That is probably the most in depth re-build ever done! GAMICK has an album here where he built a neglected 5.2 into a great looking boat, you're going a magnitude deeper. I have done a 5.7, & a 5.0, but not as deep as you re going.A few things to help reassembly.
To re-attach the traveler track, easy job, those holes on the bottom are your friends. The holes will accommodate a thin wall socket/extension. Plug the socket with a bit of masking tape, leave just enough to fit the nut flush with the end of the socket. The nut will stick, & be easy to start.
The compression sleeve inside the front beam. Push a bent stick through that sleeve right now, as a keeper, else you will have to tape the sleeve to a batten, or long stick, insert in the beam, then get a friend to push a stick, or the DS rod through. I changed a DS rod on my 5.7, this might give you some ideas.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures?g2_itemId=73301
When you re-attach the V brace bar, do up the innermost bolt first, then the middle one, then outside bolt. If done in a different order, they get in the way of your box end wrench when trying to do up the inside one.
To get those bolts out of the beam, double, or triple nut them. Turn 1 or 2 nuts onto the exposed end, & snug them against each other. Then turn 3rd one down, put a 6pt socket just onto top nut & turn. It will break the bolt loose. Usually you only need 2 nuts. You can also heat the aluminum with a propane torch, play it just around the perimeter. The aluminum will heat/expand faster then the SS bolt. Tapping with a hammer as you turn will help. You could also have a helper simultaneously turn the head of the bolt inside the beam.
When replacing them, again, masking tape on one side of a box end wrench to keep the bolt pushed upwards, allowing you to tighten the nut with a socket. (Good mechanics always turn the nut vs the bolt).
I would humbly suggest that when drilling rivets, don't use a bigger drill than the rivet shank,(7/32 for a 3/16 shank). This results in damaging the material just under the rivet head when you drill through it, as can be seen on the clam cleat you drilled. Use a drill 1 size smaller than the rivet, then use a pin punch to knock the shank through. For large rivets drill them almost through the head, then insert the other end of a same sized drill bit into the hole, & snap the head off. This comes from hanging out in our aircraft engineering shop, & seeing thousands of rivets drilled. It is a major no-no to damage the sheet aluminum surface, because the new rivet heads won't have a flush surface to mate to, compromising strength.
Edited by Edchris177 on May 19, 2016 - 12:15 AM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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