I have an opportunity to pick up a Nacra 5.2. I am used to sailing a Hobie 16 and can step the mast, launch off the beach or boat ramp and load it back up all solo. Can the same be said for the Nacra 5.2?

--
Kenneth Purdy
Hobie 16
Nacra 5.2 (2)
Banshee
First Coast, Florida
--

Mast is 1 1/2" taller, has diamond wires that are in way when raising(mast is rotated 90 degrees when raising). If you're under 45 yrs & in good shape, yes, go for it. Pete

All Right, I went for it

--
Kenneth Purdy
Hobie 16
Nacra 5.2 (2)
Banshee
First Coast, Florida
--

pbegle

Mast is 1 1/2" taller, has diamond wires that are in way when raising(mast is rotated 90 degrees when raising). If you're under 45 yrs & in good shape, yes, go for it. Pete

I'm 54 and have no trouble setting up and single-hand sailing my 5.2. I also went from Hobie 16's to the 5.2 Nacra and love the differences. It floats a lot better and I like the daggerboard versatility. Just remember to pull them up before you get to shallow water. The rudder system is a joy to operate also compared to the Hobie 16. Put new bungee's in the rudders and they pop up like mad when you need them too. Deploying the rudders is much easier on the Nacra than the Hobie 16. It's an all around joy to sail. Enjoy!

You won't regret it. It is a lot solo in big wind with the jib, doable but a lot to do. Have fun! Let us know if you have any questions.

--
Cesar (Cez) S.
Hobie 16 (had a few)
Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
--

Ok,

Got the boat out on the water this weekend. Conditions were light (good), my daughter (14) and I were able to launch the boat off the boat ramp into the St John's river with no issues. Sailed great, it was very noticeable different that the Hobie 16 when tacking and all around. Sailed it for around 1 1/2 hours and even took a young man out who was at the club at the wrong time for Junior Sailing.

When we came back in, and tied the boat to a buoy in order to get the beach wheels, you could see a noticeable list. Upon pulling the boat up the ramp, you could see water coming out of the daggerboard well. It was hard to tell but it looked like a cracked seam on the back of the well. If it wasn't a seam, it was just a crack about 3-4 inches long. I will try to get a light on it and some pictures.

Has anyone had experience with this type of repair?

Also, there are two little hooks on the hulls about 2-3 feet forward of the trampoline, what are those for?

--
Kenneth Purdy
Hobie 16
Nacra 5.2 (2)
Banshee
First Coast, Florida
--

klppurdy

Upon pulling the boat up the ramp, you could see water coming out of the daggerboard well. It was hard to tell but it looked like a cracked seam on the back of the well. If it wasn't a seam, it was just a crack about 3-4 inches long. I will try to get a light on it and some pictures.

Has anyone had experience with this type of repair?

I own a few mystere's. so yet i have had and done trunk repair work
can be an easy fix if the damage is in an easy to get place
can be a nightmare if in an un accessible area

I have a boat where a 4x4 panel was cut out of the outside hull, into the outside boardwell to access the damage on the inside board well - pretty crappy area to work in

some repairs can be handled with a little 2 part epoxy and some wax paper (shmeeear it on, smoth out with a layer of waxpaper and your hand, others may require getting epoxy/gel up in the well with a yard stick and mirrors.

best of luck, keep us posted - post some pics

I will work on getting a better photo, this was the best I could do with the tools I had

https://picasaweb.google.…PsP1_Ha4?feat=directlink



Edited by klppurdy on Oct 12, 2015 - 03:12 PM.

--
Kenneth Purdy
Hobie 16
Nacra 5.2 (2)
Banshee
First Coast, Florida
--

I have read about but have no first hand experience in Using a shop vac to put a small amount of vacuum in the hull to suck the epoxy into the crack. Was planning on trying this method on a small leak in the H18 dagger well.

--
Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
--

Hi Ken, I too picked up a N5.2, my very first dagger boat, it does not have any hooks on the hulls forward of the tramp so not too sure what you are referring to, can u post some pics maybe?

I do have a general question, this being the first boat I've owned with dagger-boards, I have read on previous posts that the wells are sometimes lined with some kind of material, can anyone expound on this subject?

I don't mean to high-jack your thread but I'm pretty sure we're both on the same learning curve.

Renovator

Quote

I have read on previous posts that the wells are sometimes lined with some kind of material, can anyone expound on this subject?

all sorts of different solutions for different boats.
i have a little koozy materiel on the fore and aft 1" lip of my centerboard-well to reduce impact from a board slamming - i want to add some glide tape on the 3' port/stbd well lip/wall to aid with pivoting and reduce wear.

My h18 i used carpet/contact cement on the well wall/lip to add a little resistance on my boards and to help prevent the board getting jammed down

really depends on your needs

Its not a matter of needs, its just lack of knowledge, there is no other cat sailor within 100 miles, never mind a club or a fleet. So why does one put any material in the dagger-board wells, the side loaders should exert enough pressure to create resistance, is it just a matter of wear?

Thanks
R

Robert/renovator,
i have used indoor/outdoor carpet pieces in my daggerboard trunks, attaching it with contact cement. at first, i lined the whole perimeter but there was so much friction i couldn't budge them up or down at all. so i've reverted to these little pieces and they work great. the most trouble i've had is the one on the rear of the trunk at the bottom since it gets sand in it when beaching and also when pushing the daggerboard down, it tends to hit this one and knock it loose if not careful.

on the next trunk i line, i'm going to try velcro, the type with adhesive on the backing. i'm going to use the soft half of the velcro (loops) not the hooks. this would eliminate the contact cement which is icky to work with.
j


--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

klppurdy,
i put a crack in the back of my daggerboard trunk by gently bumping a submerged tree at low speed. the sharp edge of the daggerboard cracked the trunk just enough to let water in, but it came in fast and filled the hull so fast i barely got back to shore.

i had this repair done by a boat repair shop. he put in this inspection port, which could have been a 4" instead of an 8", but he was just making it easy on himself! inside the hull, at the back of the trunk, he applied numerous layers of fiberglass to seal the trunk and i haven't had a problem since.

i've tried applying epoxy from the inside of the trunk and it doesn't penetrate very well and tends to drip if it's at all viscous. but i like that idea of using a vacuum to pull it in, as long as it a gentle suction. might be worth a try.
j




Edited by arch on Oct 14, 2015 - 11:19 AM.

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--

I repaired my 5.2 dagger board wells in the spring after hitting a reef with the spinnaker up.
There are many different ways to do this, some more difficult than others, some cosmetically better etc.
What I did was first install two 6" ports behind the daggerboard wells (mine already had ports in front! Loads of ports now, but they aren't too uncomfortable. I then cleaned the affected areas and dried then cleaned it up and sanded it with 60 grit. I cut some heavy biaxial tape to manageable lengths. BX tape wraps around corners well. I then made some thickened epoxy paste (thickened with wood fibres I saved from the router).With this paste (peanut butter consistency) I made some fillets (using a rounded spatula, like a tongue depresser) all round the dagger board well to hull join at the bottom. Then I layed up the tape over this and smoothed it out. I added more layers in the weakest spots and left it all to harden out. The repair has held up to some very hard sailing including a full-on capsize, boat fully loaded with two heavy adults, one in the trapeze and spinnaker up.

Thanks all for the responses, so it seems like an inspection port and tackling it from the inside is recommended for the best results.

And Renovator, no I did not think you were hijacking my thread. Its cool.

When I first looked at this issue, I was thinking of attempting to maneuver a piece of two inch fibreglass tape about 6-7 inches long into the back of the well and securing it with a piece of string to keep it in place. The more I think about this the more I become concerned about dripping resin all over the place and making a mess.

--
Kenneth Purdy
Hobie 16
Nacra 5.2 (2)
Banshee
First Coast, Florida
--

All right then. I have been busy, for the daggerboard trunk, I lodged a piece of two inch fiberglass cloth along the back of the trunk and secured it with a piece of string. With a small paintbrush attached to about a three foot stick, I was able to secure a cup of activated resin underneath the trunk and with the lengthened paint brush, dip it into the resin and draw it up the fiberglass cloth. Usually my fiberglass repair is functional, and not so cosmetically appealing, but in this case it actually looked quite good too. Of course, nobody ever looks in your daggerboard trunks.

So far so good, have had it out twice and that hull takes on maybe a couple of cups over a 2-3 hour sail. The other hull leaks far more, there is no evident leaks, so I will undertake the pressurization test on that side.

I am beginning to like the bar down the center of the trampoline, it actually makes quite a nice footrest with my butt planted on the hull.

Ok, so a couple more questions.

1. The wires that run parallel to the hulls on top of the trampoline come up quite high when the jib is locked down, these need to be replaced, has anyone experimented with a dyneema type line for this application and if so, how would you secure to the eyelets on the front and rear beams.

2. The shrouds need to be replaced. I looked on Murray’s and they show a set with a Marine Eye on one side and a thimble on the other. I assume the Marine Eye side pins directly to the shroud connector attached to the side of the hole with no shroud adjuster, however, are they measured accurately enough that you don’t need to adjust? Currently the boat has Hobie Style shroud adjusters and the shrouds have thimbles on both ends. I think I need to measure what I have and have someone make me exactly the same length? I am not ready to contemplate dyneema or other solutions for the shrouds.

3. The trampoline is a two piece without the sleeve that goes over the bar. When I got the boat, the lacing for the tramp was wrapped around the bar in a non uniform fashion and the grommets did not sit right. I took it all off and laced each trampoline side to each other. The trampoline sits nice that way but a little low so I am thinking of just tying maybe three short square knotted lines to the lacing to keep it up. Any input appreciated.

4. I have two sets of Skip Elliott sails, one has fiberfoam battens and one has regular fiberglass battens. Does anyone have a preference.

I know if there is no picture, it didn’t happen so here is the boat the last time I took it out.

https://picasaweb.google.…0liipFm0?feat=directlink



Edited by klppurdy on Nov 17, 2015 - 12:24 PM.

--
Kenneth Purdy
Hobie 16
Nacra 5.2 (2)
Banshee
First Coast, Florida
--

1. Yes but perpendicular to hulls, works fine. Just set one or two little loops to attach the blocks, select according to conditions. (I never adjust actually..). Parallel to the hulls should work too.

2. I don't understand what you describe but you need a shroud adjuster, the eye goes between the two plates of the adjuster.

3. I guess you just have to try. If you decide to remove the bar, be aware that what it does is to limit the rotation of the beams, which can be done by other means too.

(2) The shroud does not clip directly to the hull fitting. You need a 10 hole adjuster on each side. This allows mast rake, rig tension, without the shrouds having to be an exact length.
The small fork,(single hole) end of the adjuster connects to the hull fitting with a short clevis pin/ring ding.
The end of the shroud goes inside the long ends of the adjuster, & is held by a second pin.
Pin both sides, & raise mast. Have a helper hang on a trap line,pulling mast to one side. Now move that pin down a hole or two to tension the rig. I keep a small screwdriver handy when doing this on the 5.0, in case you drop the pin in the lake/sand. The screwdriver allows you to quickly "safe" the mast.
Look in the assembly manual,(the newer one that has a birds eye photo of two guys sailing) Item 42 shows how it all rigs.

If you don't have the manuals, click on the PDF icon , that will allow you to download the entire book.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures?g2_itemId=35217
It is cheaper to have a thimble on both ends of the shroud, vs a thimble at top, & and swaged eye at bottom, but the white rubber sleeve that slides down to cover the fittings will not slide over a thimble.



Edited by Edchris177 on Nov 20, 2015 - 02:38 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--