I'm looking for a righting bag to help me right my Nacra 5.8 solo.

I noticed on E-bay some from Colorado bag company,

one is single layer the other double.


and a cheaper and smaller bag from racedaytramp.

I already know the colorado bag company has a good reputation, but i'm curious if anyone has experience with the single vs. double layer, and if the double layer is worth it. I feel that this bag is bigger than i will need (i'm 180 very athletic), so a bit of leakage won't make a bit of difference. Am i wrong here and is the small up charge worth it in the long run?

The cheaper smaller bag from racedaytramp i think would be much easier to handle, but may not be quite enough to help me get my boat up with complete confidence, i think 80lbs is the right amount of weigth, but i'm skeptical that it would be 80lbs of water once i pull it up.

I've read mixed reviews on the Murrays bags and the big bag seems excessively large for my needs. i'd like to keep it smaller and more manageable.

any experience with these bags or righting a 5.8 solo?

Thanks for the advice

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1987 Nacra 5.8
1978 Isotope (sold)
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I have the Colorado Big Bag. I'm pretty sure it is only single layer, it doesn't leak much, but that is not the issue. You rarely get the bag more than 3/4 full. As you attempt to fill it the boat usually drifts over it & when you pull it up, it is never totally full.
If the wind is 20 mph, I can solo right a 5.7 Nacra by just using a full plank position. (I'm 170lb). As the wind drops, I need more & more extra bag weight.
I don't know how I managed it, but I tipped the 5.7 in about 3mph once, & I needed every drop I could get in that bag to right it.
you will need some form of purchase system to hoist the Big Bag up, & hold it, while you get the line over your shoulder, then hike out.
I stow the block/cleat & line that attaches to the righting line inside the ba., then roll it up & secure to a hiking strap. Doesn't take much room.
I like having extra weight available, during a crash, you might crunch a rib or something, & not be able to use your full athletic capabilities.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

I carry 2 bags (i have found 1 isn't enough at times)
1 is a murray's bag, the other was custom built by a sail loft
as Ed mentioned, you need a block system to help hoist 100 lbs of water as well

Thanks, I'll look into a big bag.

And i'm planning to rig up a block system, I've found some pictures on here so once i get the bag i'll work on the next piece of the puzzle!

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1987 Nacra 5.8
1978 Isotope (sold)
--

This is the perfect block system for righting bags

http://www.murrays.com/01-3273.html

I use the biggest Colorado righting bag on my 21SE with block system (from older boat main blocks) and shroud extenders. I climb up on the high side of capsized boat, pull two quick pins and my shroud length increases by maybe 36" or so and the weight of the high hull is now assisting in the righting of capsized boat. Once this happening you can somewhat chill.

I get my large righting bag out and attach it's block to long painter line tied off at dolphin striker post and thrown over high hull. Now fill that righting bag as full as possible and easily pull full righting bag out of water and now lean out on righting line and watch out for boat landing on your head. I have my crew grab a series of handles made from an extra line ran through the center lacing grommets with vinyl tubing act like grab handles. These handles are an easy target to grab a hold of and help keep the boat from rolling over again.....

Now comes the scarier part of quickly climbing on the boat and getting the crew to grab a trapeze handle to pull tension on mast while I retract the shroud and put the two pins in....

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Bill 404 21SE
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couple comments on this:
1. Great idea with the "under tramp handles"! I have seen many capsized boats re-capsized themselves during righting (flipping over the other way)

2 - be VERY careful when tying off to a dolphin striker. IF the line slips down the striker at all, and you put 100lb or so of water/stress on it... you risk damage (and if undetected, you could destroy your rig if you sail away). DS's are designed to take Top-down stresses - they have very compromised strength at any other angle

I personally tie off to my mast ball. It is much hardier than my DS

3. no one has mentioned this on this thread but...(nor asked) but a KEY to righting a boat with as little haste as possible is to drop an anchor asap after capsizing. having an anchor set will a. automatically get your bows into the wind b. eliminate the risk of your boat getting away from you (i.e. in heavy winds a boat on it's side is almost impossible to catch) or c. drifting into a new hazard (into a channel, sea-wall, other boat) d. almost eliminate any chance of your boat powering up and sailing away from you (or dragging you via your righting line) once you have righted your boat

YMMV

bill40421SE

I use the biggest Colorado righting bag on my 21SE with block system (from older boat main blocks) and shroud extenders. I climb up on the high side of capsized boat, pull two quick pins and my shroud length increases by maybe 36" or so and the weight of the high hull is now assisting in the righting of capsized boat. Once this happening you can somewhat chill.

I get my large righting bag out and attach it's block to long painter line tied off at dolphin striker post and thrown over high hull. Now fill that righting bag as full as possible and easily pull full righting bag out of water and now lean out on righting line and watch out for boat landing on your head. I have my crew grab a series of handles made from an extra line ran through the center lacing grommets with vinyl tubing act like grab handles. These handles are an easy target to grab a hold of and help keep the boat from rolling over again.....

Now comes the scarier part of quickly climbing on the boat and getting the crew to grab a trapeze handle to pull tension on mast while I retract the shroud and put the two pins in....

Edited by MN3 on May 12, 2016 - 12:28 PM.

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And i'm planning to rig up a block system, I've found some pictures on here so once i get the bag i'll work on the next piece of the puzzle!

What MN3 posted is close what I use.

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These handles are an easy target to grab a hold of and help keep the boat from rolling over again..... icon_confused

Thats a good idea, there is no centre lacing on the Nacra tramp. So far we have been able to sort of Tarzan inwards & grab the V brace strap as the boat falls down onto the water.

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I get my large righting bag out and attach it's block to long painter line tied off at dolphin striker post and thrown over high hull.

I find it useful to have everything attached & ready to deploy pre flip. I once P Poled the 5.0 fairly close to a lee shore. The GPS showed 4 minutes from flip to moving again.
I use the knotted line shown in above photo. Flip your boat in controlled conditions & place a knot where you need it to hike in plank position. Have another knot where you need the upper block of righting bag to be, then tie bag just above that knot. That will prevent it from slipping down the line.
I then stuff the righting line into the bag, (I leave bitter end secured around DS at mast base) along with tackle, roll it up & secure to forward end of hiking strap. After flipping, release main/jib sheet/traveler. stand on hull near front crossbeam & undo your bag secure strap,(velcro), & toss the whole works over the hull. You are now ready to fil & hoist bag, get shoulder in front of bag & hike out.
Make sure the bag is secured, they sink pretty fast.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

I keep my painter line in a zipper pouched that attached under the tramp right next to my dolphin striker. It is tied to the dolphin striker at the top just under the forward cross bar. Once capsized, I pass this painter line around the mast base and over the high side. It has a factory loop on it's end that my righting bag snaps in a hurry.

So yes I do use the dolphin striker but with the line pass around the mast ball base...this prevents that painter line for sliding down the dolphin and put the stress there and other stress on the high hull where the line runs down to my righting bag.

Just for full disclosure, I did capsize last season once but before that I haven't flipped it in maybe 15 years. I purchased the boat new in 1989 at a boat show and have flipped it several times the first few years but learn not to. My capsized last year was from my own foolishness terrorizing my neighbor who was my crew.

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Bill 404 21SE
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If you purchase the large righting bag from the Colorado Bag Co. be sure to purchase their large zipper pouch to keep it in. They make very nice sail bags too.

--
Bill 404 21SE
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that is one of the best reasons to flip!

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My capsized last year was from my own foolishness terrorizing my neighbor who was my crew.

Try this....http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=44504

Try this...."http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=44504"