast, so they have come up with all the short cuts, who knows if you are lucky you might get a chance to crew for someone, and learn a whole bunch.
The rude racers, don't let a few bad apples spoil your day. Unfortunately there are a few of those in every group, I feel sorry for them that they cant have a good time sailing without being mad!.

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I flicked the line which usually didn't work but basically my best bet was to reach over which isn't going to work in all weathers!

in heavy air you will need to move back (improving your cleatting angle) and you can trap out and also improve the angle and you can get the line lower on the tramp.. also helping it release

in real heavy air, you can furl the jib to depower the boat and it's not an issue at all

again this is just a matter of technique. all h18 sailors (esp crew) experience this and figure out a way that works for them over time on the water (you can actually practice this on the beach before pushing off

+1

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The rings for pins with the curled in end are must.

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also for the rudder pins. stainless steel hair clips,

- no disrespect but i would never do this - hairclips are not made with the quality standards that hobie gear has (and other quality brands) . marine grade parts and equipment are needed on marine vessels

My first recommendation, if you have not done so already, is to go to the Hobie Cat website and download a pdf version of the H18 assembly manual. Print it out and take it with you next time you rig the boat. The Hobie site also has a forum dedicated to the H18 where just about every concieveable question you could have can be or already has been answered.

Regarding the jib cleats, my first question would be what type of jib blocks do you have? The older 18s came stock with Seaway brand jib blocks. These blocks had chrome plated steel cleats which were very difficult to operate. The Harken cleats are much easier to operate. If you have seaway blocks, you can buy an adapter plate which will allow you to install the Harken cleat onto the seaway block. Or better yet, replace the whole block with a Harken block - they are much better if you can afford them.

Otherwise, snapping the sheet out of the jib cleat on the 18 can be challenging even for vetran crews. It mostly comes down to technique. You need to have just enough slack in the sheet when you snap it out of the cleat and that takes practice. You can get a little extra practice uncleating with the boat on the beach if you want.

The other option is to switch to Oxen blocks which don't have a traditional cam cleat and they allow you to easily cleat and uncleat the jib from anywhere on the boat. They are pricy though and take more maintenance then more traditional blocks.

Regarding clevis pins and quick pins, it is generally considered to be a no-no to use quick pins in standing rigging. I think the main problem with using them there is that they are much longer and bulkier then a standard clevis pin, so things are more likely to snag on them and they don't allow you to install vinyl covers over your shroud adjusters. Many people use quick pins for things like the tiller extension, gooseneck, clew connection, main blocks. If you sail from a sandy beach, you have to be careful because they will get jammed if they get sand in them.

sm



Edited by Dogboy on Feb 10, 2015 - 03:43 AM.

great thanks. I'm not sure who makes the blocks but they are indeed metal. Feel vindicated about being shouted at by husband for not being quick enough!

BTW Dogboy, did you see smiling picture of aforementioned husbad?



Edited by oscarlet on Feb 09, 2015 - 10:00 PM.

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Regarding the jib cleats, my first question would be what type of jib blocks do you have? The older 18s came stock with Seaway brand jib blocks. These blocks had chrome plated steel cleats which were very difficult to operate. The Harken cleats are much easier to operate. If you have seaway blocks, you can buy an adapter plate which will allow you to install the Harken cleat onto the seaway block. Or better yet, replace the whole block with a Harken block - they are much better if you can afford them.

Otherwise, snapping the sheet out of the jib cleat on the 18 can be challenging even for vetran crews. It mostly comes down to technique. You need to have just enough slack in the sheet when you snap it out of the cleat and that takes practice. You can get a little extra practice uncleating with the boat on the beach if you want.

It all gets better with time...

One other solutions for replacing the pins that I have seen is the use of bow shackles. I know at least one veteran H18 sailor that has been using quick release pins for decades without issue. I, myself am wary about them.

If you have shiny metal cleats... they're probably seaway, they should say seaway stamped into the stainless steel along the side in a subtle font.

The Harken blocks have an anodized cleat with some plastic parts, more of a gunmetal color with red or ... faded pink trim.

Tom

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One other solutions for replacing the pins that I have seen is the use of bow shackles

on my h18, I got sick of my shorts getting caught on the chainplate ringdings and switched to shackles

it should be noted that shackles can worm their-self open, esp on side stays that have lots of movement in them (leaward stay is always floppin around)

make sure you use a tool and tighten them extra hard - don't ask me how i know ....