Hit some rocks and split one of my dagger boards (and i hit them not 5 seconds after saying the words, let's pull up the dagger boards i think there may be rocks around this area... ). Split is about 3" long and 1.5" wide, i can see the core inside.

My initial thought was to clear it out so the split piece will lie back down flat and then crack it open, fill it with Epoxy, clamp it down and call it a day.

is there any reason why this wouldn't work? would i want to use glass fiber anywhere to reinforce the area?

I have never done a fiberglass repair before so i'm a complete noob, i searched for dagger board repair questions and most seem to be replacing missing bits, mine is pretty well in tact, just a section is split.

What is the correct stuff to use for a late 80's vintage Nacra dagger board? any tips or tricks to make sure it is plenty strong?

Sorry for the lack of pictures, i meant to take some this weekend and didn't have my phone on me, now i'm at work and don't have the daggerboard handy.

Thanks

--
1987 Nacra 5.8
1978 Isotope (sold)
--

Very simple repair just as you invisioned. Only buy the 404 or other microballoons when you buy the qt of West epoxy and the pumps to get the 5:1 mix. This will thicken the epoxy so it doesn't run out of crack. And of course use clamps. Pete

without a pic, here's the most direct route to get back on the water then do a full repair over the winter. first make sure the split is dry and get some west system epoxy 105 resin and 206(slow)hardener and the pump kit for it. get the quart size resin and the smallest can of hardener, .44 pt. if you want to ad a filler to the mix,(which i advise) get west system 406 colloidal silica filler, 1.7 oz. mix according to the directions on the resin/hardener and mix thoroughly before adding the filler. add the filler and mix to, oh, mayonnaise to peanut butter consistency. spread a layer inside the split using a popsicle stick, tongue depressor or anything flat and long enough to get the mix all the way in the split. then use some masking tape to cover the edge of the split wrapping about 6 inches past both ends of the split to hold the edge together. if you can clamp it, that would help but be careful not to use too much clamp pressure as you don't want to make a "dent" that might stay after the epoxy is cured. no need to worry about paint if you intend to do a more detailed inspection/repair over the winter and as i said, this will at least get you back on the water fairly quickly. this has worked for me in the past and last week i just did a new club member's h-18 boards with a similar problem. he can sail then fix over the winter. good luck and let's see the damage as it may help in the diagnosis for the repair.

--
Mike Conway
H16
Hilton, NY
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Quote

first make sure the split is dry

Pry it open, then leave out in the sun, or over an air conditioning duct for a couple of days. Trapped moisture will make its own problems, especially if you freeze them in winter storage.
You can make a quick, & permanent repair, I would "do it once".
Mask off both sides of the board with plastic & tape, this will save alot of time later. You WILL have epoxy run out, masking means no wasted time trying to sand it all off later.
For gap filling & laminating, I have had very good success with microfibres, here is a guide;
http://www.westsystem.com…/filler-selection-guide/
I would not thicken it to "peanut butter". Jury rig something so the board is held with the split vertical. thicken to a bit less than ketchup, so it will still run a bit over 10 minutes or so. Use slow hardener, pry open the crack, pour in, leave sit for 10-15 minutes to allow epozy to penetrate the damage completely, then use clamps to hold the original shape.
Depending on the size/curvature etc, it may be useful to place something like styrofoam SM against the board, to prevent point loading from clamps.
Let cure, sand, & you have permanent fix, other than maybe some gelcote touch up later. I fixed an 18" split this way, drying it out was the longest part.
Here is a thread with good info, scroll down to see the links to other threads, MN3 fixed a banged board.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…nc=viewtopic&topic=15571



Edited by Edchris177 on Jul 07, 2015 - 07:13 AM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Great info guys, exactly the details i was looking for.

now after many trials and tribulations i give you imagines:






Maybe this will be of some help, the board is inside now (in the AC) and i'm hoping to do the repair this weekend if possible so i think that should give it plenty of time to dry out.

I'm not worried about a pretty repair, but i do want a strong one and i only want to do it once.

Thanks again for the advice!

-Conrad

--
1987 Nacra 5.8
1978 Isotope (sold)
--

That is a real easy fix, & it wont look ugly. Mask off the surrounding area, it will cut clean up & sanding by 90%.
Br gentle with prying it open, you want enough so the epoxy will flow completely down to solid material, but not enough to break off the gelcoat.
If you are really anal, drip some UNTHICKENED,(or very little filler), epoxy into he crack, let it settle for 5-10 minutes while you add some microfibres to the rest of the batch. Pour out what will run out, then replace with a thicker mixture. This will leave no voids, & will be as strong as the original board.
You will only need an ounce or two of resin
The West system with slow hardener will give ample pot life.
Your gelcoat looks pretty intact, the board will look as good as before, you will not need to do any further work, until you hit the next rock!

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Thanks again for all the info.

--
1987 Nacra 5.8
1978 Isotope (sold)
--