I have acquired a 1971 Dingo and have been working hard to fix it up, working with a local sailing shop and local manufacturers, but we cannot figure out how the rigging is supposed to work for the traveler. Does anyone have pictures of the rigging for a Dingo's traveler? I appreciate any help!

Have you seen these?

http://www.sailmfg.com/di…dingo-welcomebooklet.pdf

http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures?g2_itemId=64759

http://www.thebeachcats.c…ums/viewtopic/topic/2001

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G-Cat 5.7
Sarasota
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Hi mrvideo. Yes, I've made good use of all of the documents on the sailmfg website and I have tried to use those pictures to zoom in on the traveler setup. Unfortunately, I can't seem to get the right angle/zoom from the pictures and the sailmfg documents don't mention the rigging for the traveler (although they were extremely useful for getting a trampoline made and helping me understand a lot of other parts of the boat setup).

The way the traveler is currently setup, there is no way to control it. The main sheet tackle simply attaches to it and i cannot control how far it slides. I other words, it will just slide all the way to each side with any pressure. It may be that the previous owner did something funky but being that I am new to sailing and I can't seem to find any information about it, I don't know how to fix it! Thanks!

Try this. The mainsheet may be continuous and run into the traveler car and out the back and secure with a knot in a padeye. My G-Cat does this (docs avail on this site). So with one rope you are controlling the mainsheet and the traveler. Makes life easier than dealing with two ropes. Takes practice not getting your foot all wrapped up in it on a tack however



Posting pictures of what you have here would help a lot.



Edited by mrvideo on Jun 26, 2015 - 04:00 PM.

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G-Cat 5.7
Sarasota
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I doubt many here have ever seen a dingo besides in a picture in the links above.

How about uploading a picture here and let us see what you have.

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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Thanks for the help.

I added some pictures to the Dingo album under Cataraman Identification. http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures?g2_itemId=118938

I tried to get a picture from all angles, but let me know if you need something different.

Thanks!

Wow........ interesting pictures and read. The way it's set up, there's a continuous traveler line and no way to cleat it. It's like you have to hand hold the traveler line to keep it where you want it. That's crazy.

No where in any of the documents on http://www.sailmfg.com/dingo/dingo_main.htm does it say anything about rigging the traveler. I did see where it talked about keeping the traveler centered or out as much as 18 inches from center.

My fix would be 2 open clam cleats http://www.clamcleat.com/…ats/default.asp?menuid=1 one placed maybe 12 inches in from the fair lead that the the traveler line goes thru toward the ends of the beam about where the third grommet inboard is on the tramp. The other on the opposite side of the boat. Only cleat one at a time. The one on the windward side.

The above is just an idea. Hope it helps. Strange boat.



Edited by nacra55 on Jun 27, 2015 - 12:57 AM.

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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Can never rule out that there was some jury-rigging by the previous owner......that snap hook looks pretty rough!

However, the way I read the instructions, it calls for sheeting the main very hard in all conditions except a broad reach in light air. Maybe it was actually intended that you first set the traveller then sheet the main so hard that the main keeps the traveller in place (without any traveller cleating)? Even on my late model Hobie 16, it's pretty difficult to move the traveller when sheeted very hard (and yours looks like it would have a lot more friction).

Cool old boat!



Edited by rattlenhum on Jun 27, 2015 - 02:52 PM.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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The Dingo was a dog. They said "lateral resistance by a high aspect ratio centerboard is required to sail to weather with a minimal leeway angle on any boat regardless of hull form." They said "asymmetrical hulls creating lift is pure fantasy". 40 years & over 150 K Hobies & Prindles convincingly proved them wrong. Surface piercing daggers are just not as effective as thru hull daggers. There were a couple in CRAM in Mich.in the '70's, but they were not fast--about same as a H-14 with a jib. They even recommended a boom vang which can be treacherous at the jibe mark when you forget to take it off. The Shark & Phoenix were mild successes, but MFG boats were not marketed, a factor I see in modern catamarans here today. Pete

nacra55

My fix would be 2 open clam cleats http://www.clamcleat.com/…ats/default.asp?menuid=1 one placed maybe 12 inches in from the fair lead that the the traveler line goes thru toward the ends of the beam about where the third grommet inboard is on the tramp. The other on the opposite side of the boat. Only cleat one at a time. The one on the windward side.

The above is just an idea. Hope it helps. Strange boat.Edited by nacra55 on Jun 27, 2015 - 12:57 AM.

What about this

I used a couple of these on my Nacra 5.5. To the standard system i added one block each side and a continuous line with these cleats.

pbegle

The Dingo was a dog.

Yeah, but it's wild.....and Australian....so that makes it cool!

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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And they will EAT YOUR BABY...so watch out on a crossing.

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Randy Neubauer
Apple Valley, MN
2001 H18M
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