Anyone have any feedback to share after replacing the original Nacra Pivmatic with the CL257 Clamcleat Auto-Release Racing Mini? Is it durable? Does it function as well as the original Pivmatic?
Kip, I think if you have an older generation Nacra, go for it. I looked at them, in hand, & they seem pretty decent. I can't see longevity being an issue.
I was going to buy them, but it turned out the guys in Carpenteria had a couple of the original pivmatics on a shelf, so I bought them as spares.
If you are in a bind, PM me, I might have an extra brand new one i can part with.
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap --
Both work well and durability is not a problem with either device. If the old style is still serviceable, save your money. My old 18 Square (1981) still has its original set.
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap --
Thanks for information. One of the ears broke at the pin. I will use my drimmel to shorten the piece and drill new pin holes, but I ordered the new part just in case this doesn't work...I'll have a spare if it does. BTW Murray's wants $60 now for the old style pivmatic.
My N5.0 has the original Pivmatics which seem to do the job, but the break away force required seems a bit excessive. I have seen a few boats with the CL 257 and really like that the break away force is adjustable.
-- Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC --
Update: I replaced the original pivmatics with the CL257 and they work well. However it is worth noting that the CL257 does not include a fairlead (line keeper) for the rudder pulldown line. Also, the pivot pin for the old pivmatic served as a stop for my rudder pullup shock cord. Solution: I took a couple of used fairleads (eyestraps) from some old swivel cleats and bent the legs to wrap around the tiller arm and reused the old pivmatic pin to secure the failead in the same location as the original pivmatic. I drilled new holes and mounted the CL257 a couple inches forward from this location.
Thanks for the update. I'm just now being confronted with the same issue converting my Nacra 5.0. For me, the CL257 needs to be positioned relative to the old pivmatic hinge pin such that the shackle/strap placed there as a line keeper will engage my bowline and prevent line slack (rudder up position) and potential
line jam. Film at 11.
I saw this setup on an Astus 16.5 trimaran. Someone drilled the CL257 and put a piece of 1/8" shock cord across the line as a keeper. I don't think that would work well for me, but might for other folks.
-- Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC --
I run them and yea just drill some holes in the base or the cleat and run some line over the lock down rope to keep it within reach. Amazes me how a lot of people don't know about these. I talked to a bunch of A cat guys that had the standard cleat for rudder lock down complaining about how they get jammed if the rudder touches anything. I showed them what I was running and they ordered some right away.